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Sinisterdragon
June 2nd, 2005, 07:20 AM
Hi all,

I have recently gotten hold of a T1000 XE XT laptop. I have problems with booting, I suspect that the hard drive was formated. I should be able too boot off the Fdd. However pluging in the Fdd brings no joy. I have a working DOS disk, but I get no access light. I'm not sure if it's the floppy drive of the hardware in the Laptop. Unfautunately, the Fdd is a custom Toshiba job. Does anyone know if it's possible to wire up a "standard" Fdd with a converter. I want to be able to check if it's the computer or the Fdd thats at fault here. Likewise if anyone knows of any coman falts with these machines regards the Fdd I would apreciate it.

Thanks all

:twisted:

NathanAllan
June 3rd, 2005, 01:09 AM
Have you taken a look at the harddrive? Is yours the model that has the hdd in a little box that comes out? Check the cables and make sure everything is contacting right. I can't comment on the fdd, I never had one with mine. I can only suggest trying to find a different fdd.

Sinisterdragon
June 3rd, 2005, 02:20 AM
Yes, Thats the one, It comes out in a nice little box, It seems to be connected correctly... Hdd seeks and makes some "good" grinding noises like it is trying to do SOMETHING..... In any case if I can test the Fdd or make sure the floppy bootup hardware and software are working that would be nice...

:twisted:

patscc
June 3rd, 2005, 12:04 PM
Do you have a T1000 handy to swap out the floppy drive ? I think the external one on the XE and the internal one on the 1000 are the same.

If, because it's so obvious, but not obvious, you're already aware of it, forgive me, but is your boot floppy formatted to 720 k ? The 1000 series didn't do 1.44 floppies.

If it's 720k, pull it apart and see if it's a belt-driven 3.5, if yes, replace the belt.

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 3rd, 2005, 05:58 PM
There is something they didn't mention in the manual... 720k?? I'll have to format a 720k disk and try again. I'm not sure it will make much diferance as I'm not getting an access light, but at lest when I get things sorted I'll then be able to read it... Can you format a 720k disk from windows?? never tried such a thing before.. might be time to fire up one of my vintage systems again and just do it from there...

As for belt drivern?? I glad to say the belt seems to be in goodcondition, and still attatched as it seems it should be... Which is good, because I would hate to have to try and replace it, looks like the only easy way to do that wold be to pull the whole Fdd apart...

:twisted:

Terry Yager
June 3rd, 2005, 06:05 PM
I dunno if you can do it directly from win or not. I usually just drop out to a DOS prompt and format using the /f:720 parameter.

--T

patscc
June 3rd, 2005, 06:11 PM
XP won't format a 720k disk. Older versions should be able to.
Put some opaque tape over the media sense hole on the floppy (this is the one across from the write-protect hole)
You probably want to do this on a vintage machine, since I'm not sure T1000's will boot with a WIn95/98 style boot disk.

Depending on your version of DOS,
try
format a: /f:720 /s

which is format floppy in a, format to 720k, transfer system.

If you have a 1.44 floppy, and don't tape the media sense hole, depending on your bios, you might get a 'track 0 bad, media unusable' error, which is why you tape the hole. Unless, of course, you've still got 720k disks laying around.

What happens if you just let it finish it's boot attempt ? Do you get any error messages ?

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 3rd, 2005, 06:25 PM
I'm trying think how long it is since I had to type that... I was going to look up some old DOS books as a refresher, but now you have saved me the hassle... I might get out some of the older DOS machines anyway, might be fun to have a bit of a play again and check too see that they are still functional...

Now that I think about it I have a T1600 buried deep in the bowels of the storage shed thats suposed to be fully functional... Maybe its about time I dug that out and blew the dust off so to speak... If memory serves me correctly it has an interenal 1.44 Fdd... should be a snap to get a disk formatted from that...

As for whats happens when I try to boot the machine... It performs the RAM test, you can hear the Hdd trying to do something, then it just stops... No error mesage comes up... I fget a Hdd access light come up, but no Access light on the Fdd... Which hopefully means the Fdd is haveing some trouble and not the machine... However I dont have a second drive to test it with of course....

:twisted:

patscc
June 3rd, 2005, 06:27 PM
It sounds like the IDE bus is being locked by the HD.
If you're not scared of of opening her up, open up, disconnect HD interface cable, and try again. See if you get some sort of error message, or even better, if she then tries to boot from the floppy.

