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Thread: Airbrushing a computer case

  1. #1
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    Default Airbrushing a computer case

    I bought a small "artist's" airbrush kit, compressor and all some years ago. Have yet to use it. Paasche or Badger, can't remember which. Is it impractical to spray a small mid tower, with Rustoleum? It would have to be thinned a bit, no? I could just buy a shaker can, but I have every R* color under the sun in a pop top can.

    Should I strip the case (it's black) and prime? Or just give it a good wet sanding, then perhaps lighten it with a coating of white? So my purple will look bright.

  2. #2
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    Ok, kind of looks impractical looking at a video.

    I suppose the only intermediary step between a small airbrush and a full on auto sprayer is a shaker can?

  3. #3
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    The condition of the current paint will be a factor if you need to strip it or just lightly sand it and repaint. Anything with major rust or dents and chip or groves probably needs stripped and unbent or filled in before painting. Also depends how nice you want it to look.
    What I collect: 68K/Early PPC Mac, DOS/Win 3.1 era machines, Amiga/ST, C64/128
    Nubus/ISA/VLB/MCA/EISA cards of all types
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  4. #4

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    I don't know anything about "airbrushing". But when I've spray-painted with Rust-Oleum, I usually, but not always, thin it with Xylol. I would probably expect to thin it 50% for this.

    Edit: just saw your other post; I'd probably just get a spray bomb. They work pretty well anyway.

  5. #5
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    A small dual-action airbrush will take a really long time to paint a computer case, and you will be more prone to putting streaks on because the jet width is so small. I use one for scale modelling but that's all.
    A larger HVLP or HPLV spraygun will be much better. I use both but for most jobs the HVLP ie high volume low pressure unit (an australian-made job from the 70s called 'The Little Beaver' I kid you not) works better for me as the compressor is extremely light and portable compared to the large shop compressor for the HPLV.

    Definately rub it back, wipe with Prepsol (paint surface prep cleaner) and put a base white coat over the black, if you want the top coat to be bright. For your situation I'd just go with some rattle cans.

  6. #6
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    How practical is powder coating in this case?

  7. #7
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    It's a cheap but adequate case (Raidmax). The steel is so impressively thin (not sarcasm, I like it) it might melt when they put it in an oven .

  8. #8
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    1944GPW - what sort of scale modelling? I've been a train buff all my life and plan to do some light manufacturing. One of these years .

  9. #9
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    I do scale military vehicles mostly these days (including 3D printing) but have also done unusual aircraft, some of my vac-forms are on this page http://www.unicraft.biz/uniphot3.htm and photos of these and others were published in a book.

  10. #10
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    I don't know how old you are (44? Born in '44? . But I have to ask if you remember Aurora tanks from the 70s? If they were available in Australia. I have to believe some if not many Aurora kits were available (Prehistoric Scenes, Movie monsters, etc.).

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