Announcement

Collapse

Forum Rules and Etiquette

Our mission ...

This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


Rule 1: Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.


Rule 2: Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.



Rule 3: Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.


Rule 4: "PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.


Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.


New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.


Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
See more
See less

Removing Yellowing from Plastics - Part 4

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #61
    I have a Beige unit and the keys are more gray than those that you've given the 3 day bath to in post #59.
    I'm wondering if they had 'soaked' maybe too long. Perhaps 1 or 2 days would have left them a bit grayer and saved some of the fading of the letters on the keys.
    Just thinking out loud here
    _________________________________________________
    Real programmers don't document.
    If it was hard to write, it should be hard to understand.

    Comment


      #62
      Yeah, three days might have been overkill but I had to keep mixing the jar because the keys float when they get oxygen caught under them. The keys would have ended up looking drastically different had I not mixed it.

      Still, I am satisfied. I'll try something without lettering on it next.

      Comment


        #63
        Guar Gum experiment - not a great success

        Well here in New Zealand Guar Gum is 1/2 the price of Xanthan Gum so I thought I'd give it a try. Note that the environment I used the Guar Gum in is exactly the same as I use with Xanthan with good results (inside a garage, UV bulb). I use a 35% H2O2 diluted to 17.5% (50/50) with a little Oxy laundry booster.

        My results are as follows:

        1. The mixture seems to thicken after settling a lot more than the Xanthan mixture. I find it a lot harder to get just the right consistency.
        2. The mixture is similar in appearance to the Xanthan mixture.
        3. After painting the mixture on the parts (in this case an Amiga 500 top lid) I noticed after a few hours that the bubbling was happening on the mixture that had run into the container and not on the parts themselves. Bubbling on the plastic pieces was minimal and the mixture seemed to be drying out a lot faster.
        4. Left overnight (around 10 hours) under a UV bulb and pulled the parts. The 500 lid had suffered a LOT of bleaching as to basically call it a scrap part now. Some areas had dried, some not but the blooming was all over.
        5. Tried the same mixture again on another 'test' part with the same results.

        So...in essence..I'm keeping away from Guar Gum for the time being. I have had consistent good results with Xanthan so will continue using it. Only problem I had with the Xanthan was using the mixture out in our ozone depleted sunlight..dried way too fast and caused blooming again.

        Hope this information is useful as I saw reference to using Guar Gum on the Retr0bright II Wiki

        Comment


          #64
          Hi DM,

          Good to see another kiwi posting on here.

          Thanks for putting this up. The more info on what DIDN'T work that gets out there the better

          Tez
          ------------------------------------------------
          My vintage collection: https://classic-computers.org.nz/collection/
          My vintage activities blog: https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/
          Twitter: @classiccomputNZ ; YouTube Videos: (click here)

          Comment


            #65
            @ dangermouse

            Thanks! I'll add this information to the Wiki.

            Cheers
            Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

            Comment


              #66
              Black Plastic (again)

              You might add this to the Wiki too.

              I processed another piece with some black plastic parts. The black plastic was glued on, so I didn't want to try to remove it for fear of breaking it.
              I used the same old paste mixture I've been using.
              Something definitely happens to the black plastic.
              What was once a shiny black, was now a dull grey.
              The solution to the problem in this case, was a "magic eraser" (very fine abrasive).
              With a little elbow grease and one of the erasers, I managed to get though what must have been the faded black layer of plastic, and got to some nice new black plastic. (I imagine any fine plastic or glass polish would also do the same trick - the eraser was just at hand).
              I used the eraser on all but the top row of black, so that I could see the results.

