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Thread: car broke down !

  1. #11

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    Haha, just this Friday, a month or so after getting the major issues with my replacement Bug sorted out, and a week after scrambling to line up a replacement for my brother's car, the lever on the door handle on my driver's-side door broke off Guess that's what 46 years of metal fatigue and a cold snap will do to you...fortunately, I can get in via the wing window, until such time as I get it sorted...
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  2. #12
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    Last year, my 2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue kept stalling on me as I was driving until June of this year. Replaced the spark plugs, O2 sensor on the catalytic converter, replaced the t-stat, flushed the cooling system, replaced the power steering pump and reservoir assembly, got the oil changed, replaced the gas cap, purge solenoid for the EVAP system, and replaced a couple of other things, including the battery. The car ran fine, then stalled a couple more times several months ago until I found the source of the problem: fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor malfunction, code P0446. After replacing that part and fixing the exhaust, hasn't stalled and no engine light for 5 months straight. Had a coil spring rub against my driver's side tire and blew the tire. The fuel gauge is still broken and will be replaced sometime this week by me (need to buy the fuel tank lock tool, fuel line quick disconnect tool, and the necessary parts), plus, the ABS is out (passenger front wheel hub assembly) so I would need to get mounting bolts, wheel hub removal/installation tool, anti-seize (lots of it), axle spindle nut, and the socket to remove the old one off and the rest of the suspension needs repairs.

    Got 122,250 or so miles on it currently and still runs perfectly fine.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gary C View Post
    Now the bloody dishwasher has stopped heating up !
    My car has an oil leak which I need to get looked at sooner or later. 2002 Dodge Intrepid but only 55K miles.

    The washing machine was dumping water all over the floor a couple weeks back. I took it apart and found a hole in the plastic pump so replaced that myself ($20 shipped for the new pump) and works like new.
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  4. #14
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    Jan 2005
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    Principality of Xeon the Great State of Central New Jerky
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    My ABS light *was* out. I suspect the bulb blew, as the no Trac light is still on, both the result of a torn harness on the wheel bearing. I rigged it all up to get it inspected, we only have emissions and dashboard warning light inspection hear in NJ. I replaced the bearing since but was in a hurry and didnt bother to connect the harness.

    My Grand Prix has a very good running 3800 and tranny, 160k. Runs dreamy most of the time, a bit growly at startup sometimes. Uh but still haven't changed plugs and wires 8o. Got it with 126k on it. The suspension issues are bringing me down. I could take upwards of 1000$ and buy a whole new everything. Not sure its worth it at this point.

    Had some intermittent lifter noise. Been consistently using Pennzoil high mileage. Haven't heard it in a while.

    Oh didn't I mention the rocker arm cover in front leaks oil? When oil is new it birns off for a while, often smell it, even see smoke sometimes. They keep sending me recall notices. I bought the gaskets myself over 3 years ago

  5. #15
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    Since we are comparing running mileage. My 2002 Santa Fe that I gave to my dad for his business is still running. It has ~300k miles on it. It has been services pretty much as the manufacturer suggests, and has needed very little other repairs. Hell AFIK the spark plugs are still the original ones that came with the car (though they have been checked and cleaned several times). I suspect the thing will go for another 300k miles if my dad keeps up the maintenance.

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  6. #16

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    I am curious as to how long you drove it with the rear brake squealing? Drum brake squealing means metal to metal contact. Disk brake squealing usually means glazed disk or missing anti squeal shims. When disk brakes go metal to metal, it makes a scraping, scratchy, sound.
    Dwight

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Lancashire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight Elvey View Post
    I am curious as to how long you drove it with the rear brake squealing? Drum brake squealing means metal to metal contact. Disk brake squealing usually means glazed disk or missing anti squeal shims. When disk brakes go metal to metal, it makes a scraping, scratchy, sound.
    Dwight
    There was no noise at all.

    The handbrake lever was a bit high but it still all worked. I only noticed when I went to adjust the handbrake travel an noticed the balance bar was at at 40 degrees indicating much more wear in the right hand brake.

    On disassembly, the shoe's handbrake lever pivot was seized so that it needed a strong pull to get it to engage and every time I let the handbrake off, it held it with a small pressure onto the drum. As such it worked, but wore out quickly. In 30K miles the rivets were just about to touch metal. Oddly, the drum itself seemed to have worn down faster than the shoes ! The lip in the drum then made it very difficult to remove as the pads sat in the groove and forcing it off damaged the slave cylinder.

    Anyway, all sorted now and the handbrake feels much better than it did when it was new.

    So today

    New drum, shoes & slave cylinder on the Polo. MOT and car tax paid

    New heater installed into the dishwasher, now heating up

    So I then had a play with the FD-55FR drive I had got for my BBC when I heard a 'sizzling' sound and a bit of smoke drifted past
    RIFA had expired, but had some spares from the TRS-80, now fitted and working.
    Disk drive now works too !

    A good day all round

  8. #18

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    So the rivets were close but not rubbing. That explains no noise. Does it have an automatic adjuster? ( you know that star wheel on the threaded shaft )
    Anyway, it sounds like a stuck cable. Make sure it is free or you'll have the same problem soon.
    Dwight

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by commodorejohn View Post
    Haha, just this Friday, a month or so after getting the major issues with my replacement Bug sorted out, and a week after scrambling to line up a replacement for my brother's car, the lever on the door handle on my driver's-side door broke off Guess that's what 46 years of metal fatigue and a cold snap will do to you...fortunately, I can get in via the wing window, until such time as I get it sorted...
    The vent window latch on my Bug snapped after about 50 years. Lousy German engineering! I was expecting it to last at least 75 years!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    Lancashire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dwight Elvey View Post
    So the rivets were close but not rubbing. That explains no noise. Does it have an automatic adjuster? ( you know that star wheel on the threaded shaft )
    Anyway, it sounds like a stuck cable. Make sure it is free or you'll have the same problem soon.
    Dwight
    The cable was fine, it was the lever (black arrow) that connects on a pivot at the top of the left hand shoe and connects to the cable. On the old shoe, it was solid, on the new it was free to move. The automatic adjuster on these brakes is a wedge shaped bit that sits between the right hand pad and the top bar (red arrow), it drops under spring tension to fill the gap.

    brake.jpg

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