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Dr.Valkyer
July 21st, 2006, 03:18 PM
Hi!

I found an old Schneider EuroPC IBM-PC Clone but it's missing a power supply. It's seems that it takes a 5v + 12v DC but does someone have the schematics for this ?

carlsson
July 23rd, 2006, 07:03 AM
After a bit of Google Group search, I came across this pin-out:


v
+12V o o ON
+5V o o -12V
+5V o o GND
o GND

I don't know how accurate it is, and whether all pins need to be connected. No idea what the ON signal equates in traditional power supplies. This is a 8088 class machine by the way?

Jorg
July 23rd, 2006, 07:08 AM
This is a 8088 class machine by the way?

http://www.homecomputermuseum.de/comp/55_de.htm

Computer + floppy build into keyboard

Dr.Valkyer
July 23rd, 2006, 12:13 PM
Thanks for the information!!

Hmm, that looks like the possible pinout. So then an ordinary AT/ATX power supply with a mild modification could be used to power up the system?

Yes, it's right! It's an 8088 system with a apparently selectable 4.77 / 7.15 / 9.54 mhz clockrate. It has also a 3.5 floppy drive(720kb), CGA/Hercules output, External HD port and an one ISA expansion slot.

This system is a total stranger for me and I got it for free couple of days ago. The system it self is in good condition, only minor injuries like leaked battery!

I hope that the pinout works! :p Any additional information would be very nice, for example what kind of an external hard drive this computer used?

carlsson
July 23rd, 2006, 02:08 PM
The pins on the pinout were not numbered, so you'll have to guess if the pinout is to be seen from the computer side or from the connector side. Tough to guess.

If you speak German, you could have some luck mainly browsing through Usenet groups. Go to http://groups.google.com and search for schneider europc. Most messages may be old buy/sell or nostalgia, but a few seem to contain some bits of information. I found a few messages in Italian too. Babelfish may give you some rough help there.

From what I understand, the hard disk interface is a 44 pin connector, consisting of a 40 pin IDE-XT plus four pins for power supply to the hard disk. Therefore, most 20, 30, 40 MB IDE disks might work, but you'd have to figure out the pinout for that one too.

modem7
July 24th, 2006, 12:08 AM
No idea what the ON signal equates in traditional power supplies.
Bound to map to the PC/XT/AT 'power good' signal.

modem7
July 24th, 2006, 12:23 AM
The pins on the pinout were not numbered, so you'll have to guess if the pinout is to be seen from the computer side or from the connector side. Tough to guess.
You should be able to do the determination if you have a multimeter. Being labelled 'GND', the two GND pins in the computer socket should be connected to the 'ground' that runs through the computer. I would also expect the metal where the ISA slot is exposed to the outside world to be tied to ground.

Therefore:
1. Put multimeter into resistance mode.
2. Place one probe (either one) on the metal of the ISA slot.
3. Place second probe on the bottom pin (the bottom GND). You should see zero (or close to) zero ohms.
4. Move second probe to each of the pins adjacent to the bottom GND. Whichever reads zero (or close to) zero ohms is your second GND pin.

kb2syd
July 24th, 2006, 04:39 AM
You should be able to do the determination if you have a multimeter. Being labelled 'GND', the two GND pins in the computer socket should be connected to the 'ground' that runs through the computer.
I'm glad you pointed this out. I was about to. You assume some level of expertise, and sometimes forget that not everyone has that. Depending on the internal connections, you can also verify where the +5 and +12 are going pretty easily too. See http://pinouts.ru/Power/SmallPower_pinout.shtml for reference.

modem7
July 25th, 2006, 12:34 AM
You assume some level of expertise, and sometimes forget that not everyone has that.
A lot of the answers on this forum are not understandable/usable by everyone.
I provided Dr. Valkyer with a method to determine the pinout orientation. If he/she can use it, good. If not, oh well!

kb2syd
July 25th, 2006, 04:43 AM
By you I meant the collective 'you' as in the more technical contributors. I was complimenting your response, not criticising it. Sorry if it came off that way.

modem7
July 26th, 2006, 02:42 AM
Oh! I was looking forward to appending the following disclaimer to all my future posts.

------------------------------------------------------------------------
DISCLAIMER

The author of this post in no way whatsoever, either express or implied,
warrants the information contained therein to be comprehensible and/or
useable by all of the readership at this forum.

You assume full responsibility and risk of loss resulting from the use
of said information. Well, that is of course if you can comprehend and/or
use said information.

The said information is an expression of the author's opinions and beliefs.
The quality of such expression is influenced by various factors, including,
but not limited to:
ability of computer to autocorrect spelling mistakes;
alcohol intoxication level;
whether or not the stupid next door neighbour is playing AC/DC at 300 decibels.
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dr.Valkyer
July 27th, 2006, 03:01 AM
You should be able to do the determination if you have a multimeter. Being labelled 'GND', the two GND pins in the computer socket should be connected to the 'ground' that runs through the computer. I would also expect the metal where the ISA slot is exposed to the outside world to be tied to ground.

I tried the method provided modem7 and it worked. It seems like the pinout is from "PSU side". Thanks for the advice!! Now I try to make a proper wires to the EuroPC from ATX power supply. What about the ON signal can I use some specific line from ATX PSU for that? And what about the leaked battery, is the battery needed (will the system work without the battery)?

