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Thread: First YouTube video experience

  1. #101
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    Well, I'm a twit.

    Over the last 10 years I've had a couple of 'Youtube' accounts with different gmail addresses I had and lost. Anyway, in an effort to clean up, I decided to delete one said account as I was aiming to bring it all down to one. Instead, I managed to take out all three, including my main youtube channel which was starting to have some traction.

    Anyway, there's no hope of recovery.. youtube doesn't do that anymore. I still have the videos so those aren't lost.. just views and subscribers. So I guess I have to decide if I'm going to restart it, and if so if I shouldn't maybe give it a better name. The 'BradH' moniker simply came because that was the default when it used to require you to create a channel to comment.

    I'm wondering if it makes sense to just go with a generic name like 'vintage computer stuff', which ties to a website I have, or if I should be a little more creative? Not sure how channel names play into search.

  2. #102

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    Maybe this will help?

    Recover a recently deleted Google Account:
    https://support.google.com/accounts/.../6236295?hl=en

  3. #103
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    Thanks!! This happened in the context of trying to move my channel to a brand channel and separating my old personal videos from.the rest while deleting some orphaned accounts. I found a support forum where someone passes the old channel links up to tech people where branding is involved and they've often been able to restore. Cross fingers.

  4. #104
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    Okay so - new question. Is there a way, when filming an old composite monitor, to do away with the 'band' that constantly moves up/down the screen? I assume because the camera is too fast for the monitor?

    Youtube was not able to recover my channel after whatever happened happened, so I've had to start anew. If you were watching/subscribed before I apologize. New channel is here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0U...16vw7b638_-pg/

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by falter View Post
    Okay so - new question. Is there a way, when filming an old composite monitor, to do away with the 'band' that constantly moves up/down the screen? I assume because the camera is too fast for the monitor?
    Fix your shutter speed at 60hz and it should go away.
    My Retro-computing YouTube Channel (updates... eventually?): Paleozoic PCs

  6. #106
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    Hmm.. I don't think it'll let me do that.. I'm shooting with a Galaxy Note 10+... I can control FPS but I don't think hz.

  7. #107
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    So when you say "band" do you mean a dark area where the screen contents aren't visible that's slowly rolling across the visual area, or an unusually bright area on an otherwise viewable display?

    If you're getting the former, do you have very strong lights turned up in the room? Basically what's going on in that case is even though you might have the frame rate set at something basically compatible like 30 or 60hz the exposure is shorter than the time it takes for the electron beam to sweep the whole screen, so you just keep catching a lit fragment of it. (And of course since your camera and the CRT are unlikely to be perfectly in sync that bit of lit area slowly cycles.) If you turn down the ambient light then the exposure time should go up and you'll get a more solid picture, but of course it'll be harder to film things that are *not* the CRT if you want both clear at the same time. If the camera doesn't let you fiddle with forcing a longer exposure time (maybe by trading off ISO sensitivity or whatever) then... yeah, it's a pain in the neck.
    My Retro-computing YouTube Channel (updates... eventually?): Paleozoic PCs

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by falter View Post
    Hmm.. I don't think it'll let me do that.. I'm shooting with a Galaxy Note 10+... I can control FPS but I don't think hz.
    OpenCamera should let you fix your shutter speed at 1/60 which should minimize the moving band you're seeing in the recorded video. It won't eliminate it, since the band is actually firing at 59.94 Hz (or 59.92 Hz if shooting a CGA-connected monitor), but it will minimize it.

    "Real Cameras" (costing over $1000) have options to set the shutter speed either in single-place decimals (like "59.9") such as the Panasonic GH5 or GH5s, or in 1/360-degree shutter angle increments such as the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4k. These are exact enough that they pretty much eliminate the band from just about any video mode refresh rate, but of course they cost you.
    Offering a bounty for:
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    - Music Construction Set, IBM Music Feature edition (has red sticker on front stating IBM Music Feature)

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eudimorphodon View Post
    So when you say "band" do you mean a dark area where the screen contents aren't visible that's slowly rolling across the visual area, or an unusually bright area on an otherwise viewable display?

    If you're getting the former, do you have very strong lights turned up in the room? Basically what's going on in that case is even though you might have the frame rate set at something basically compatible like 30 or 60hz the exposure is shorter than the time it takes for the electron beam to sweep the whole screen, so you just keep catching a lit fragment of it. (And of course since your camera and the CRT are unlikely to be perfectly in sync that bit of lit area slowly cycles.) If you turn down the ambient light then the exposure time should go up and you'll get a more solid picture, but of course it'll be harder to film things that are *not* the CRT if you want both clear at the same time. If the camera doesn't let you fiddle with forcing a longer exposure time (maybe by trading off ISO sensitivity or whatever) then... yeah, it's a pain in the neck.
    Yes... I did this video using a Sanyo VM4509 and it's a rolling 'bar' where the text dims.

    I'm going to try what Trixter suggested (thank you, Trixter) with Open Camera instead of the default Samsung app and see if that improves matters.

  10. #110
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    Looking at the video, the bar is half the size of the screen, so this is clearly a shutter issue: Shutter was 1/30th, or 30fps. Hopefully OpenCamera will help. (The program isn't the most intuitive, but IIRC the shutter stuff is in the +/- "box" at the top. Put it on "m", then modify shutter slider to 1/60, then modify ISO to account for brightness.
    Offering a bounty for:
    - A working Sanyo MBC-775, Olivetti M24, or Logabax 1600
    - Music Construction Set, IBM Music Feature edition (has red sticker on front stating IBM Music Feature)

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