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 4th, 2005, 05:00 AM
Nope. The Hdd contector is soldered directly to the mother board. Removing the HDD doesn't help either, the computer wont start at all.... It must have an internal wiring check to make sure there is a Hdd contected.... Any other ideas???

:twisted:

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 05:55 AM
Well, let's go back a step.
Does she give you a successful memory count when you fire her up ?
Other suggestion, try pulling out the battery pack, if it's old, it might be sucking to much current to charge, causing problems.
patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 4th, 2005, 06:02 AM
Yes, things seem to stop after the memory count.

:twisted:

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 06:10 AM
How long have you let her sit after the memory count ?
patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 4th, 2005, 06:55 AM
Ah... I have never left it on more than everal minutes once it was obvious that things wern't working... Now that I have, after about like ten minutes or so up comes the error mesage:

Error Loading operating system : 80

So i'd say it's prety obvious whats going on now... Either the Hdd is faulty, or it has beend formated as i suspected... This still doesn't explain why it doesn't go to the Fdd though.. As I said not getting the Fdd access light coming up... The BIOS is set correctly to boot from the Fdd if necasary...

:twisted:

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 07:13 AM
How do you get into your BIOS ? I have the list from Toshiba, but have never actually been able to get into BIOS with any key-combination listed. Of course. this is on a 1200XE, but still... Do you hold the key on boot, after boot, what ?

Are you sure the HD is wired to the mobo ? Usually, it's just a 40 or 44 pin header soldered into the board, and then the HD plugs into that header.

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 4th, 2005, 07:27 AM
On the T1000 XE, the Key combination is (Fn, Esc).. the Fn key is to the left of the space bar and the Esc key is on the top left corner... It's a bit hard to get into the BIOS section, but it seems if you hold the keys down slightly before or just after the Memory test the BIOS display comes up in the lower right hand corner of the screen. You have to do it correctly as the same key combination also cloes the little box... So if you press at the wrong time or for too long, the box doesn't open or closes straight away... It usually takes several start ups to get it right...

I have taken the box apart and Yep, the conector for the Hdd is hard wired to the mother board... Inside the hard drive box itself it also seems to be hard wired.. and removing the Hdd doesn't help cause the machine wont even start up if I do that...

:twisted:

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 07:41 AM
You actually get a real BIOS, and not just that funny little popup with battery capacity, and that let's you toggle betweem boot and resume ?
patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 4th, 2005, 07:51 AM
No, Just that funny little "Pop Up Window"... Thats what the manual seems to indicate severes as the BIOS...

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 08:00 AM
Yeah, that's no good. You can always get that. I bet if you look at the bottom edge of the 'esc' key keycap, it'll say 'popup' in blue. Join the ranks of those that have never been able to follow the Toshiba instructions to break into BIOS. I'm begging to think the instructions are bogus.

On the popup, though, see if the psrt where you can switch resume-boot is set to boot.

Other than that, I'll get back later, I need to pull mine apart, because I'm juat about that sure the HD can be disconnected. Give me a day or so. If changing the popup menu option to 'boot' fixes it, by the way, post back so I don't needlessly tear my poor abused T apart.
patscc

Terry Yager
June 4th, 2005, 08:20 AM
Who's gonna tear T apart?

--T

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 08:28 AM
No, not *that* T, a T1000 XE or T1200 XE, whatever I can find first, to refresh my memory on how the internal HD is connected. It's mine, and I do plan on putting her together when I'm done.
patscc

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 08:32 AM
Update on the 'funny little popup'
It will actually let you change the amount of charge in the battery.
Cool, huh, and all this time, I thought I had to rebuild battery packs that have failed. But now, thanks to the handy T-popup, I can just dial-in the charge I think the pack ought to have!!! Progres...
patscc

patscc
June 4th, 2005, 04:01 PM
Sinisterdragon wrote:
I have taken the box apart and Yep, the conector for the Hdd is hard wired to the mother board... Inside the hard drive box itself it also seems to be hard wired.. and removing the Hdd doesn't help cause the machine wont even start up if I do that...


Okay, now I'm confused. From what you said, it seems as if you have the ability to disconnect the HD after all( 'removing the Hdd doesn't help' ) ?
If you can disconnect it, disconnect it, boot. and wait. after 10 minutes or so, you should get "Please insert system disk". Try that.

