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Removing Yellowing from Plastics - Part 4

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    #31
    I might have to try this over Labor Day weekend in the sun, I have no practical UV lamp source that I could shine over the item being treated.

    Glycerin, I can see why it's a needed part. I made and applied the mixture three hours ago and it still isn't dried out. I just coat the entire thing in the gel, but it was hard to do until it set up a bit.

    Oh, and I forgot to mention that the last experiment I tried DID remove several brown splotches that were a product of yellowing, it's just not yellow itself.

    Comment


      #32
      Well, if it's any help, Lorne doesn't need a UV lamp but then again, he does live in Arizona, so lack of UV is not an issue!!

      Keep us posted and we will help you until you get the swing of it.
      Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

      Comment


        #33
        Thanks

        Lorne, Merlin,

        Thanks for the replies! I guess I'll have to try one of the two methods soon and will let you know how it goes. And yes, I'll try to take pics!

        -F

        Comment


          #34
          Well, I decided to go back to Retr0bright's early days and just let it soak in 12% peroxide. The mouse is simply just too curved and everything I put on it ran right off. It's not like an Amiga mouse, or even an original ADB mouse.

          I'm still thinking I should put some Oxy in the mix, though, as I'm thinking it would take several days to change with just peroxide.

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by Tupin View Post
            Well, I decided to go back to Retr0bright's early days and just let it soak in 12% peroxide. The mouse is simply just too curved and everything I put on it ran right off. It's not like an Amiga mouse, or even an original ADB mouse.

            I'm still thinking I should put some Oxy in the mix, though, as I'm thinking it would take several days to change with just peroxide.
            You need to go back and read parts 1, 2 and 3, and take notes.
            The Oxy is what makes it work.
            Put some Oxy in there (not too much), and give it a little stir, otherwise you're just wasting H2O2 (good thing you got the stuff cheap).

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              #36
              Yeah, I figured that out pretty soon, mixed in some oxy, and it's been bubbling for hours.

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                #37
                Originally posted by Tupin View Post
                Yeah, I figured that out pretty soon, mixed in some oxy, and it's been bubbling for hours.
                Good; that means the TAED is breaking down the peroxide. Now all you need is enough UV light to vibrate and break off the oxygen atoms from the bromine atoms in the flame retardant.
                Last edited by Merlin; September 18, 2009, 04:59 AM.
                Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

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                  #38
                  Bad time for that, it's an overcast and rainy day.

                  Would putting it directly under a normal lightbulb work?

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by Tupin View Post

                    Would putting it directly under a normal lightbulb work?
                    You've got to be joking right?
                    Or maybe you're just pulling our leg?

                    If not - go read parts 1, 2 & 3.
                    Seriously.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Yeah, I was. Still, I'm going to go read those threads.

                      Comment


                        #41
                        If you don't want to wade through the threads, the URL http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com summarises a lot of knowledge on this process to date.

                        Tez
                        ------------------------------------------------
                        My vintage collection: https://classic-computers.org.nz/collection/
                        My vintage activities blog: https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/
                        Twitter: @classiccomputNZ ; YouTube Videos: (click here)

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Wow, I must have not been thinking, I just got a UV lightbulb from Home Depot for $5.

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by Tupin View Post
                            Wow, I must have not been thinking, I just got a UV lightbulb from Home Depot for $5.
                            Hopefully, you've read parts 1, 2 & 3 by now.
                            Those parts contain the information that tells you which UV lights seem to work better than others, and I suspect a $ 5 bulb from Home Depot isn't going to cut it.
                            I'm glad you got that H2O2 real cheap - you're probably going to need to buy more, the way you're going about it.
                            After your kidding with us, now I'm actually getting a laugh out of this.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Hey, I'm new at this, okay?

                              I appreciate all of the help, and I'm going to get this to work no matter what.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by Tupin View Post
                                Wow, I must have not been thinking, I just got a UV lightbulb from Home Depot for $5.
                                There's many a true word spoken in jest, so they say.....

                                My guess is that you weren't a science major, were you? Your $5 black light may work; all you are going to lose is the current mix of peroxide.

                                Keep the bulb about 12 inches from the part, you don't want the heat getting transferred to the part or you will get distortion.

                                I was one told "Read everything, before doing anything."

                                It's good advice.... from the guy that wrote the Wiki, in case you hadn't noticed.....
                                Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

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