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Thread: New Project...

  1. #1

    Default New Project...

    Ex Government computer, 2001-32N BS
    A new project to keep me busy over christmas! I have successfully restored radios, tvs even a arcade machine!

    This one is my proper computer restoration task..

    The case hasn't rusted through, which is fine..
    Next task is to carefully disassemble the computer itself into several pieces and sandblast the case.


    Wish me luck I will need it!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2

    Default

    Nice one - was that the rusty old one on eBay?

  3. #3

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    The very one!

    The board looks ok surprisingly, only one or two chips has rusty legs from first view. We will find out when I get it out.

    The screws for the board are very badly corroded same goes for the keyboard. I will have to drill into the metal pin fasteners (can't remember what they are called) to separate the case.

    Oh btw, there is a switch on the right, a Audiogenus Petset (a special kind of reset to save the pet from crashing?)



    Quote Originally Posted by JonB View Post
    Nice one - was that the rusty old one on eBay?

  4. #4

    Default

    Well, definitely worth a punt at that price.

    So this reset switch - is it just a switch connected to the motherboard or is there a circuit board?

    About restoration - I acquired a "fat 40" PET that needed a new CRT (smashed in the post) and a respray of the bottom chassis. All I did was sand off the rust then spray in black from a can, warming the surface up a bit. Looks like new, almost. The top half is plastic so just neeed a good going over with Jif. A good result.

    Here is the repair log: http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthrea...32-restoration

    There's a useful tip on restoring the labels on the back panel in there.

    I had also acquired a steel 9" PET like yours and was asking about restoration. I think the problem is removing the PET label without breaking it, but once done you can shot blast and respray.

    This thread may be useful: http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthrea...move-the-label

    Any questions, let me know. Whereabouts in the UK are you?

  5. #5

    Default

    Well the Reset switch is audiogenus Petset, just a board containing three switches, one of which is a slider and it's marked 'Safe', I will take a photo for you.

    I have spent a couple of hours dismantling the Pet, I drilled into the pins so now the case can come apart nicely without any damage. The board was taken off very easily, the screws are badly corroded but they still work. One of the screws holding the metal spacer has rusted through and the head has crumbled, so I managed to get that off by drilling just the head.
    The transformer was easy, the fuse holder was missing a fuse and the cap (that screws in holding the fuse inside) So I will need to get a replacement. The switch seems ok, I will have to check it with a meter.

    The next job was the monitor, back came off very easy despite the rusty screws, the nuts holding the board in however was in a bad state, one of them just crumbled away in my hands. With the board and CRT out (how on earth did they manage to get that CRT in the first place??) I focused on the next task.

    Removing the keyboard was the most difficult job of all. The screws were badly corroded but just about able to unscrew away from the case. The screws holding the board to the keyboard moulding was really difficult. The holes on the plastic moulding that keeps the screw in for the board has crumbled away. I will need to work out how to re-attach the board somehow..

    The gold 'fingers' seem in ok condition surprisingly besides the horrendous rust marks.. I believe there was something dripping onto the front of the monitor and
    gathered in the keyboard mouldings there. When overfills would just drip into the bottom of the case!

    Very bad, the case and the monitor can be rescued, the main board has a fairly good chance, but the keyboard.. hmmmm

    Tips are welcome!

    Jon, I'm in Manchester

    IMG_20171109_134339_resized_20171109_045551907.jpgIMG_20171109_151418_resized_20171109_045552603.jpgIMG_20171109_163518_resized_20171109_045549023.jpgIMG_20171109_165127_resized_20171109_045549721.jpgIMG_20171109_165135_resized_20171109_045551081.jpgIMG-20171109-WA0022.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by JonB View Post
    Well, definitely worth a punt at that price.

    So this reset switch - is it just a switch connected to the motherboard or is there a circuit board?

    About restoration - I acquired a "fat 40" PET that needed a new CRT (smashed in the post) and a respray of the bottom chassis. All I did was sand off the rust then spray in black from a can, warming the surface up a bit. Looks like new, almost. The top half is plastic so just neeed a good going over with Jif. A good result.

    Here is the repair log: http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthrea...32-restoration

    There's a useful tip on restoring the labels on the back panel in there.

    I had also acquired a steel 9" PET like yours and was asking about restoration. I think the problem is removing the PET label without breaking it, but once done you can shot blast and respray.

    This thread may be useful: http://www.vcfed.org/forum/showthrea...move-the-label

    Any questions, let me know. Whereabouts in the UK are you?

  6. #6

    Default

    Final job for the night..

    The shift key is not working, there is no continuity, so I have opened it up carefully, there is a broken part (which can be glued I'm sure, and there is green corrosion on the contacts
    I will clean this up carefully with cotton buds and IPA the next time I get back to this PET. I will also get cracking on cleaning the keys individually.
    The main board and plastic keyboard has been cleaned with soapy water and a paintbrush. (rinsed and left to dry)

    Good night for now.
    Last edited by idlebiker; November 9th, 2017 at 02:12 PM.

  7. #7

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    I also saw this on eBay and wondered how corroded it was internally as it looked bad from the photos. Did you post photos of the reset switch as I have a couple of Audigenic Petset 2 reset switches on my 3032 and 8032?

    Fingers cross the motherboard fires up without any issues ��

  8. #8

    Default

    That's the Shift Lock key isn't it? It is the only discrete keyswitch on the board. Mine's broken as well (on my Fat40). Works but will not latch down, but it's no biggie as you don't tend to use shift lock very often. I mean WHO NEEDS TO SHOUT these days?

    Your main board looks to be in great condition, let's hope it works as-is. The mains fuse is a 250v slo-blo glass fuse, 5x20mm like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301268497607 - I replaced mine with a 1A fuse although the one I took out was .5A and the Commodore design spec says 1.6A (albeit for the lower US voltage). Your case looks really awful but it is easy to restore as you already mentioned. You might find it difficult reproducing the textured paint finish, though - and it isn't 100% white either. There appears to be a slight yellowy tinge, so paint matching may prove tricky. The keyboard is a bit trickier, but you should be able to fix it. You may find it necessary to put in new connections if any of the tracks have failed. I used point to point wire, it looks like the copper stuff used in transformer windings but has a special enamel coating that can be soldered directly without stripping. You can see the pictures on the thread I posted.

    Great to see another UK PET resurrection!

  9. #9

    Default

    Hi Jon, yes it is the shift key, hopefully I'll get it to work. If not then I will find an alternative or 'bodge' it somehow. I have worked out how to sort the keeping the board to the keyboard problem.

    Thank you for telling me whats the fuse is, it saves me from asking!
    Paint matching will be difficult so I will settle for white or cream.

    These are useful tips, thanks Jon!

  10. #10

    Default

    Quick question - how did you get the front panel label off?

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