The external floppy, are you using the one that hooks to the special floppy port, or the one that hooks to the printer/floppy (25-pin D-sub) connector ?

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 8th, 2005, 06:09 AM
You have to have one of these machines in front of you to understand what I mean, I think. The Hdd is encased inside a little box. This little box has a conector on the outside that conects directly into the Hdd conector that is hard wired to the T1000XE motherboard. If you open up this Hdd box you see that the conector is hard wired to the Hdd via a flexable PCB.. The T1000XE will not even start up without the Hdd box being conected to the system.. There seems to be no way to disassemble the Hdd box further, and no point as everything seems to be hard wired anyway....

I have one of the little Fdds that conect the the actual Fdd port on the side of the T1000XE.. not the parrallel port..

Plus now I'm looking at the battery volage and gues what?? I would say the batteries are pretty stuffed as well... The little light on the machine says they are charged, until you disconect the power then it says they are not... According to the writing on the outside of the case the battery voltage should be 7.2V... I read it as 6.4V, quite a bit less... Any hint on how to open up the battery case so I can replace the batteries with some new ones would be apreciated...


:twisted:

NathanAllan
June 8th, 2005, 03:26 PM
I never tried to take the battery apart. It looked like it had some kind of single cell setup, so I didn't even try. But if I WERE to break it open I would have had to cut it.

Also, I was able to disassemble to box totally and get the hdd out totally. The wires aren't hardwired to it, you just have to be VERY careful when you take it off the drive. IIRC, the flat cable is lightly soldered to a small piece of silicone board that attaches to the drive. That is if I remember correctly. I got rid of mine cause it had a bad power board inside, and when it was on a ps it would flicker on and off intermittently. I made a battery for it from dustbuster battieries but otherwise that was the end of my experimenting. I'd love to get another though...

patscc
June 8th, 2005, 08:31 PM
I'm glad someone remembered the HD comes out, and how. I thought I was going nuts, and not finding mine wasn't helping any.
The battery pack should have 6 1.2 cells inside, they're oriented horizontally, three on each side, and they're the "fat" AA cells, I can't remember what they're called, they sort of look like a AA on stearoids. You should be bacle to see the seams, and with a thin stiff blade, and lot's of time and care, pry it open( you might sort of wreck it). Some of them have glue or stick-tape that glues the cells to case and lid, sort of like old HP battery packs.

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 9th, 2005, 01:17 AM
Got the battery pack open, once I found the right spot and method it was actually surprisingly easy... I see what you mean about "fat" AA cells... Good decription.. :lol: ... I have four cells at 1.2V, and 2 Cells faulty, one at .6V and one at Zero... There are two components inside the box, One has IP305AV 70C on it, Thermal fuse??? not sure what the other component is, could be anything, about the only thing I can read is 250Y~ but I assume it is a fusable link?? I have seen these some where before, but can't remember where off hand... Any idea??

In any case might look for a replacement set and see how much in total... not sure I want to spend too much though unless I can resolve the bootup problem...

I'll have to look at the batteries for the T1600 as well, and see if they are O.K....

:twisted:

NathanAllan
June 9th, 2005, 12:32 PM
If they are the same batteries that I have, I know where you can get cells for that pack.

http://www.sciplus.com/category.cfm?subsection=13&category=134

If that doesn't take you right to the grab bag, just do a search for "grab bag" and it'll come up. Those are the same dustbuster batteries that are used (I call em that, heh heh). Larger around AA sized, but the same length, about.

Now I kinda wish I hadn't gotten rid of mine. Didn't even think it.

Sinisterdragon
June 9th, 2005, 01:57 PM
Thanks for the link, I'll see how much they are in Australia first, at least I know somewhere I might be able to get something similar though.. Thats Allways good...

:twisted:

Terry Yager
June 9th, 2005, 03:12 PM
Yeah, good link! I've been looking for sources of cheap batteries.

