Image Map Image Map
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 63

Thread: PC case rust repair

Hybrid View

Previous Post Previous Post   Next Post Next Post
  1. #1

    Default PC case rust repair

    So recently I picked up a leading edge Model D that had been dumped off at a recycling center.



    As you can see the machine was in very sorry shape. I was able to get it completely functional hardware wise, but I really wanted to do something about the case.



    So I ground down the rusted areas with a 3M roloc disc on an air die grinder, there was actually alot of small bubbles that hid large rust patches underneath the paint.



    I used this Product to neutralize any of the rust that remained. It's basically just phosphoric acid & isopropyl alcohol. The phosphoric acid turns the Iron oxide to iron phosphate (black shale like) and stops it from spreading. I didn't wanna have it bubbling up again.




    and this is the somewhat finished product after a few coats of Rustolium 2X ivory Bisque spray paint. looks pretty good IMO.

    now the question is whether or not I want to attempt to retr0brite the front bezel & keyboard. I'm going to leave it until the weather warms up at the very least (-20c here with 2feet of snow) so not ideal weather for retr0briting outside. But even then , not sure if i'm going to bother. The yellowing sorta gives this machine an aged charm. so I'm on the fence.


    (I didn't paint the black bezel in this photo i actually found a beige bezel that matched the floppy drive better.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Posts
    34,146
    Blog Entries
    18

    Default

    You may just want to repaint the bezel in a water-based acrylic paint. That will seal it and help retard further degradation. Just mask off the badge.

  3. #3

    Default

    Nice work on the cover. Personally, I'd just leave the bezels. In certain cases, retr0bright lost it's effectiveness in a rather short time (or you could paint those as well---as suggested above):

    https://www.classic-computers.org.nz...-temporary.htm

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    2,722

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by T-R-A View Post
    Nice work on the cover. Personally, I'd just leave the bezels. In certain cases, retr0bright lost it's effectiveness in a rather short time (or you could paint those as well---as suggested above):

    https://www.classic-computers.org.nz...-temporary.htm
    Possibly could lose luster over time but not always. Seems to depend on the type of plastic. Honestly the front bezel is a small piece and would be easy to retrobright. I just bought a lamp to build my 3rd indoor retrobright cabinet. Its pretty easy at this point.

  5. #5

    Default

    I've never Attempted to retr0brite anything before, and I have many "ripe" yellow computers lol

    My concern was with the keyboard. I could paint the front of the case, but then they keyboard wouldn't match.

    I really really don't like painting keyboards or game controllers. anything that your hands touch i've found paint does not react very well. The paint softens up and smudges in my experience. So I want to avoid even painting the keyboard bezel.

    I don't mind the yellow, and I feel i'll probably leave it that way for now, and maybe in the summertime i'll experiment with the front bezel of the computer if i'm feeling adventurous

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Posts
    34,146
    Blog Entries
    18

    Default

    You did see the notice by the museum conservators rejecting the Retr0brite treatment--it apparently cause small cracks in the plastic surface. But hey, a Model D isn't as rare as a 2 cent Inverted Jenny...

    On the other hand, a museum conservator is more interested in appearance, rather than actually trying to use the thing.

    Paint resists handling very well, if it's the right type. Witness my F85:



    That's paint over high-density polyurethane foam.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Principality of Xeon W-2140B the Great State of Central New Jerky
    Posts
    1,850

    Default

    If there's cracking perhaps they could be sealed up with the application of heat? Or a solvent dabbed on?

    You can leave things out in the sun and rain to alleviate yellowing.

    Repainting metal is easy. It's obtaining the gritty texture that's currently a mystery to me.

    3rs edit. Maybe multiple gentler applications of retrobrite may rest in less or no cracking. A weaker solution iow.
    Last edited by tipc; February 16th, 2020 at 01:12 PM.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pinkdonut666 View Post
    (I didn't paint the black bezel in this photo i actually found a beige bezel that matched the floppy drive better.
    FYI, I think it came from the factory with the black bezel hard drive. That's how my Model D looks.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stinkpot View Post
    FYI, I think it came from the factory with the black bezel hard drive. That's how my Model D looks.
    that's interesting, I had assumed it was an upgrade. the way the MFM card and cables were just kinda tossed in there (not to mention i don't think 1 of the 4 screws holding the hard drive in matched) I figured it was orginally a dual floppy machine that had been upgraded to a hard drive after the fact, and someone had just slapped an ST225 drive in there with the black bezel. I can't belive the "no F**s given" attitude towards upgrading PCs I've seen in some machines from the 80s. Espically with how expensive this stuff was. /rant

    I honestly was going to leave it like that, and I may put it back that way if I can get the ST225 to work. I have a feeling the machine was tossed around a lot, and possibly stored outside. the ST225 was behaving extremely strangely, so i swapped it out for another known working 3.5" MFM drive i had. I will play more with it later.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Principality of Xeon W-2140B the Great State of Central New Jerky
    Posts
    1,850

    Default

    I don't think anyone understands the yellowing phenomenon. The real dark stuff comes off with Fantastic. I once laid a warm coffee mug on top of a moderately yellowed Tandy 2000 case, which left a white ring, that disappeared before long. Perhaps soaking some plastics in hot water will eliminate yellowing? And if in the immediate peroxide seems the only way to go, as I've said maybe a progressive very dilute sution is the way to go. 8bit guy pours peroxide in a water bath.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •