Image Map Image Map
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: A2E Astec AA11040B or C power supply - need help to repair it

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    897

    Default A2E Astec AA11040B or C power supply - need help to repair it

    Hi everyone, greetings from Tandyland

    I'm trying to fix a AA11040B PSU for an A2E. I've checked the fuse, electrolytics, and the globar resistor. I've replaced the Rifa, but the PSU still shows no signs of life. Does anyone have links to a step-by-step way to check and fix the PSU?

    I am testing it plugged into an A2E motherboard, it's my understanding that like most Astec PSUs of the era it needs to be under load to function.

    Thanks in advance,

    Ian.
    *There is never a charge for Tech Support even if you don't purchase from me - We are Enthusiasts Helping Other Enthusiast and that is just the way it is

  2. #2

    Default

    Ian,
    Here is a bit of information on the A2E Power Supply.
    https://ia801002.us.archive.org/1/it...lies_Aug82.pdf

    https://www.applefritter.com/content...voltage-output


    I also have saved this from the Model 3 Manual for the Astec Power Supply that is in the TRS-80 Model 3.

    ASTEC TRS-80 Model 3 Power Supply

    NOTE: Use an isolation transformer when servicing the power supply.
    Disconnect Connectors SK2, SK3, and SK4 to
    avoid possible damage to the Computer from high voltages
    that may be produced while servicing the power supply.


    Power Supply Load Values:
    .................+5.....................+12....... .........-12
    min.............45A..................3A........... .......0A
    Safe............11.11 OHM........40 OHM.........0
    PWR...........5 Watts.............8 Watts..........0
    MAX............2.5A.................2.02A......... ...1A
    PWR............2 OHMS..........24.24 OHM......120 OHM
    Safe PWR....25 Watts..........50 Watts.........2 Watts

    Use a 60 Watt Incandescent Light Bulb in Series with the Line (HOT)
    to protect from a possible shorted Supply. If there is a defect
    the Light Bulb will "Shine Bright", or if there is a problem it may
    be half bright, depending on the malfunction.


    REF: Model 3 Service Manual
    Check Fuse Resistor R25. If R25 is open check for shorts at
    the Bridge Rectifier (DB1). Check for a possible shorted
    Driver Transistor (Q2). If R25 is good apply 120V AC power
    and check for 120V AC across capacitor C2. If 120 AC is
    missing check the Line Choke (L1), Power Switch (SW1) and
    check connector SK1 for good connections & Safe LOADS. If
    120V AC is present at Capacitor C2, check for 163V at cathode
    of Diode D2 (use emitter of Oscillator Transistor Q1 as
    reference). If 163V is missing, check Bridge Rectifier
    (DB1). If 163V is present, check the waveforms at the base
    of oscillator Transistor (Q1) and Driver Transistor (Q2) to
    determine if the power supply is oscillating. If the power
    supply is not oscillating check the voltages and com-
    ponents associated with Transistors Q1 and Q2, check
    Diodes D1, D2, and D3 and check for possible open windings
    on Transformers T1 and T2. If the power supply is
    oscillating, check the source voltages at connector SK2
    (-12.8V at Pin P1, 12.0V at Pin P2 and 5.0V at pin P4). If the
    voltages are not regulated, check the voltages and comp-
    onents associated with the Regulator IC (IC1) and
    Regulator Transistor (Q3). Check Transformer T1 for poss-
    ible open windings. If the 12V source is missing, check
    Diode D4, Coil L4, Electrolytics C11 and C15 and check the
    windings from Pin 7 to Pin 9 of Transformer T2. If the -12.8V
    source is missing, check Diode D7, Coil L6, Electrolytics
    C14 and C16, and check the windings from pin 6 to 8 of Trans-
    former T2.



    Larry

    Astec-AA11040B.jpg
    Last edited by ldkraemer; May 21st, 2018 at 02:46 AM. Reason: updated

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    477

    Default

    The most common cause of the symptom you describe is an open winding on the feedback transformer. That winding with the 68 Ohm resistor across it is prone to failure. C7 (220uf) will sometimes cause the problem I generally recap before powering them on so it isnt usually an issue. A few times I've found OC resistors in the primary side and once it was a transistor Q1. Failure of the main switching transistor or the bridge is quite rare nowadays but it was fairly common back in the 80's.

    As I said that transformer is most likely to be the problem. You can't buy new ones but you can repair them, get yourself some enameled copper wire wind about 35 turns over the old windings and terminate your windings on the posts the bad winding terminates on. I always do my windings in the same direction as the old winding, I don't know if it makes a difference but I do it anyway.

    14940108_1318136234883532_2505776855320786254_o.jpg
    It's not pretty but it works.
    Last edited by David_M; May 21st, 2018 at 07:18 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    477

    Default

    In case anyone is curious, Ian and I did a part swap and part of the deal was a changeover of the faulty power supply with a refurbished one.

    It turned out to be a quick recapping exercise. There was some minor leakage of a few filter capacitors but the fault was caused by C7 (220uf), it was totally shot.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •