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Thread: DIY: FPGA MDA/EGA/CGA to VGA Converter :D

  1. #51

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    Well I have published it month ago:

    https://sites.google.com/site/tandyc...cga-ega-to-vga

  2. #52
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    If someone has some boards made and puts some kits together, I would surely buy at least two un-assembled kits!!

  3. #53

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    I'm interested in at least 3 or 4 boards...I might have to figure out how to order them myself.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plasma View Post
    I'm interested in at least 3 or 4 boards...I might have to figure out how to order them myself.
    If there is enough interest in this, it would be great to do this as a group. I would be willing to commit to and pay for up to three boards and parts kits in advance. What we need here is someone with experience to spearhead the whole thing. Unfortunately, I don't have the knowledge to do this on my own, but would be willing to help in some small capacity with guidance from someone more experienced than myself with these kind of projects. Perhaps we should start a new thread for this to gauge interest.

  5. #55
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    I would like two pcb's

    Len

  6. Default

    First of all I would like to thank you @Retro Canada for making this wonderful adapter, just assembled it and works flawlessly

    In any case I have noticed two things:

    - In hercules / mda mode the screen is missing like 100 pixels from the left side, is this normal?
    - In cga mode, depending on the cga card I use I'm getting those interferences on the screen: (look for the pattern where the ninja is standing)



    It depends on the cga I'm using. One has no interference at all, one has this interference, and others have a lot...

    What can be causing it?

  7. #57

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    Presse the RESET button several times (the button on the top of the FGPA unit) this is a fine tunning adjustment keep pressing and it will wrap up at the orignal position at some point.

    For the MDA which card are you using ?

  8. #58

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    Ah, if screen goes up (or down) flip the dip switch 1 (the closed to the edge of the board) this change between hor/vert adjust (also a led you turn on/off)

    The adjust is needed becase some video cards use different timings, that is the distance between the hsync pulse and the first pixel is variable and this is a digital design with low resolution capture, if it hits the pixel borderline you see these fluctuations. But pressing reset moves the digitize center.

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