              Here's what it looks like now (I just have to do the top portion, and it'll look as good as new):

              Back plastic.JPG

              Comment


                #67
                I did an entire Apple IIc not too long ago using a bath instead of paste. I just did the regular 3% H2O2 (Walmart has a special) and a scoop of oxi-clean and left it in the sun for about 8 hours. Worked like a charm. This was on an overcast, 50 degrees Fahrenheit day in Minnesota, but that didn't seem to affect it badly. I also ran out of the H2O2 before covering the parts, and so I just added water to finish covering the parts. I didn't need to add too much, and it worked out OK. I also agitated the mixture whenever it stopped bubbling.

                One other thing I did with the IIc- it has some plastic parts with metal embedded in them. Specifically, the area near the handle and the drive slot cover. I was able to remove the spring-pins near the handle, but for the drive slot cover I squirted hot glue over the exposed metal. It remained protected from the mixture and didn't corrode.

                Comment


                  #68
                  Originally posted by arfink View Post
                  I did an entire Apple IIc not too long ago using a bath instead of paste. I just did the regular 3% H2O2 (Walmart has a special) and a scoop of oxi-clean and left it in the sun for about 8 hours. Worked like a charm. This was on an overcast, 50 degrees Fahrenheit day in Minnesota, but that didn't seem to affect it badly. I also ran out of the H2O2 before covering the parts, and so I just added water to finish covering the parts. I didn't need to add too much, and it worked out OK. I also agitated the mixture whenever it stopped bubbling.

                  One other thing I did with the IIc- it has some plastic parts with metal embedded in them. Specifically, the area near the handle and the drive slot cover. I was able to remove the spring-pins near the handle, but for the drive slot cover I squirted hot glue over the exposed metal. It remained protected from the mixture and didn't corrode.
                  Do you have before/after pictures of your //c?
                  I was thinking of doing this to mine at some point in the future.

                  Comment


                    #69
                    @Thelazy1

                    Pictures, we want pictures!!!
                    Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Arg, I wish I had taken pictures of that one. But I did do a mouse with the same method and it worked good too:

                      http://8bitcollective.com/images/arf...+in+progress!/

                      http://8bitcollective.com/images/arf...llow+vs.+NOT!/

                      I might to my Tandy 102 and Tandy 200 some time here, that I will be sure to take a boatload of pictures for.

                      Comment


                        #71
                        Kilroy-71 at the Swedish forum Vintage Games has posted this article for us Swedish users. He went with the arrowroot recipe but added glycerine to keep it from drying up. He has a few more "after" pictures of different machines he tried to brighten up, but forgot to take "before" shots.

                        http://www.vintagegames.se/mediawiki...hp//Retr0brite
                        Anders Carlsson

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Apparently Kilroy-71 can convert english to swedish quite well.
                          I wish I could do the reverse.
                          Nice photos

                          I hope I don't start calling Xanthan Gum, Xanthan Gummi !

                          Comment


                            #73
                            I tried substituting a liquid Oxy product I picked up at the supermarket, thinking the TAED would be already dissolved in the solution.
                            Forget about that idea.
                            It didn't work worth a damn.
                            The parts smelled real nice as they were processing, though.

                            Comment


                              #74
                              UV light

                              Sorry in advanced for the stupid question, but could anyone point me toward the "right" UV lamp? (IE one that works and provide a link to buy one if possible) and where one could be bought? I assume UV lamps are Different from Black lights right? (if they aren't different then I'm set as I have a couple black lights already.)

                              Working Vintage machines SE/30, IBM Aptiva 2144 486, Tandy 1100 SL, HP Vectra 486/25n

                              Other machines
                              24 Macintosh computers ranging from 1989 (s/e 30) to 2001 (iMac)
                              5 Windows machines ranging from a Vectra 486/25n to a 2010 Core i3
                              1 DOS Machine a Tandy 1000SL
                              Old computer hobbyist!

                              Comment


                                #75
                                How should one use retr0bright on a monitor? should the monitor always be disassembled before putting on the mixture? The thing is i'm trying to restore a Commodore 1084S monitor but that thing looks like it can't be taken apart.. i have no idea where to begin.. and it's sooo yellow..

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X