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Thread: Has anyone else encountered the inexplicable wrong-size stuck screw?

  1. #1

    Angry Has anyone else encountered the inexplicable wrong-size stuck screw?

    I'm working on getting a keyboard freed from an old luggable and one screw in a deep channel won't come out. It appears stuck in the channel. I eventually realize it's not actually holding the keyboard on, get the keyboard off, and get the screw out of the channel by simultaneously turning it from above and pushing it back out of the channel from the bottom. Here's what I find:

    screwed2.jpg

    The screw on the left is from the next screw hole over and is the original size screw. The larger screw on the right is the stuck screw. The larger screw didn't go into the matching screw hole in the keyboard very far, if it all, because a properly sized screw like the one on the left still threads into and holds in it.

    Who just picks a random screw of a different size and tries to twist it in there? Anyone else have horror stories about stuck screws and tricks to get them out?

  2. #2
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    I know that guy!

    He has no concept of thread diameter and pitch.
    Only length mattered.

    I spent many hours removing seized screws from equipment racks at the next equipment refresh.

    joe

  3. #3
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    Been there. Was the chassis sheet metal or aluminum. I have purchased a cheap tap and die set in the past and had ZERO luck with it.. I am guessing because it was a cheap set. So I think you would need an actual expensive good set to tap a new hole and put in a proper machine screw.

    To be honest that is just the type of repair I would have done as a teenager. Just force it in!

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    Quote Originally Posted by charnitz View Post
    I'm working on getting a keyboard freed from an old luggable and one screw in a deep channel won't come out. It appears stuck in the channel. I eventually realize it's not actually holding the keyboard on, get the keyboard off, and get the screw out of the channel by simultaneously turning it from above and pushing it back out of the channel from the bottom. Here's what I find:

    screwed2.jpg

    The screw on the left is from the next screw hole over and is the original size screw. The larger screw on the right is the stuck screw. The larger screw didn't go into the matching screw hole in the keyboard very far, if it all, because a properly sized screw like the one on the left still threads into and holds in it.

    Who just picks a random screw of a different size and tries to twist it in there? Anyone else have horror stories about stuck screws and tricks to get them out?
    Don't want to hijack this thread but on the 'screw' front. I have a granddaughter that lives in Utah who gets a package of screws in the mail on a regular basis. She or her husband never ordered them and then are never sent a bill or asked to pay for them. So has quite a collection.
    Surely not everyone was Kung-fu fighting

  5. #5
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    I am quite guilty of using the wrong fastener, but it's always the correct thread.

    Slot, phillips, allen, truss, button, cap... it doesn't matter as long as thread matches and it's close enough to the correct length!

    This is for computers/equipment where I'm not worried about originality of course. Only a barbarian would use cap head allen screws on an old Tandy!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent Orange View Post
    Don't want to hijack this thread but on the 'screw' front. I have a granddaughter that lives in Utah who gets a package of screws in the mail on a regular basis. She or her husband never ordered them and then are never sent a bill or asked to pay for them. So has quite a collection.
    Something like the Jelly of the month club?

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    One might put the shoe on the other foot and ask why computer manufacturers persisted so long in mixing SAE and metric fasteners in the same box. Vaguely reminiscent of my made-in-Canada Ford F150--you need both sets of tools to work on that beast. 10 mm or 7/16"? It depends...

    Some of the clone cases used cheap steel so that case screws stripped out easily. I used to substitute M5 for 8-32 in those cases, but even that was stopgap. Finally put a halt to it by fitting 8-32 rivnuts in the case.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent Orange View Post
    Don't want to hijack this thread but on the 'screw' front. I have a granddaughter that lives in Utah who gets a package of screws in the mail on a regular basis. She or her husband never ordered them and then are never sent a bill or asked to pay for them. So has quite a collection.
    It's probably a Chinese brushing scam. Chinese sellers acquire information about people in the US and send them random packages so they can make fake reviews about their products on their online storefront.

    https://www.newsweek.com/seeds-myste...g-scam-1522999

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by jlang View Post
    I know that guy!
    He has no concept of thread diameter and pitch.
    Only length mattered.


    Quote Originally Posted by VERAULT View Post
    Was the chassis sheet metal or aluminum.
    The chassis is plastic, but right at the bottom of the channel there is some black material, hard to tell what it is, that the screw threads through before it goes into the bore on the keyboard. I don't know what the right word is for threads on the connecting part before it goes into the bore of the other part? This is what the screw was stuck in and why it wouldn't come out of the channel without being pushed out from below.

    The keyboard bore itself looks like brass or some shiny yellow metal. The keyboard bore is OK because the overly large screw never actually got into it, it just hung up and probably pushed the keyboard away in that spot.

    Quote Originally Posted by TheDrip View Post
    I am quite guilty of using the wrong fastener, but it's always the correct thread.
    Slot, phillips, allen, truss, button, cap... it doesn't matter as long as thread matches and it's close enough to the correct length!
    Well in my case, all the original screws on the machine are phillips, but the miscreant in my case used a combination slot/philips head in addition to not using the correct thread size, which should have been my first clue to his dirty deed.

  10. #10
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    Probably a brass insert--that's good. Get out your tap set and thread all the rest to agree then get some matching screws. With the shades drawn and the lights out, nobody will ever notice...

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