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atod
May 3rd, 2011, 12:27 AM
Hi

Has anyone repaired the white pins in this photo? The pin keeps popping out from the black receiver that accepts it. This causes the door latch to not work.

Wondering if anyone has a workaround for these drives.

Thanks

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/64/photokhc.jpg (http://img52.imageshack.us/i/photokhc.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Chuck(G)
May 3rd, 2011, 12:12 PM
This is one of the more common TM100 issues when it's seen hard use, particularly in schools. The too-energetic "flipping" of the latch to open results in the platic latch pin guides breaking. If no one has an extra latch mech for you, you might try simply wrapping a couple of loops of (solid) wire around the guide, so the pin doesn't pop out.

atod
May 3rd, 2011, 12:47 PM
I'll try asking around for another latch mech. I was using it more last night and the black portion that wraps around the white pin completely snapped. I tried MEK solvent to join the plastic, but this must not be made of styrene.

Chuck(G)
May 3rd, 2011, 01:09 PM
I've found that methyl chloride works well. Most hobby shops sell Ambroid Pro-Weld or Tenax-7.R, which are both very good solvent cements, much better bond than MEK or even Xylene.

MikeS
May 3rd, 2011, 01:46 PM
I don't have much luck gluing/welding plastic if there's any stress on it and find a good epoxy's much more effective.

There was a thread about a broken latch just a little while ago; turned out it wasn't a Tandon after all, but Lorne and Chromedome did mention that they might have some TM100 parts:

http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcforum/showthread.php?24433-WTB-working-5.25-floppy-for-a-Model-3!/page2

RickNel
May 13th, 2011, 08:24 PM
I haven't had this problem (yet) with my TM100s, but I've fixed similar problems in other appliances (eg. dishwasher door latch) by tieing the metal axel into place with a little loop of fine steel wire. There's usually something you can loop the wire around to hold the axel in place, or sometimes you might need to bore a tiny hole or two to anchor your wire loop. On these disappearing items, I try to repair/conserve where possible, rather than replace. If using expoxy, you can also put a loop in place first for tensile strength, then add the expoxy for stability.

Rick

MikeS
May 13th, 2011, 09:58 PM
...If using expoxy, you can also put a loop in place first for tensile strength, then add the expoxy for stability.
RickIndeed; epoxy alone isn't always strong enough and often a pin or loop or whatever isn't secure enough either, but both together usually gives a very strong joint.

Chromedome45
May 15th, 2011, 06:06 AM
I gutted an old Shugart to fix that drive the receiver as you call it had broken off so there was no way of holding the pin in place.

Chuck(G)
May 25th, 2011, 11:00 PM
I had one of these TM100s with a completely broken pin-holding piece.

I fabricated a new pin holder with a bit of sheet brass and a short length of 3/32 brass rod.

Why brass? It's non-magnetic. You could certainly do the same with stainless steel (non-magnetic alloy; not all alloys are), aluminum, or what-have you.

The result will probably last longer than I will. It's not difficult; just hand tools, but a drill press can come in handy. :)

Formulator
March 30th, 2017, 12:21 PM
I had one of these TM100s with a completely broken pin-holding piece.

I fabricated a new pin holder with a bit of sheet brass and a short length of 3/32 brass rod.

Why brass? It's non-magnetic. You could certainly do the same with stainless steel (non-magnetic alloy; not all alloys are), aluminum, or what-have you.

The result will probably last longer than I will. It's not difficult; just hand tools, but a drill press can come in handy. :)

Hello, after several years, one of my TM100's now has a broken pin-holding piece as well. I'd like to perform your fix using brass parts; do you happen to have any images of the fix?

Chuck(G)
March 30th, 2017, 01:27 PM
I'll see if I can find the drive in question. AFAIK, I didn't take any photos because few on this list have interest in metalworking. Heck, you might be better off finding someone to 3D print a replica.

Formulator
April 1st, 2017, 06:41 PM
For the moment, I made the fix using 50-lb nylon test line and it seems to be working well. However, I left the metallic latch brace off. The only reason I can think of for that part is to prevent the latch from being depressed to far.

Still, it would be nice if a Tandon enthusiast printed off a few 3D replacement hinges.

MicrocomputerSolutions
April 5th, 2017, 12:09 AM
Someone left the remains of a TM-100-1 with me about a year ago after I used it for parts to repair a couple of TM-100-2s for him.

It has the later model brass axle (replacing the two white color plastic pins), and I think the door latch itself is intact.

PM me if you still need the parts and I'll check to make sure the parts are usable, and we can work something out.

Michael

jlang
April 7th, 2017, 12:24 PM
Hi

Has anyone repaired the white pins in this photo? The pin keeps popping out from the black receiver that accepts it. This causes the door latch to not work.

Wondering if anyone has a workaround for these drives.

Thanks

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/64/photokhc.jpg (http://img52.imageshack.us/i/photokhc.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

I've had success with JBweld.
(high solids epoxy for non US folks.)

I have 6 TM-100 series drives and all of them have broken.