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Thread: PC case rust repair

  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkdonut666 View Post
    (I didn't paint the black bezel in this photo i actually found a beige bezel that matched the floppy drive better.
    FYI, I think it came from the factory with the black bezel hard drive. That's how my Model D looks.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamin Joe View Post
    Has anyone else ever given serious thought to using vinyl dye
    I have had EXTREMELY mixed success with vinyl dye over the years... I work in the auto industry and we use it on hot-rods and custom interiors all the time. It can be very hit or miss. I'm sure it depends on the type of plastic, but overall it's extremely similar results to using a good plastic adhesion spray paint in my experience.

    We had a customer's center console lid that had duplicolor vinyl dye applied, and it slowly started to turn brown where it was touched. I've also seen fingerprints from sweaty hands leave impressions in the stuff.

    which is similar to my experience with painting keyboard body's and game controllers. I used to play with stuff like that in highschool, and the paint would seen to melt in my hands, especially when heat / sweat was brought into the equation. I still have a Super nintendo that I painted black & red (it wasn't even yellowed -_- ) and I did the controllers to match. even to this day the power and reset switches are kinda gooey and the controllers have hand impressions and finger prints in the paint. That stuff was "bonds to plastic" Krylon paint. So i really don't want a repeat of that.

    when it comes to the plastic cracking, it's not something I've seen huge evidence for, and I really wonder if it again, depends on the type of plastic, and the method for retrobriting that is being used. That being said, I have never tried it for myself, and I'm still on the fence as to if I'm going to bother.

    I'm not collecting this stuff as a museum effort, I just like playing with this stuff. The Leading edge was a recycling rescue, and it was never going to be perfect after the way it was treated in it's past life.

  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stinkpot View Post
    FYI, I think it came from the factory with the black bezel hard drive. That's how my Model D looks.
    that's interesting, I had assumed it was an upgrade. the way the MFM card and cables were just kinda tossed in there (not to mention i don't think 1 of the 4 screws holding the hard drive in matched) I figured it was orginally a dual floppy machine that had been upgraded to a hard drive after the fact, and someone had just slapped an ST225 drive in there with the black bezel. I can't belive the "no F**s given" attitude towards upgrading PCs I've seen in some machines from the 80s. Espically with how expensive this stuff was. /rant

    I honestly was going to leave it like that, and I may put it back that way if I can get the ST225 to work. I have a feeling the machine was tossed around a lot, and possibly stored outside. the ST225 was behaving extremely strangely, so i swapped it out for another known working 3.5" MFM drive i had. I will play more with it later.

  4. #24
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    I don't think anyone understands the yellowing phenomenon. The real dark stuff comes off with Fantastic. I once laid a warm coffee mug on top of a moderately yellowed Tandy 2000 case, which left a white ring, that disappeared before long. Perhaps soaking some plastics in hot water will eliminate yellowing? And if in the immediate peroxide seems the only way to go, as I've said maybe a progressive very dilute sution is the way to go. 8bit guy pours peroxide in a water bath.

  5. #25
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    Museums including the Smithsonian coat precious items such as coins, leather, machinery and so on in stuff called 'renaissance wax' to reduce oxidation. Has anyone tried it on PC cases and plastics? It's not cheap unfortunately.

  6. #26
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    Another question is when the ICs on all these machines burn out and so do we will there still be a community "collecting" them just for display purposes?

  7. #27
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    Fpga representaions. Or recycle all the old plastics and go back to emulators.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by tipc View Post
    In general if it can be melted, it can be remelted. I imagine in cases if subatances are depleted, they can be replaced? No one is going to melt down computer case components, that wasn't the point. My thinking was surface defects can be smoothed over so to speak. Whether by application of heat or solvents.
    Thermoset plastics are a one shot deal.
    What I collect: 68K/Early PPC Mac, DOS/Win 3.1 era machines, Amiga/ST, C64/128
    Nubus/ISA/VLB/MCA/EISA cards of all types
    Boxed apps and games for the above systems
    Analog video capture cards/software and complete systems

  9. #29
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    Thanks for mentioning that, @Unknown_K.

    Acrylic can be flame-polished, but that's not the same thing.

    Where are the 3D printer enthusiasts?

  10. #30
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    Most pc bezels, monitor casings etc. are thermoplastics afaik and hence they can be remelted or molded.

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