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Thread: Motherboard corrosion repair questions and advice

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stone View Post
    Are you (personally) able to do repairs via vias?

    Have you ever done this type of proposed repair?
    No. I've seen one of my colleagues do it. I don't have the eye sight or steady hands required

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck(G) View Post
    One can but hope. The words of our senior engineer still echo in my head "a printed circuit board is no place for a battery". That was almost 50 years ago.
    Imagine the world today if people had listened to that guy. AT form factor motherboards of all types would be cheap and plentiful, all still undamaged and working

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stone View Post
    Are you (personally) able to do repairs via vias?

    Have you ever done this type of proposed repair?

    If you have actually done this you are wasting your talents and should be doing laparoscopic brain surgery instead.

    And if you're just speculating...
    I've done such repairs, and this board isn't worth it, unless you want the frustration and practice.

    You'd have to tear off all major components on the upper portion of the board to inspect for surface damage, which can take hours just to remove the components.

    Without a schematic, you'd have to blindly meticulously check every trace you can, and use component pins and knowledge of circuitry around them to work out where traces on components go on the board and make sure they aren't broken or in a weird state due to corrosion.

    I have fixed two badly damaged boards from battery goo, but it took weeks per board because you can only stare at tiny traces so long per session.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stone View Post
    Are you (personally) able to do repairs via vias?

    Have you ever done this type of proposed repair?

    If you have actually done this you are wasting your talents and should be doing laparoscopic brain surgery instead.

    And if you're just speculating...
    I think the point was though, it is not about being about to repair vias that pass to and between the layers of the multi-layer PCB. Its about being able to possibly visualize through transillumination where the tracks connect.

    After all , none of the physical components are inside the pcb layers, they are all on just two surfaces.

    So in theory at least, if you could trace the tracks & vias, you could bypass the defective ones with link wires.

    Of course if you had the schematic you could do it too, but as computer technology progressed many MFR's didn't release the schematics.

    This is why I love my old IBM and s-100 computers, everything was published (mostly), board layouts and schematics, it is just wonderful. But a computer mobo made 30 years later, the data is not usually there.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by GiGaBiTe View Post
    I've done such repairs, and this board isn't worth it, unless you want the frustration and practice.

    You'd have to tear off all major components on the upper portion of the board to inspect for surface damage, which can take hours just to remove the components.

    Without a schematic, you'd have to blindly meticulously check every trace you can, and use component pins and knowledge of circuitry around them to work out where traces on components go on the board and make sure they aren't broken or in a weird state due to corrosion.

    I have fixed two badly damaged boards from battery goo, but it took weeks per board because you can only stare at tiny traces so long per session.
    IOW, it's a nonstarter unless the board in question is actually worth big bucks or you have some sort of attachment to that particular board that far supersedes all time and money considerations. Even then you would need to have an overwhelming dose of diligence and devotion to complete a project like this one would present.
    PM me if you're looking for 3" or 5" floppy disks. EMail For everything else, Take Another Step

  6. #16
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    Oct 2017
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    Board arrived yesterday and removed some, but not all corrosion (or removed, but ate the coating on the I/O port headers, jumper headers, and PSU power connector).

    http://imgur.com/a/6x76EzF

    Board photos (last photo is the battery). Going to add a CR2032 battery holder and a diode to prevent the battery from charging.
    Current retro systems:
    Commodore 64 Breadbin 250407 Rev. C
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  7. #17

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    Does the board work? Once again, if it doesn't, adding a battery isn't going to make it work. It doesn't make sense to replace the battery until you can get some life from that board.
    PM me if you're looking for 3" or 5" floppy disks. EMail For everything else, Take Another Step

  8. #18
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    Oct 2017
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    SE Michigan, USA
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    I need to remove more corrosion and I'm out of DeoxIt D5 to remove the oxidation from the headers. I will test the board and see what happens. I currently have no manual for the board to set the CPU to 100MHz at 5V.

  9. #19
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    I wonder how many motherboards could have been saved from corrosion had the manufacturer done something simple, such as placing the battery in a plastic "bowl" to catch leakage. Not perfect, but perhaps a damned sight better. Probably would have added a dime to cost of the board.

  10. #20

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    the original AT design (and the XT-286) had the sense to use a lithium primary that was separate from the board, if only the clones had followed suit instead of trying to use god awful rechargeables

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