--T

patscc
June 9th, 2005, 05:56 PM
'Bout the cheapest I've found, their stuff is okay,the tab stuff is sometimes packs that have been cut at the tab, so as long as you can either spot-weld, or solder quickly, you're fine.

http://www.smcelectronics.com/BATT.HTM

Or, for good, new stuff,

http://www.megabatteries.com/items.asp?cat_id=24&se=g

Or, for whatever the hell the current catalogue has,

www.allelectronics.com

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 9th, 2005, 11:27 PM
Huh... $15.00 Aus for ONE 1.2V NiMH Bat of the apropriate size.. thats $90 for a complete set for the computer.... Unless I can get the Boot up problem sorted it looks like this computer will just go into storage... At least I have a T100XE I supose...

:twisted:

patscc
June 10th, 2005, 11:56 AM
NiCad, not NiMh
Sorry, forgot you where in AU.
Try here:

http://www.batterypower.com.au/nicad.htm
they seem cheaper up your way.

You don't have to use the exact size, by the way. Just put in AA-nicad's or something reasonably close. So you won't get the specified runtime off batteries. Who cares ?

patscc

Terry Yager
June 10th, 2005, 12:45 PM
You don't have to use the exact size, by the way. Just put in AA-nicad's or something reasonably close. So you won't get the specified runtime off batteries. Who cares ?

patscc

I tried that with some NiMH cells, the ones I used were a little smaller. I expected a somewhat shorter running time, but now I'm only getting 15 minutes to a charge I was hoping for a couple hours).

--T

patscc
June 10th, 2005, 02:19 PM
Are you replacing NiCad's with NiMh ? That's a no-no. The NiMh hava a different charge/discharge curve.

The T1000ZE bat packs, I think, are rated at 7.2 volt, 1700 mAh, which means it uses 6 1.2volt, 1700 mAh cells.

You can get 4/5 AA NiCad's rated at 1200 mAh reasonably cheap, and that should( assuming the cells are good ) give you 1200/1700 * 100%, or around 70% of rated run-time. But that's if you're replacing NiCad with NiCad. If switch families, all bet's are off.

The generic AA NiCad is usually rated at around 600mAh, and using those, of course, would only give you 600/1700 * 100%, or around 35% percent of rated capacity.

patscc

Terry Yager
June 10th, 2005, 02:39 PM
No, replaced NiMH with same, just physically smaller cells. Same voltage, but slightly lower amperage. IIRC about 1.7 mAh vs. 2.0. I thought they might not be taking a full charge, but testing them shows the right voltage.

--T

patscc
June 10th, 2005, 03:58 PM
Odd. If they're NiMH, is the pack a 'smart' pack ? If it's a smart pack, the controller might be flagging it as 'empty' before it's really empty, since the discharge curve is going to be different for the 1700 mAh vs. 2000 mAh cells.

I ran into the opposite problem once, I replaces the NiMH in a Powerbook, I think it was a 540C, and I splurged and got higher-capacity ones, figureing I might as well soup it up, and didn't get any noticable improvement, so I went ahead an blamed the chip in the smart pack and called it a day.

patscc

Terry Yager
June 10th, 2005, 04:08 PM
Yeah, "smart" all right. I'm gonna pull the cells and install 'em where they'll do some good.

--T

Sinisterdragon
June 10th, 2005, 05:43 PM
I just assumed the Batteries in the T1000XE where NiMh. How long have NiMh been around??? If the cells are NiCad that would be HEAPS cheaper from what I have seen... How can I be sure of what ios in the system???

:twisted:

patscc
June 10th, 2005, 05:49 PM
Look at the pack closely. There might be a recycling sticker on it that would tell you. Or, google up the original Toshiba part number for it.
They're NiCad on a T1000, T1100+ , T1200EX, T1600, and that's all I can get my hands on at the moment, so I'd bet the 1200XE is NiCad as well.

That, and the Toshiba 1000XE spec sheet states it's a NiCad pack. If you PM me with an email, I'll send you the PDF.

patscc

Sinisterdragon
June 10th, 2005, 05:55 PM
Thats Kewl... Thanks, I'll look into buying some NiCad to suite then.. Besides, then i'll have a full set of Nicads to test some of the other equipment I have that I know uses them.....

:twisted:

Terry Yager
June 10th, 2005, 07:04 PM
I just assumed the Batteries in the T1000XE where NiMh. How long have NiMh been around??? If the cells are NiCad that would be HEAPS cheaper from what I have seen... How can I be sure of what ios in the system???


_________________
Hey, Just because i'm Evil doesn't make me a bad person you know.....

http://www.pbase.com/sinisterdragon

NiCads were common up till about '94, when NiMH started to become the dominant force (although they actually appeared somewhat earlier).

