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Thread: TRS 80 Non Gate array

  1. #41
    Join Date
    May 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by ngtwolf View Post
    If it's this kind, you could try contact cleaner but it could go either way.. i'm thinking it'll just make it worse, honestly.
    Contact cleaner *might* work? I would be kind of worried about it melting the little rubber dome, though?

    It's unfortunate that the Tandy keyboard doesn't let you get inside the switches without desoldering them, no denying that. The Commodore PET uses a keyboard that's electrically similar (a conductive rubber contact pressed against an electrode) but thankfully *much* easier to get inside, and I recall with little fondness how annoying it was to get the invisible oxidation off the contacts to get a board that was basically completely dead working again. Didn't have to *replace* anything, just cleaned both the PCB that carries the contacts and the little rubber feet on the bottom of the key plungers. (Which act the same as the center of those rubber domes.)
    My Retro-computing YouTube Channel (updates... eventually?): Paleozoic PCs

  2. #42
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    Apr 2018
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    Los Angeles, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by abruno17 View Post
    Your Amstrad PCW keyboard uses the exact same design Iím talking about.
    Ahh, i've never opened that keyboard up.. Its always worked.
    -- Brian

    Systems: Amstad PCW 8256, Apple IIe/II+/GS/Mac+/Mac 512k, Atari 800/520STFM, Commodore 64/128/Amiga 3000/PET 4032/SX-64, IBM PS/1 2121-B82, Kaypro II, Osborne 1, Tandy 1000 SX, TI-99/4A, Timex Sinclair 1000, TRS-80 Color Computer 3/Model 4 GA

  3. #43
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    Apr 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eudimorphodon View Post
    Contact cleaner *might* work? I would be kind of worried about it melting the little rubber dome, though?

    It's unfortunate that the Tandy keyboard doesn't let you get inside the switches without desoldering them, no denying that. The Commodore PET uses a keyboard that's electrically similar (a conductive rubber contact pressed against an electrode) but thankfully *much* easier to get inside, and I recall with little fondness how annoying it was to get the invisible oxidation off the contacts to get a board that was basically completely dead working again. Didn't have to *replace* anything, just cleaned both the PCB that carries the contacts and the little rubber feet on the bottom of the key plungers. (Which act the same as the center of those rubber domes.)
    Yeah, i've repaired both the PET 4032 and the TRS-80 keyboards and the Pet was much easier. For both I did the silver conductive paint method and tested with a multimeter before reassembling since I didn't want to mess with it again for years . The few that I had higher resistance that I couldn't bring down as much, i moved to lesser used keys. I'm not sure how this keyboard is he has works, but that might be an option... move the problematic one to a lesser used key.

    Luckily I had a desoldering gun, so the keyboard repair was pretty quick.. I would never want to do that without one though.
    -- Brian

    Systems: Amstad PCW 8256, Apple IIe/II+/GS/Mac+/Mac 512k, Atari 800/520STFM, Commodore 64/128/Amiga 3000/PET 4032/SX-64, IBM PS/1 2121-B82, Kaypro II, Osborne 1, Tandy 1000 SX, TI-99/4A, Timex Sinclair 1000, TRS-80 Color Computer 3/Model 4 GA

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