But anyway thanks a lot!!

modem7
July 27th, 2006, 03:31 AM
It's sure to be the same as the 'power good/OK' signal out of a PC/XT/AT power supply, i.e. informing the computer that the various output voltages are good/stabilised.
That website that kb2syd supplied has details.

If you use an ATX type PSU, note that you will also need to connect a switch between the PSU's 'PS_ON' and 'GRN' lines so that you can turn the PSU on/off.

modem7
July 27th, 2006, 03:45 AM
If you use an ATX type PSU, note that you will also need to connect a switch between the PSU's 'PS_ON' and 'GRN' lines so that you can turn the PSU on/off.
Forgot to mention: That switch is not switching 115/240VAC, and is not passing great current. And so a little toggle switch will be fine.

Dr.Valkyer
July 27th, 2006, 05:27 AM
Ok, thanks man!! :D I shall try to build the PSU at this week. Hopely I will able to test the system then.

modem7
July 28th, 2006, 02:41 PM
And what about the leaked battery, is the battery needed (will the system work without the battery)?
Because your machine is an 8088 clone, that suggests that the battery is needed only to keep the real-time clock going.

BlueofRainbow
August 1st, 2006, 05:25 AM
The following links may help as the Schneider EuroPC and Amstrad of that era shared a lot under neat their name tags:

Cliff Lawson’s AMSTRAD homepage
http://web.ukonline.co.uk/cliff.lawson/

John Elliott's homepage
http://www.seasip.info/index.html


Good luck.

Dr.Valkyer
August 2nd, 2006, 06:48 AM
I finaly built the ATX mod for the EuroPC PSU and it's almost working :) !!
I built the switch from the PowerON to GND and it's seems to work, PSU starts like it should be. The EuroPC takes the power nicely and red keyboard light turns on. Couple of seconds later the the systems starts to make an owful alarm sound (tiiiiiiit tit-tit-tit ...) from the PCSpeaker. Atleast the pinout should be in right way because CAPSLock and NUMLock (lights and keys)works!! I dont have a CGA monitor / adapter (trying to get one) at the moment so I cant test whether the system gives picture or not (and possible what error message BIOS is trying to tell me).

Of course I am not sure about the original condition of this system. It might be that it was broken already when I got it (it was untested). But there is an one thing which is strange, and I am talking about the computer's own power switch. It's working strangely because it doesn't power on / off system! If it's on the OFF position the system will still power up when I press the ATX(mod) switch. When I press the EuroPC power switch it just reboots the computer (wont turn it off). Would it be possible that the ON pin on EuroPC would mean the same thing as the PowerON on ATX, or what is this? :) I dont think that Schneider made useless power buttons.

Dr.Valkyer
August 2nd, 2006, 07:16 AM
Some pictures from the project (see the amount of Blu-Tack to silence the PCSpeaker :) )

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9871/pict0001mb6.th.jpg (http://img198.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict0001mb6.jpg)

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/3029/pict0002tj0.th.jpg (http://img197.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict0002tj0.jpg)

modem7
August 3rd, 2006, 03:43 AM
But there is an one thing which is strange, and I am talking about the computer's own power switch. It's working strangely because it doesn't power on / off system! If it's on the OFF position the system will still power up when I press the ATX(mod) switch. When I press the EuroPC power switch it just reboots the computer (wont turn it off). Would it be possible that the ON pin on EuroPC would mean the same thing as the PowerON on ATX, or what is this? :) I dont think that Schneider made useless power buttons.
Okay. Your computer has a power off/on switch. That's new information. Yes, Schneider would not make useless power buttons. And so with that information, the ON pin is most likely a mechanism to signal the power supply to turn on.
And because with the PSU off, the computer has no power, that power switch is probably just connecting the ON pin to 'ground' when in the on position. You can test that theory with a ohmmeter. And so try it - run the ATX PSU's 'powerOn' line to the Schneider's ON pin.

Re the 'alarm' sound. Hopefully that's just the system telling you that the CMOS setup information is gone (due to a dead battery).

aquasonic
August 23rd, 2006, 03:31 PM
3 beeps on schneider means settings incorrect... the system boots fine! I find mine thrown away and i couldn't resist taking it! I use it with schneider's CM14 colour monitor! Pretty nice System i must say! :)

Gabucino
November 23rd, 2015, 04:10 AM
I'll derail this thread.

I got a EuroPC, and its battery has leaked of course. It does power on, the speaker lets out a "tick" or "knock", Num and Caps lock leds blink once, then nothing. The CPU runs warm.

I've tried with another known-good Siemens 8088 (no change), checked if the EPROMs are working (yes - also dumped them).

When powering up with an ISA diag card, the RESET line goes down as expected, and the IRDY led lights up (does not do this without a CPU). The FRAME led doesn't budge, so unfortunately there's no activity on the bus. The attached CGA monitor gets no signal at all (all white screen), neither does a VGA monitor with an ISA VGA card.

I'm looking for anyone who has done such repairs on the EuroPC.

Here's an image of the affected part of the board after a bit of cleaning: http://gabucino.hu/tmp/euroacid.jpg

Stone
November 23rd, 2015, 04:27 AM
Here's an image of the affected part of the board after a bit of cleaning: http://gabucino.hu/tmp/euroacid.jpgDid you check the traces that show damage for continuity?

You realize that if there's damage to areas on the inner layers there's nothing that can be done.

Gabucino
November 29th, 2015, 03:44 AM
Yes, the seemingly damaged traces are intact.