--T

patscc
June 10th, 2005, 07:16 PM
I think the final death-knell to NiCad was, aside from the 'memory-effect', which in later ones was actually almost non-existant, the 'Cadmium' part.

Cadmium, like Mercury, persistent, bad for the environment, a popular cause.

MimH, they smartly names Nickel-Metal-Hydride, much less politically offensive, for who can tell what the heck the 'Metal' part of NiMh is, anyway.

Even they're going by the way side. Li-Ion is the current fad. Maybe the next gen will have something really odd, like a McRib-fueled fuel-cell, or something. Or energy derived from bacteria eating tobacco. Now there's a project for PhillipMorris to sink their money into.

patscc

patscc
June 10th, 2005, 07:46 PM
Update on the Toshiba bat-packs.

I pulled a T1600 bat-pack apart, for the heck of it, and I have a couple of dead ones.

1. In some spots, the seams between the lid and package appear either glued or heat-welded. It might be good to use a sharp Xacto knife or smoething to score the seams well before you pull it apart.

2. Rectangular NiCad's. Dig that, like, totally square.Appearantly some genius at Toshiba figured out for tiling a 3-dimensional rectangular enclosure with a regular pattern, nothing beats a rectangle/cube.

3. In mine, in between internal leads, there's a gizmo in heat-shrink tubing which I bet is a fuse. So, if there's one in your's, disconnect the cells from it, take an Ohmeter to it, and if it indicates open( i.e. ultra-high resistance ), replace it along with the cells.

4. If you see white powder in there, and touch it, you will die. Seriosously, wash your hands afterwards.


patscc

Terry Yager
June 10th, 2005, 07:57 PM
Leakage don't always equal bad batteries, depending on the type of NiCad. Some are vented, and might leak once or twice and still take a good charge. They're self-sealing sometimes, after they have leaked. I just got a couple of computers in today's mail, and both batteries are showing signs of leakage. One took a full charge, and the other is quite dead, so it'll be a good candidate for re-building.

--T

patscc
June 10th, 2005, 08:24 PM
No, I'm talking serious white powder here, like FBI-attention quantaties.
Terry makes an excellent point, though. You should always try to charge the buggers out of circuit.

Worn-out ones suck current like nobodies business. A cheap way to deal with this is to hook a small light bulb roughly equal to what you're looking at( If you're doing a Tosh bat pack, use a 6-volt, 100mA bulb, or a bulb from a 4-cell stick flashlight. Don't use the headlight from your truck) in series with your power supply and cell. If you've got it right, the bulb will perhaps glow briefly, and then dim. If the bulb stays lit for an extended period, cell is shorted, forget it. If bulb stays lit for about 10 minutes or so, you have a good shot at recovery( which is what's happening as you wait )

The lamp acts as a current-sensitve, time-sensitive in-rush current limiter, low-tech, but it works.
To get technical, for the lamp, you're shooting for a bulb whose nominal current is about 70% of the max charge current of the bat pack you're dealing with. This can be hard to find. So wing it.

That said, if you're rebuilding a pack, do your self a favour, see if you can mod it to work like a battery copartment. You know, load button-top cells when they wear out. The trick to this is you need a spring (ball-point pen spring, widen out the top couple of coils)
Or, if the physical layout doesn't permit, perhaps some single-cell battery holders, strung together, will fit. Anything is better than trying to solder wire to a battery.

patscc

Terry Yager
June 10th, 2005, 09:56 PM
I usually try zapping shorted-out NiCads before junking them. Most of the time they come back good as new. This technique also works pretty good for cells that have taken a reverse-charge.
Actually, I'm getting pretty good at soldering directly to batteries. I've only ever had one blow up on me, and that was many years ago. Lucky for me, it was a very small cell...no harm, no foul. The trick is to rough-up the terminal with a file or sandpaper first, just enough to remove the plating and get down to the brass, which takes the solder very quickly, with a lot less heat involved.

