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Thread: Finally started

  1. #11
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    Ok, drive light does not come on and head does not step either.

    Is it a cable select system or are each drive jumpered ? I cant remember which drive was drive 1 so its 'possible' maybe that it cant find drive 1 maybe ?

    The other drive spindle and head are seized at the moment and needs the drive motor rebuilding as I have nicked it for the refurb drive, so thats going to take a bit of time.

    I do think I will need to replace the spindle bearings as they do rumble a bit, but will need a smaller puller than I have. At least it seems to use standard cartridge bearings so they will be easy to get hold of.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary C View Post
    Ok, drive light does not come on and head does not step either.

    Is it a cable select system or are each drive jumpered ? I cant remember which drive was drive 1 so its 'possible' maybe that it cant find drive 1 maybe ?

    The other drive spindle and head are seized at the moment and needs the drive motor rebuilding as I have nicked it for the refurb drive, so thats going to take a bit of time.

    I do think I will need to replace the spindle bearings as they do rumble a bit, but will need a smaller puller than I have. At least it seems to use standard cartridge bearings so they will be easy to get hold of.
    Drive 0 is on bottom and is the boot disk. Drive numbering is determined by the cabling. If you find a source for the bearings, please post the info as I have a number of these drives to rebuild.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pski View Post
    Drive 0 is on bottom and is the boot disk. Drive numbering is determined by the cabling. If you find a source for the bearings, please post the info as I have a number of these drives to rebuild.
    Thanks for the info, I have the drive plugged in to the top so will swap and see what happens.

    I will start on the second drive next week and will have a closer look at the bearing ID and let you know.

    Screens brightness was so high that I could see the flyback trace, reduced it to normal using the internal pot but that seemed really clean in operation. Odd that it had shifted so much. Screen seems to be in very good condition which makes sense that it wasnt used a great deal when it was new.

  4. #14
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    Ok, changed over the drive connection and now its seeking with the red light on and doesn't go to 'cass ?', so that looks more positive.

    Not tried it with my original DOS 6.1.1 disk yet as I dont want to damage it. Is their anyway to produce one from a PC or al a ADTpro ?

  5. #15
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    Lancashire
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    Puller arrived today from Amazon,

    20190523_165402.jpg

    Given my pin punch didnt shift it easily, I wasnt totally confident this would be strong enough to shift it, but it came off easily

    20190523_165529.jpg

    Just need to rebuild it now, but off to wedding rehearsal for our oldest, so that rules out the weekend too !

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pski View Post
    Drive 0 is on bottom and is the boot disk. Drive numbering is determined by the cabling. If you find a source for the bearings, please post the info as I have a number of these drives to rebuild.
    Bearings are originally 0.25" ID 0.625" OD NMB R-4HH for the lower bearing and NMB SSR-4HH flanged bearing for the top. Both seem to be available on Amazon in the US (https://www.amazon.com/SSR4HH-NMB-Si.../dp/B00DBOH4R4 & https://www.amazon.com/R4HH-NMB-Sing.../dp/B00DBOWXDO, no idea if Chinese copys or not)

    In the UK its harder to find. RS actually do the NMB flanged bearing (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ball-bearings/0540362/) but not the plain version. I have found another site (https://www.123bearing.co.uk/bearing-Y1-4-ZZ.php) but these do look like cheap clones and the SKF ones are out of stock.

    Unfortunately the bearing factors near me has closed (all the online shopping I suppose). So I have ordered the RS and the 123bearing units and will report back.

  7. #17
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    Apr 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary C View Post
    Not tried it with my original DOS 6.1.1 disk yet as I dont want to damage it. Is their anyway to produce one from a PC or al a ADTpro ?
    https://youtu.be/JM_eW7h07ew

    You can also use IMD to read your current disks and make new disks. I think there's some IMD images out on the internet, but if you need any, i have IMD images of many OS boot disks as well.
    -- Brian

    Systems: Amstad PCW 8256, Apple IIe/II+/Mac+/Mac 512k, Atari 800/520STFM, Commodore 64/Amiga 3000/PET 4032/SX-64, IBM PS/1 2121-B82, Kaypro II, Osborne 1, Tandy 1000 SX, TI-99/4A, TRS-80 Model 4 GA

  8. #18
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    May 2018
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    Lancashire
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    Quote Originally Posted by pski View Post
    Drive 0 is on bottom and is the boot disk. Drive numbering is determined by the cabling. If you find a source for the bearings, please post the info as I have a number of these drives to rebuild.
    Also for UK customers https://www.hendersonbearings.co.uk/...4x5-8x5mm.html for the bottom bearings look like they will fit.

  9. #19
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    New bearings arrived, fitted and the spindle is now so smooth. Worth doing.

    The stepper motor bearings could probably also do with being replaced but that would lose the alignment so not really keen on doing that unless necessary. Is the alignment floppy generally available ?

    Connected up and given a brief test. Drive is being accessed but I cant hear the head stepping, but I left them at track 0 so probably dont need to until they see a disk.

    By look at the circuit, the motor on signal goes to both drives rather than just the one being accessed ? Both drive motors spin with only the LED on the lower one being lit


    Bit more testing required.

  10. #20
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    Apr 2018
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    Tezza has an article on aligning the tandon drives. I did it (without a scope or an alignment disk), it's pretty easy. The easiest way i found to do it was to set it as drive 0, do the adjustment, hit reset and see if it boots a good dos disk, if not then adjust a little more and repeat. I'm not sure if it's perfect alignment doing it this way, but it worked well enough.. you can use a scope or whatever to perfect it though.

    https://classic-computers.org.nz/blo...andon-m100.htm
    -- Brian

    Systems: Amstad PCW 8256, Apple IIe/II+/Mac+/Mac 512k, Atari 800/520STFM, Commodore 64/Amiga 3000/PET 4032/SX-64, IBM PS/1 2121-B82, Kaypro II, Osborne 1, Tandy 1000 SX, TI-99/4A, TRS-80 Model 4 GA

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