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Thread: My first Rev 0!

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
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    Yes. It’s the earlier more valuable bag.

  2. #22
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    Question - at what point do you give up on recovering keys via the ISP alcohol dropper + repeated pressing method?

    From about 90% non-functional, I have restored the keyboard to all but three stubborn keys, C, L and /. C seems to come and go intermittently - I had it working just before I posted this and kept typing with it and then it just stopped.

    I've been giving the keys about 5-6 hours in between cleaning attempts to allow the alcohol to evaporate. I've found sometimes just waiting it out yields working keys. But yeah.. these ones have consistently been a problem, and I've tried three times with them.

    I'm wondering too if there is a 'pro' fix for weak springs. A few of my keys suffer that. My workaround was to use springs from a PETs part keyboard that go around the flange of the keystem and then push up against the back of the keytop. Seems to work, albeit it makes the key a little more stiff. I did see this video on taking the whole switch apart.. but yeah... I don't think I've got the dexterity or patience for that.

    I do have a stockpile of spare keys here.. I just don't want to take anything original to the machine away unless absolutely necessary.

  3. #23
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    The switches can be rebuilt. SpeedyG on Applefritter has done it. Search there or PM him.

  4. #24
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    I seem to be down to just one switch that will not work at all - the slash. And since GNR carried on without Slash I'm not sure I need slash either.

    I did try taking apart a key from one of my parts keyboards but man... are they intricate. I'm going to try to figure it out with my fat fingers here this weekend and if I can rebuild one then I'll return slash to the lineup.

    Is there a reason why you wouldn't spray some deoxit or actual contact cleaner into the switch vs alcohol?

  5. #25

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    Whoooooawhoa sweet key of miyine.

    I wouldn't hesitate to do that but there might be something peculiar about these switches. ProGold should always be safe if not as potent.

  6. #26
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    I wondered if maybe other cleaners damaged the little plastic tab or other stuff inside the thing. I'm not remembering what all is in the switch body but I've seen a spring, a plastic membrane, a little piece of brass/copper, etc.

    The alcohol does seem to do a decent job. 90% of the keyboard on my Rev 02 didn't work either when I got it.. and it is still ok 2 years later. But yeah.. this one switch.. urgh. Was really hoping to not have to take a soldering iron to this otherwise unchanged machine.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    UK - Worcester
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    You don't want whatever you use to leave a residue.

    That will cause more problems than it solves.

    Dave

  8. #28
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    Dec 2011
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    Dallas, TX
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    If you have access to a large enough ultrasonic cleaner, you can consider dunking the whole keyboard in the bath, or if you have a smaller one, try suspending the keyboard vertically by a wire (or string), submerging just the end containing the bad key, blasting with ultrasound for half an hour or so, then following up by agitating the keyboard in an isopropanol bath, to remove any traces of detergent and water.

  9. #29
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    I actually have an ultrasonic cleaner from back when I had an inkjet refilling company. I should try that. In the event, I ended up swapping out the switch for now and I have full functionality.

    I am trying now to figure out what to do with this machine. Because it is pretty pristine I'm reluctant to upgrade it or alter it. Whole point is to have the Rev 0 experience. But it only has 16k... not a lot of road to drive on.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    East Coast USA
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    deOxit red is ok. Just messy as it sprays everywhere even with the tube that’s why I try ISP first.

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