--T

patscc
June 11th, 2005, 06:46 AM
Hey, that's a great tip, never occured to me the top and bottom caps might just be plated. Can't wait to try it. So how does the NiCad rate in terms of 'pop-power' ? Sort of like an electrolytic cap of roughly the same physical dimension ? Or louder or softer ?

patscc

Terry Yager
June 11th, 2005, 07:43 AM
Hey, that's a great tip, never occured to me the top and bottom caps might just be plated. Can't wait to try it. So how does the NiCad rate in terms of 'pop-power' ? Sort of like an electrolytic cap of roughly the same physical dimension ? Or louder or softer ?

patscc

Actually, it was a small mercury button-cell that blew. It was somewhat louder than a 4.7uf tantalum cap, but nowhere near as loud as a 12v, car battery, or an old-fashioned ignition coil, both of which I've also had occaision to blow up.

--T

NathanAllan
June 13th, 2005, 11:25 PM
I'd love to get another though...

All hail T'k Nolojie! I was pining for my old, dead and gone 100XE and got a T1200 at goodwill for $10! WOOHOO! I haven't had a chance to do anything with it much but pop out the battery box and shake the screws out of it :? but the screen looks good. The rest of the laptop has seen better days. It seems also to have been used extensively. The ports have bends on them but only slightly, the modem pins are bent as if someone just pulled the wire out of it. The plastic around the screen is a littl ewarped but I think I can work with it if it'll work with me.

And I am gonna test the batteries and replace the cells whenever I can. They look like sub C cells but I don't know if I'll be able to get 2200mAh out of dustbuster batteries.

NathanAllan
June 18th, 2005, 11:02 AM
Update on my progress with the T1200.

It works. My stepson's gamecube has a power supply that outputs 12V @ 3.25A and has a plug that has two nice little holes that are great for sticking wires into.

The fdd seems to work fine. It reads all the 720kb disks I can find, writes too.

The HDD is *not* IDE. I took a better look at the spec sheet and it's MFM. And it is not working right. It won't spin up and dos 3.3 won't recognize it. Does anyone here have a 32mb or less hdd they can part with? I have sent off emails to a couple of dealers and am waiting for a response but don't thing they'll be positive. Or they will be positively overpriced.

The cmos battery holds a charge, though (under test right now; so far it's been an hour since I took it off main power).

The main batteries that I thought were sub-C are really full size C and they're common and very replacable. And so I will have to, since the ones that are in the pack are no good. About 15sec and it goes into hibernation for another 15 and shuts down.

The LCD screen is flawless and lovely.

Keyboard works perfect.

I have looked around and can't find the harddrive setup or a keystroke to take me into the bios of this machine. I found setup1.exe which takes me to all but the hdd. Even lets you set up a ramdisk (neat!). It's possible that the hdd just needs to be set back up.

Any tips from the pros?

Pics: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/rollmeupa20/album?.dir=/d87a

Terry Yager
June 18th, 2005, 04:08 PM
There might not be a hdd setup because the bios is pre-programmed to only recognize one certain kind of drive. That's the case with some of those old laptops. I have managed to install different drives in some of them (sometimes) by using a drive overlay, like DiskManager, by Ontrack. It just has to report the "correct" geometry to the bios.

--T

barryp
June 18th, 2005, 08:09 PM
The HDD is *not* IDE. I took a better look at the spec sheet and it's MFM. And it is not working right. It won't spin up and dos 3.3 won't recognize it. Does anyone here have a 32mb or less hdd they can part with?

What kind of MFM? I assume 3"? I might have a drive..... maybe.

NathanAllan
June 19th, 2005, 09:41 AM
Yep, 3 1/2". I went around to a couple of the goodwills yesterday and couldn't find anything that had one in it.

I got Telix 3.51 and it looks like a winner. I got a runtime error from my main computer when I tried to install it, though. I'll try on the backup next, it'll probably work.

I was also thinking of another way to simulate the dial tone. Can't I use some kind of telephone tester for that? I figure there's no cheaper way to network than modems, tellix looks great for DOS and am downloading it for windows now. I might get these things talking after all, heh heh.

Has anybody tried those serial port to ethernet adapters on older machines? Looks promising...

http://www.hw-group.com/products_en.html#embedded_ethernet

And another note on batteries:

http://store.sundancesolar.com/nicrecbatc.html

Not the highest capacity, but it'll work. Since I need six of them, that's $18, and that makes a cheap laptop battery.

Jason
May 15th, 2008, 08:56 AM
A bit late in the day, but I'm trying to get a Toshiba T1000XE working ( second time having given up a few years ago ).

Batteries - Don't know what type they were but I fitted six NiCd and it seems to work okay.

Hard Disk - Mine's a Conner CP-2024. Definitely IDE not MFM. Definitely 2.5" not 3.5". The box connector is a flat plastic ribbon cable which runs to a PCB which has the socket for the HDD pins. At the HDD end it's a standard 44-pin connector with four pins separate to the rest, as found on most 2.5" IDE's. If the disk is just 'wiped' it should be possible to reformat on any PC using a 3.5" to 2.5" IDE adapter.

zbilly
December 23rd, 2008, 05:51 AM
I've got a Toshiba Dynabook J3100SS which I think is the Japanse version equivalent of T1000XE.

Can you show me how to take the case apart and also the battery pack apart as well? I heard that there are more rechargeable batteries inside the case.




A bit late in the day, but I'm trying to get a Toshiba T1000XE working ( second time having given up a few years ago ).

Batteries - Don't know what type they were but I fitted six NiCd and it seems to work okay.

Hard Disk - Mine's a Conner CP-2024. Definitely IDE not MFM. Definitely 2.5" not 3.5". The box connector is a flat plastic ribbon cable which runs to a PCB which has the socket for the HDD pins. At the HDD end it's a standard 44-pin connector with four pins separate to the rest, as found on most 2.5" IDE's. If the disk is just 'wiped' it should be possible to reformat on any PC using a 3.5" to 2.5" IDE adapter.

xzakox
January 26th, 2009, 04:02 AM
Hi, I just received two T1000 laptops, a T1000le and a T1000xe

Both of them have faulty batteries, but I managed to boot the 'xe', just removing the battery and connecting the terminals to my lab power supply at 7.2V, with a diode to prevent the laptop trying to "charge" my power supply. :-)

But the 'le' refuses to boot. Using the same trick, it just "trys" to start. The lights go on for a fraction of second, the FDD makes a short sound, and then, nothing.

Any ideas?

patscc
January 26th, 2009, 07:45 AM
xzakox, do you have a multimeter ?
patscc

xzakox
January 26th, 2009, 09:42 AM
Sure.

patscc
January 26th, 2009, 01:26 PM
Can you measure the current the T1000LE draws as it's trying to start ?
patscc

xzakox
January 26th, 2009, 03:38 PM
It draws like 0.5A for a fraction of second. But I think it's like the other one I have running (the XE) that draws 0.5-0.7A (without/with hdd activity).

patscc
January 26th, 2009, 04:08 PM
Without tearing it apart, I'd say that the +5V regulator is not regulating.
I don't know of an easy way to check it without tearing it apart. Does anyone have any schematics for it ?
patscc

xzakox
January 27th, 2009, 02:55 PM
I managed to make it work :D
I teared the keyboard apart, and found two faulty capacitors... on the bottom left side, there are lot of electrolytic capacitors, two of them , 120uF, were rusty, with their contacts full of stain and rust from some thing that looked to come out from them. I replaced the capacitors and voila! It worked.
Niceeeeee!
:D

patscc
January 27th, 2009, 03:26 PM
Yay ! Possibly the electrolyte leaking.
patscc

xzakox
January 28th, 2009, 09:31 AM
F*ck! As I said in my previous post, I managed to boot the LE. As the Hard Disk was broken, I tried to boot it from floppy, but It didn't work. I teared apart the floppy drive, and saw that the belt was very lousy, so I cut a little piece from it, and then I glued it back with superglue. It working driving the motor by hand, so I reassembled it and put it in place. While doing this I noticed two another one capacitors leaking chemicals, so I replaced them with new ones.

Since I did this... the laptop is not working again.

When I press the power button, The leds go on, and then I get a long beep from the speaker, the screen turns on for a second with the cursor blinking, but then it turns off.

I checked all the solderings, I checked the main board and I get 5V in some places... It's driving me crazy :-)
If anybody knows something about this, or has some schematics, repair manuals or the like... That will be great.
Tnks.

patscc
January 28th, 2009, 09:35 AM
Have you tried connecting 6 volts to the battery terminals to see what happens ?
If the caps are dying, take a look at the RTC NiCD cell, should be a round yellow thingie behind the parallel port, it might be shorted.
patscc

xzakox
January 28th, 2009, 10:14 AM
Yeah, the battery trick is what i'm doing from the beggining, but you need 7.2V to make it work, if not the battery led complains (goes orange).
The two internal batteries are ok (it has two, one for the rtc and another one for the ram disk I guess).
I don't know what to do, yesterday it worked right... passed ram test, and waited for a boot floppy... several times :P

patscc
January 28th, 2009, 12:30 PM
I think I screwed up. I think the RTC is actually a lithium cell, I can't remember of the top of my head if the other one (long one, right ?) is lithium or a rechargable NiCd.
I had it confused with a Tandy 1100 FD, where it's a 6-volt lead acid, and not a 7.2 volt NiCd.

