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View Full Version : Cleaning sticker residue from EPROM chips (which solvent?)



ardent-blue
April 20th, 2017, 10:47 AM
I just finished taking the stickers off of 22 AMD Am27C010 -120 EPROMs. Didn't get everything, and there is some adhesive residue left.

What common products will remove the residue?

chulofiasco
April 20th, 2017, 11:14 AM
I'd try 91% isopropyl...

roberttx
April 20th, 2017, 11:38 AM
I'd try 91% isopropyl...
Seconded. Use a q tip and be careful to avoid any markings.

Chuck(G)
April 20th, 2017, 01:34 PM
My first try would be paint thinner (mineral spirits), then perchloroethylene. Since windowed EPROMs are cerDIP packages, you can't really hurt them.

Unknown_K
April 20th, 2017, 01:45 PM
Goo Gone works for me (mostly stickers on laptops), made from petroleum distillates and citrus.

luckybob
April 20th, 2017, 02:13 PM
I use these for everything:

https://www.amazon.com/B-D-326895-Alcohol-Swabs-100each/dp/B0010L6H1Y

pre packaged alcohol pads. THICK, and absorbent. I get mine at my local pharmacy for slightly less. Honestly 70% alcohol works just fine.

glitch
April 20th, 2017, 06:23 PM
Isopropyl alcohol, apply with whatever. The markings on CERDIP should be unaffected. I often just clean the window, that's really the only part where it matters, and the quartz is usually slick enough that any residue comes right off.

ardent-blue
April 21st, 2017, 03:04 AM
Isopropyl alcohol, apply with whatever. The markings on CERDIP should be unaffected. I often just clean the window, that's really the only part where it matters, and the quartz is usually slick enough that any residue comes right off.

Hi test alcohol? You mean this bottle of 151 Rum can be used externally?

:drunk:

roberttx
April 21st, 2017, 05:01 AM
Hi test alcohol? You mean this bottle of 151 Rum can be used externally?

:drunk:
I've been known to buy everclear for use as a degreaser instead of for drinking.

Druid6900
April 21st, 2017, 07:17 AM
I just use (carefully) WD-40 and a qtip.

Zippy Zapp
April 21st, 2017, 07:48 AM
Goo Gone is what I usually use for adhesives/sticker residue. I then follow it up with Iso Prop. to get rid of the citrus residue. Works great. However try it out first to make sure it doesnt remove the marking.

If you don't have goo gone, you can use Mayonnaise. Yes the condiment. It gets rid of sticker residue too. Don't laugh until you try it. Just use Iso Prop after to get rid of that residue...

gekaufman
April 21st, 2017, 09:03 AM
I keep a small bottle of 50/50 acetone and 70% isopropyl Alcohol on my workbench, great for removing flux after soldering and makes quick work of removing labels from Ceramic Eproms.

Not good however for anything with plastic. It also wipes the markings from all of the Remarked/Counterfeit IC's from China :)

- Gary

Chuck(G)
April 21st, 2017, 09:12 AM
I just use (carefully) WD-40 and a qtip.

On a cerDIP UVEPROM, exactly what are you trying to avoid damaging? Short of HF, I don't know of much that will affect the encapsulation, though I'd keep acids away from the leads.

In the old days, I'd probably use Freon TF.

Druid6900
April 22nd, 2017, 07:08 AM
On a cerDIP UVEPROM, exactly what are you trying to avoid damaging? Short of HF, I don't know of much that will affect the encapsulation, though I'd keep acids away from the leads.

In the old days, I'd probably use Freon TF.

Since I've never just sprayed it on, I don't know what effect it would have on the "window". Probably none, but, I do like to be careful.

David_M
April 22nd, 2017, 07:18 AM
I just use isopropyl alcohol, it works well enough.

Chuck(G)
April 22nd, 2017, 09:08 AM
Since I've never just sprayed it on, I don't know what effect it would have on the "window". Probably none, but, I do like to be careful.

The window has to pass short-wave UV, so it's quartz (SiO2). Quartz is pretty tough stuff.

jamesbeat
May 3rd, 2017, 02:14 PM
Stoddard Solvent.
Sounds fancy, but I'm really just repeating Chuck(G)'s advice above - it's mineral spirits.
The same stuff is sold as barbecue lighter fluid, so it's cheap and easy to get hold of.

It works much better than any of the alcohols.

For paper labels without a coating, you can use a Q tip to saturate the label.
Leave it for a couple of minutes and it will practically fall off.

For coated paper labels, peel off the top plastic layer and then treat as above.


One useful aspect is that if you let the label dry out again, it can often be reused - useful for warranty labels :)

You can even use it to peel a label off a cardboard box without damage to either the label or the box.

Chuck(G)
May 3rd, 2017, 02:51 PM
I use the same to remove floppy labels. I wet them thoroughy, bundle them up and let the stuff soak in for a couple of days.

The labels come right off without any residue that can't be wiped off with a rag.

FWIW, WD-40 (https://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf) is largely Stoddard solvent also.

jamesbeat
May 4th, 2017, 04:16 PM
I use the same to remove floppy labels. I wet them thoroughy, bundle them up and let the stuff soak in for a couple of days.

The labels come right off without any residue that can't be wiped off with a rag.

FWIW, WD-40 (https://wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf) is largely Stoddard solvent also.

It's great isn't it? Makes even the toughest label peel off like a Post-it.

Another bonus is that I have never known it to damage any type of plastic.
Perfectly safe to use on ABS, which is what most computer stuff is made of.

I've even soaked ABS in it overnight.
I had to remove some of that extremely stubborn white double sided foam tape.

It takes longer to soak in because of the plastic foam, but once it penetrates, the foam just falls off.
Interestingly, it didn't do any damage to the foam either - just dissolved the adhesive.

acheter
May 27th, 2017, 12:59 AM
I get mine at my local pharmacy for slightly less.

Stone
May 27th, 2017, 02:51 AM
While White Spirit or Stoddard Solvent is readily available in the UK and Australia it doesn't seem to be sold here in the US. Does anybody know of a local source?

Dwight Elvey
May 27th, 2017, 06:39 AM
While White Spirit or Stoddard Solvent is readily available in the UK and Australia it doesn't seem to be sold here in the US. Does anybody know of a local source?

If the adhesive is really old and dry I scrape it off with my pocket knife
or finger nail. Like Chuck said, quartz is tough stuff.
Dwight

Stone
May 27th, 2017, 08:25 AM
If the adhesive is really old and dry I scrape it off with my pocket knife
or finger nail. Like Chuck said, quartz is tough stuff.
DwightWhat does this have to do with sourcing a bottle of this stuff in the US? :-)

Chuck(G)
May 27th, 2017, 09:03 AM
Stoddard solvent is an inexact mixture of lighter petroleum distillates, mostly aliphatic hydrocarbons.

You can buy a gallon of the stuff in the US at most hardware and home-improvement stores as "Paint Thinner". (Not "Laquer thinner")

https://cdn2.tmbi.com/TFH/Step-By-Step/FH12JUN_BESSOL_02.JPG

If you can't find that stuff, just pick up a gallon of Coleman fuel. Close enough.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9c/Camp_fuel.jpg/450px-Camp_fuel.jpg

As is usual for both, keep away from open flames and hot places. (i.e. don't store it in the same closet as you gas-fired water heater).

Dwight Elvey
May 27th, 2017, 03:08 PM
What does this have to do with sourcing a bottle of this stuff in the US? :-)

Post #1
"What common products will remove the residue?"

Why buy some hazardous material when you don't need it.
Dwight

Stone
May 27th, 2017, 03:54 PM
Why buy some hazardous material when you don't need it.I don't think you should assume you know what I intend to do with this item. After all, it has a multitude of uses. If you research it you'll see what I am referring to. That being said it's not at all possible for you to know what I need or don't need; after all I could be working on a liquid fuel model rocket in my spare time. Unfortunately, your pocket knife or finger nail just won't make the cut in that situation. :-) FWIW, I built several solid fuel rockets in the past and using the more advanced liquid fuel system seems like the logical next step (maybe not to you but it's not your project, is it?).

Chuck(G)
May 27th, 2017, 05:32 PM
Well, if you own a gas-powered car, truck or lawnmower, you're routinely fooling with a potent known carcinogen--particularly if you're area insists on self-service at the pump (it's still against the law here).

If I were to take the mercury in my dental fillings and place it in a elementary school classroom, I have no doubt that someone would call the hazmat people.

And I'm ignoring the lead in your vintage equipment.

If you don't like the regular Stoddard solvent, or "white spirit", there's always the hydrolyzed version (I have some and I don't think it works as well):

http://www.kleanstrip.com/images/made/uploads/products/Paint-thinner-green-GKGP75011-900_300_300_80.jpg

Or just try some olive oil or citrus oil, bacon grease, macassar oil... It really doesn't matter--eventually the adhesive will be affected.

Dwight Elvey
May 27th, 2017, 09:20 PM
I don't think you should assume you know what I intend to do with this item. After all, it has a multitude of uses. If you research it you'll see what I am referring to. That being said it's not at all possible for you to know what I need or don't need; after all I could be working on a liquid fuel model rocket in my spare time. Unfortunately, your pocket knife or finger nail just won't make the cut in that situation. :-) FWIW, I built several solid fuel rockets in the past and using the more advanced liquid fuel system seems like the logical next step (maybe not to you but it's not your project, is it?).

I beg your pardon but this thread has nothing to do with rockets or other.
You jumped on me for mentioning how I clean EPROM windows. Since you
neither started this thread or commented in it, other then to jump on me for
a valid response. I think you need to do a self evaluation.
I don't even presume to know what your intentions are.
Dwight

framer
July 21st, 2017, 12:38 PM
Being a picture framer for 40+ years I've deal with many a sticker, tape and goo. Just about a picture framer can get you a product called "UnStik" made by a company call "Bienfang". The only issue getting it is it can't be sent through the mail, FedEx or UPS. I have to get it from a distributer that can deliver it on their own truck. Most framing shops get weekly deliveries. If you in the boonies your SOL. If you can find a picture framing distributor, in most cities of size, buy direct by going to the place. It's not expensive just hard to get. It leaves no residue even if poured on paper, evaporates extremely fast.

framer

Chuck(G)
July 21st, 2017, 12:52 PM
The MSDS (http://www.art.illinois.edu/images/documents/MSDS/3D-Fab-Lab-SDS/BIENFANG-UNSTICK-ADHESIVE.pdf) shows that it's 100% n-neptane, not much different from mineral spirits.