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View Full Version : Building the XTIDE



curtis
June 27th, 2010, 03:41 PM
Well, I got my circuit board in and FINALLY got all the parts from Jameco, Mouser, and Rat Shack.

Looks like I have me a project for the 4th of July weekend! Just after I (hopefully) finish my A+ exam this coming Tuesday (June 29).

I'll post pictures of my progress IF anyone is interested.

hargle
June 27th, 2010, 06:48 PM
good luck!

let us know what happens and if you have any problems. There's about 200 of them out there in the world now, so I suspect just about every possible problem has been bumped into by now, hopefully!

per
June 28th, 2010, 12:23 PM
Mine worked for a while, but not it seems like some soldering joints has broken free. I have about 5 ajacent bytes missing per 50 bytes that is being read. Perhaps I should try to get myself a more decent soldering iron...

Maverick1978
June 28th, 2010, 01:49 PM
Question for you guys who have built the XT-IDE... Do you end up having to order some of the electronic pieces in high multiples? In going through the build list at Jameco, several pieces must be ordered in lots of 10/20/100, etc, yet we only need 1 or 2 of these to solder in per card.

Meanwhile, Mouser seems to be about double the price of Jameco on many of these pieces, but also lets you order in lesser multiples - but the cost per unit increase rather negates the differences in ordering from Mouser over Jameco.

I'm not against having a few spare parts, but if I could shave the cost of the parts to build the two PCBs I ordered down by $5-10, I'd be quite happy. And in case anyone's wondering, I've never ordered electronic parts from an electronics store before, so I was surprised at some of the minimum orders on these - and this may just be quite common and expected to you guys who work with this kind of thing alot :)

-Mav

Agent Orange
June 28th, 2010, 02:03 PM
Hey Maverick!

Talk about shaving costs - check this URL out:

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=8-bit+ide+controller&_sacat=See-All-Categories

You'll look long and hard before you beat the deal that you just got courtesy of the Vintage Forum crew.

Chromedome45
June 28th, 2010, 04:25 PM
Heck $95.00 is actually pretty cheap compared to some I have seen!

hargle
June 28th, 2010, 05:56 PM
Mine worked for a while, but not it seems like some soldering joints has broken free. I have about 5 ajacent bytes missing per 50 bytes that is being read. Perhaps I should try to get myself a more decent soldering iron...

yes. or clean it off to make sure there is a good heat transfer. I suggest hitting every pin on every socket (well, probably not the ROM socket, since you'd know pretty quick if that ever failed). Just heat up the pin enough to push it around inside the hole. That should reflow the solder enough to make a new connection. Of the couple boards that I had problems with, that did the trick and it's pretty easy to do.

Agent Orange
June 28th, 2010, 06:30 PM
One of the secrets to a good solder joint is to keep your soldering iron clean, and don't let the flux and other crude to build up on the tip. Tin your tip and wipe the excess of with an old, slightly damp rag. Apply heat from the tip evenly and try not to burn into the pcb, wiring, etc. The result of the solder job should appear to be "shiny". If the joint looks "cloudy" or "dull", chance are you're going to have a "cold" solder joint.

Floppies_only
June 29th, 2010, 06:09 PM
One of the secrets to a good solder joint is to keep you iron soldering iron clean, and don't let the flux and other crude to build up on the tip. Tin your tip and wipe the excess of with an old, slightly damp rag.

A sponge works, too.

Sean

glitch
June 29th, 2010, 07:24 PM
Mine worked for a while, but not it seems like some soldering joints has broken free. I have about 5 ajacent bytes missing per 50 bytes that is being read. Perhaps I should try to get myself a more decent soldering iron...

If you can't find a faulty solder joint, check the 74LS537 latches. I found one to be faulty when assembling the 10 I was sent by Hargle...it would drop bits randomly during transactions.

per
June 30th, 2010, 05:50 AM
If you can't find a faulty solder joint, check the 74LS537 latches. I found one to be faulty when assembling the 10 I was sent by Hargle...it would drop bits randomly during transactions.

In my cause it worked fine in the start (I backed up 15MB using it), then I twisted the board a little just to make sure everything was in-place, and after that I've gotten data corruption errors. I'm 90% sure it's a soldering joint.

james1095
July 13th, 2010, 03:46 PM
Hey guys, sorry if there's a link for this somewhere but I haven't found it yet. Has anyone done a batch of PCBs for this recently? A friend and I are each looking to build one, I thought about etching my own board but that's a lot of vias to deal with and I still wouldn't have the nice solder mask and silkscreen. I have pretty much all the other parts laying around so I just need a couple of blank PCBs.

Alternately, if I can get 10-15+ people to pay a deposit I could have a batch of boards fabricated but I usually get left holding the bag with a bunch of unsold boards when people flake out so I'm hesitant to do that. Price per drops dramatically as the quantity goes up.

wmmullaney
July 13th, 2010, 04:33 PM
Andrew Lynch (lynchaj) is in charge of the PCB. I think he still has a few, they are $12 a piece.