I pulled out the wrong laptop. I'll try to get back to the storage unit by this weekend and to get a 1000LE to pull apart. That way, maybe I can shoot you some test points and voltages.

Not to ask a dumb question, but are you sure you replaced the caps with the correct ones & put them in the right way ?

Have you tried disconnecting the other two internal batteries ?

patscc

xzakox
January 28th, 2009, 12:38 PM
Forget me, It seems the laptop has a push button on the HD bay, and it has to be pressed for the computer to boot.
It's working now.
I managed to boot MSDOS once with tne fix I made to the floppy drive, but JUST once, the belt is in very bad shape... :P
Anybody knows where to get a floppy drive for this laptop?
Perhaps it's better to make a cable for the external interface...
Tnks for all the help anyway.

patscc
January 28th, 2009, 12:54 PM
Just try getting a new belt. It's probably glazed.
Measure the length (including the part you cut out), derate by about 10% to account for stretch, measure the width, and look up some places that sell VCR & CD-player belts. I don't know your location or I might be able to recommend some.
patscc

ponicke
June 23rd, 2009, 09:23 PM
Hi Folks

I'm working with one of this (T1000XE) anf I am having a Keyboard issue

The Keys: "0" (zero) "-" (dash) "p" "l" semicolon dot do not work :(

I put another keyboard but, no way, the same fault, I think the original keyboard works fine.

The batery pack is out (are there a replacement for the six cells?)

The Disk appears as write protected

trying to wirte a file it says:

write protect error writing drive C
Abort, Retry, Fail ?

Any hint?

Cheers

AP

xzakox
November 16th, 2009, 11:27 AM
Hi guys, I'm working again in this two computers, well, right now with the T1000XE.
I managed to make a cable to connect a standard PC floppy drive to the parallel port/ext floppy connector. I leave the pinout here for you and the way to make it:

You just need an standard PC flat floppy cable, a DB-25 male connector and a floppy drive of course.
Cut away the connector from the mainboard side of the floppy cable, and separate each cable leaving like 2" / 5cm free. Also strip a bit from the end on each wire.
Then you just have to solder following this table:



DB25 Flat Ribbon cable
---- -----------------
1 1
2 8
3 26
4 28
5 30
6 34
10 14
11 10
12 22
13 24
14 2
15 32
16 18
17 20

18 GND (ODDs)
. .
. .
. .
25 GND (ODDs)

Odd wires from flat cable (1,3,5...33) are all GND.
You have to connect them to pins 18..25 on DB-25 connector (all GND also)
I did it soldering two or three on each pin.


Then you have to connect the drive to the A: connector on flat cable (the one with the twisted cables), and to supply, I used a standard PC ATX supply for this. Also you have to run setup10.exe on the T1000XE (on the bios drive) and set the parallel port from printer to FDD-A, save and reboot.
If everything is ok, you can now boot from and use the external drive.

Pictures:

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/864/dscn1674.th.jpg (http://img690.imageshack.us/i/dscn1674.jpg/)

Forget the blue wire in this picture, it was wrong. The toshiba external drive uses a signal that is not present in a standard PC drive, but for normal use it has to be logic 0, so I soldered it to GND like in the table (DB25 pin 1 to wire 1).

http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/3580/dscn1685y.th.jpg (http://img514.imageshack.us/i/dscn1685y.jpg/)



Now, I have a problem. I was trying to install MS-DOS 6.22 on the internal HD, but if I install it and set the bios to boot from HD, it stalls in "starting ms-dos...". If I do a sys c: with the msdos 3.30 that comes in the ROM, it works and boots, but I tried with msdos 6.22 and also with 5.0 and it hangs just there. Weird because both of them boot from floppy.
Any ideas?

Thanks.

xzakox
November 16th, 2009, 01:12 PM
solved,
fdisk /mbr did the trick

tnx