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Thread: Will trade two complete Macintosh Analog boards 630-0102 for a working one

  1. #1
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    Default Will trade two complete Macintosh Analog boards 630-0102 for a working one

    So I am pretty fed up trying to fix these analog boards for a Compact Macintosh Plus. I either get to a solid horizontal bar or chirping. None of the repairs I have done have changed anything. Out of all the vintage machines I have worked on the Compact Mac's are the worst. IF there is anyone out there who is more familiar with these wretched systems I would be willing to trade two 630-0102 Boards for a working board of the same style. Please PM me.

    And in case someone was curious, I have 3 logic boards that are all functional when used with my working analog board so I know the Logic board isnt culprit.

    Thanks,

    Frustratingly hopeful,

    Mick

  2. #2
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    Nothing huh? Anyone have a working board they are willing to sell at a non-gouging price?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by VERAULT View Post
    Nothing huh? Anyone have a working board they are willing to sell at a non-gouging price?
    Hey Mick, I've been planning on swapping in a new analog board i picked up into my Mac 512k and assuming that works, I can send you my old Analog board in exchange for the 2 non-working ones for spare parts. The old one works great (I replaced the RIFAs and a few other things before I realized, in my case, it was the logic board that was the problem and replaced that). I just wanted to put the new one in since it wound up with some other stuff I picked up and i'm slowly restoring that Mac to 'newish' shape.

    Let me check it out later and I'll PM you if we're a go.
    -- Brian

    Systems: Amstad PCW 8256, Apple IIe/II+/GS/Mac+/Mac 512k, Atari 800/520STFM, Commodore 64/128/Amiga 3000/PET 4032/SX-64, IBM PS/1 2121-B82, Kaypro II, Osborne 1, Tandy 1000 SX, TI-99/4A, Timex Sinclair 1000, TRS-80 Color Computer 3/Model 4 GA

  4. #4
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    BTW Mick,

    While I'm trying to figure this out.. just a few questions about what you've done on those analog boards. Have you checked the 5v and 12v pins on the external floppy connector when it's hooked up? My experience getting those analog boards working properly and related to the horizontal line/etc there were a few things:

    Yoke connector bad solder joints (Dead mac scrolls, page 49)
    Check voltage and adjust (Classic Mac Repair, page 8-9)
    Bad transistors (Dead Mac Scrolls, page 50)

    Classic Mac Repair: http://www.ccadams.org/se/classicmac2.pdf
    Dead Mac Scrolls: https://archive.org/details/TheDeadMacScrolls

    Anyway, you might have already looked at all this but just thought i'd mention it.
    -- Brian

    Systems: Amstad PCW 8256, Apple IIe/II+/GS/Mac+/Mac 512k, Atari 800/520STFM, Commodore 64/128/Amiga 3000/PET 4032/SX-64, IBM PS/1 2121-B82, Kaypro II, Osborne 1, Tandy 1000 SX, TI-99/4A, Timex Sinclair 1000, TRS-80 Color Computer 3/Model 4 GA

  5. #5

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    I am not familiar with macs at all, but I have an old mac (512k?) that was in pretty bad physical shape, but it still produced a nice picture. I have no need for the analog board since I have no other macs. I don't really know what they are worth, but i'd be glad to see it go to someone who would enjoy it. You're welcome to it if you want it. I don't need anything for it, just cover shipping and we're all good!

  6. #6

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    What repairs have you already attempted? Both problems you describe are relatively common and are sometimes easy fixes. Have you reflowed the solder joints at yoke connector J1? That connector very commonly develops cracked solder joints and can cause the vertical collapse you describe. If not, there may be a short in the vertical sweep circuit (the Dead Mac Scrolls specifically mentions transistor Q2 and Q4, resistor R3, and zener diode CR15 as common failures).

    The chirping issue is a bit more difficult to track down. I have found that it is sometimes rectified simply by adjusting the "voltage" potentiometer on the analog board. However, the Dead Mac Scrolls points towards the barrel rectifier CR5 as causing this problem.

    I hope this post helps you to track down the issue, or at least set you in the right direction. However, you might have already performed these fixes; I don't know what you've done yet.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by VERAULT View Post
    So I am pretty fed up trying to fix these analog boards for a Compact Macintosh Plus. I either get to a solid horizontal bar or chirping. None of the repairs I have done have changed anything. Out of all the vintage machines I have worked on the Compact Mac's are the worst. IF there is anyone out there who is more familiar with these wretched systems I would be willing to trade two 630-0102 Boards for a working board of the same style. Please PM me.

    And in case someone was curious, I have 3 logic boards that are all functional when used with my working analog board so I know the Logic board isnt culprit.

    Thanks,

    Frustratingly hopeful,

    Mick
    Hi Mick, I ended up with one of your boards (via ngtwolf) and I got it working.

    I put together an Imgur gallery:
    https://imgur.com/a/V28DJIM?



    Basically, three faults (one of those causing secondary damage of a few other things.)

    First, 12v secondary main cap was bad. Had visibly leaked (a while ago as it was dry and crusty) and when I removed it, one leg pulled out like a hot knife in butter.... It was completely dead. Replaced the cap with a Rubycon ... (I noticed you had changed out a few other caps already including the 3.3uf near the top of the board but not this one.) All other caps tested good on the ESR meter so I left them alone...

    Next, one pin of the voltage adjust pot has broken off. It looks OK visually but when I went to adjust it from the back of the board, the pot moved.... it was causing the whole PSU to run at far too high a voltage. So I soldered that leg back together. Now the PSU started up and booted the Mac, but there was a big issue. (See the Imgur link) Vertical deflection wasn't working right and it was making the PSU chirp 60 times a second and also causing lots of ripple.

    Found that Q4 was dead .... replaced the dead 2N4401 with a 2N5551 I had handy. Still no dice.

    Then found the Q2 was shorted. This explains the lack of deflection and it was causing a short 60 times a second -- causing the power supply to freak out a bit and make noise but also burn out two 1.5ohm resistors. That is certainly what killed Q4 too as that's a fragile part compared to the main NPN/PNP vertical deflection pair on the board. The pair are audio amp transistors (not MOSFETS) so I found a pair of them on an old junked VGA monitor.... Installed them and replaced the burned resistors with ones salvaged from an old junked SMPS and no more short.

    The board wasn't quite right though but that turned out to be that 2N5551 wasn't a great replacement for a 2N4401 in this case, so I put in a new 4401 and it is the whole things works perfectly.

    Spot on voltage regulation of the rails -- silent running -- and a perfect picture. I cleaned off the slight battery corrosion on the battery compartment, soldered in a CR2032 holder and actually ended up leaving this board in my Mac Plus.

    Thought you might have found this interesting....

    -Adrian
    -- Adrian Black / Adrian's Digital Basement

  8. #8
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    Nice Fix. Those Compact Mac Analog boards are my nemesis at this point. I Seem to remember replacing q4 and q2 but maybe that was another system. You know even when I do end up fixing a Mac 512K or Plus or SE and have it working great, I put it on the shelf and some time down the road I try it again and another fault happens. I don't know, just not of a fan of the PSU being shared with the CRT board, its just not a good design. I was given a Mac plus that came from a school system in Wisconsin. It was in sad shape, cracked front bezel, and an actual hornets nest inside (long since dead) connected to the CPU. I actually got that thing running. About a year after that I wanted to repair its floppy drive (actually build a floppy cable since it uses a slightly different pin out yellow pin1 stripe rather than red) and the motherboard cable to the analogue board broke some of the solder points on the analogue board and shorted it out. Main board is fine but analog board no longer works. They are so temperamental it takes a lot of the fun out of them. Glad you got it working and the board is back in service. Can we expect a video on the subject?
    Take care,
    Mick

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by VERAULT View Post
    Nice Fix. Those Compact Mac Analog boards are my nemesis at this point. I Seem to remember replacing q4 and q2 but maybe that was another system. You know even when I do end up fixing a Mac 512K or Plus or SE and have it working great, I put it on the shelf and some time down the road I try it again and another fault happens. I don't know, just not of a fan of the PSU being shared with the CRT board, its just not a good design. I was given a Mac plus that came from a school system in Wisconsin. It was in sad shape, cracked front bezel, and an actual hornets nest inside (long since dead) connected to the CPU. I actually got that thing running. About a year after that I wanted to repair its floppy drive (actually build a floppy cable since it uses a slightly different pin out yellow pin1 stripe rather than red) and the motherboard cable to the analogue board broke some of the solder points on the analogue board and shorted it out. Main board is fine but analog board no longer works. They are so temperamental it takes a lot of the fun out of them. Glad you got it working and the board is back in service. Can we expect a video on the subject?
    Take care,
    Mick
    You know it's funny after all these Mac repair videos I decided to just fix your board without a video ... I think initially since I thought it wouldn't be interesting. Of course it had turned out to actually be interesting ..... but I didn't shoot any video. LOL. It's how it goes sometimes....

    I have ended up being really lucky with all these analog boards. On the 128k through Plus, it always just seems to be cracked solder joints for me and then they work perfectly again. Your's seemed to need more "love" ... I was wondering if it might have suffered some damage from maybe having the system powered on with the CRT ground wire disconnected?
    -- Adrian Black / Adrian's Digital Basement

  10. #10
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    I think I used more effort on the first board that Ngtwolf got from me. By the time I started on this second board I gave up early in the process. Only the first board worked at one time. The one you fixed I received broken and it never worked while I had it.

    Glad to see you repaired it and kudos on the awesome repair.

    As for Classic and Classic II Macs. I avoid them. The two I purchased had severe leakage like some of yours did and were way beyond salvage with most of the IC legs being corroded to dust. The SE 30 is the latest Model of classic Compact Macs I would work on.

    I do use your method for SMD cap repair. I use flush cutters to cut the caps off at their base leaving the plastic square tab and the two posts. I pop off the tab and use a soldering iron to slide off the legs then cleanup the site. I don't own a hot air rework station so this method has worked quite well for me. I recapped A moderately bad leaking Mac IIsi (cap leakage not battery leakage) that only needed two bodge wires and a Mac color classic (both PSU and board) and the method is tried and true. Both worked great after the fact.

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