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Removing Yellowing from Plastics - Part 4

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    #76
    Originally posted by Mac collector View Post
    Sorry in advanced for the stupid question, but could anyone point me toward the "right" UV lamp? (IE one that works and provide a link to buy one if possible) and where one could be bought? I assume UV lamps are Different from Black lights right? (if they aren't different then I'm set as I have a couple black lights already.)
    Not sure where one can be bought where you are but DO go for the flourescent tube-type UV lights (some are small and coiled and fit a standard light socket..these are ok). DON't go for the round bulb-types..the ones that are the same shape as a normal lightbulb. Unless otherwise specificed these are probably just standard lightbulbs painted with a purple paint that only lets out UV light and filters the visible light. The UV that escapes is minimal.

    Tez
    ------------------------------------------------
    My vintage collection: https://classic-computers.org.nz/collection/
    My vintage activities blog: https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/
    Twitter: @classiccomputNZ ; YouTube Videos: (click here)

    Comment


      #77
      Originally posted by Pavel_ View Post
      How should one use retr0bright on a monitor? should the monitor always be disassembled before putting on the mixture? The thing is i'm trying to restore a Commodore 1084S monitor but that thing looks like it can't be taken apart.. i have no idea where to begin.. and it's sooo yellow..
      Definitely disassemble it if you can. The retrobright mixture painted on things that are NOT "yellowed" white or light-coloured plastic (like black trim, knobs, labels etc.) can have variable effects.

      Tez
      ------------------------------------------------
      My vintage collection: https://classic-computers.org.nz/collection/
      My vintage activities blog: https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/
      Twitter: @classiccomputNZ ; YouTube Videos: (click here)

      Comment


        #78
        Originally posted by Mac collector View Post
        Sorry in advanced for the stupid question, but could anyone point me toward the "right" UV lamp? (IE one that works and provide a link to buy one if possible) and where one could be bought? I assume UV lamps are Different from Black lights right? (if they aren't different then I'm set as I have a couple black lights already.)

        I got mine at Home Depot. They're an about 18" long tube type fixture. (I think they're also called blacklights).
        Just be careful how you open the packaging on those things. They can be very hazardous.

        Comment


          #79
          Originally posted by Pavel_ View Post
          How should one use retr0bright on a monitor? should the monitor always be disassembled before putting on the mixture? The thing is i'm trying to restore a Commodore 1084S monitor but that thing looks like it can't be taken apart.. i have no idea where to begin.. and it's sooo yellow..
          That's about as good as one of my first posts on the subject back in Part 1, when I was asking if you had to disassemble a keyboard before you treated it. You've taken the torch for the goofy question Thank you.
          The answer as Tezza replied, is yes. You are only treating the plastic.
          As with many things on vintage computers, you have to remember that they put them together, so they have to come apart. While it may not look like it after 30 years, they do come apart. Sometimes parts may be glued together, but I've found most times they're not.

          Comment


            #80
            hehe, i'm glad someone could take the "goofy question" torch off your hands
            It's just that this monitor looks like a beast! There's no screws, no nothing.. I'm thinking that if i put something over the vents and the screen itself then maybe i don't have to take the whole thing apart..

            btw tezza,
            I have a new project ongoing and i'm using your recipe... pics are comming as soon as i get this damn monitor apart!

            Comment


              #81
              I never have been a fan of the goop based recipes. I prefer just a plain old H2O2 and Oxiclean bath. I literally just use the 3% stuff in 1 liter bottles from Walmart. Now, before you say that's a waste of H2O2, I try and pack the bath pretty full of parts. I find that, with some occasional stirring and turning parts over to get optimum UV exposure, this method proves to be very safe and to produce very even results. Now, I haven't tried this with parts which are extremely yellow, since most of my collection is in pretty decent condition. But an average-yellow mouse took only 7 hours in weak MN autumn sun not very long ago.

              Comment


                #82
                Originally posted by Pavel_ View Post
                I'm thinking that if i put something over the vents and the screen itself then maybe i don't have to take the whole thing apart..
                I've tried various types of masking tape - cheap stuff to real expensive stuff - it all comes off once that paste/solution is applied. Besides you'll have to wash the parts off real well afterward, and whatever you use to cover openings will probably come off during the wash off.
                You gotta get it apart - that way you get to clean out the inside too

                Comment


                  #83
                  Originally posted by arfink View Post
                  I never have been a fan of the goop based recipes. I prefer just a plain old H2O2 and Oxiclean bath. I literally just use the 3% stuff in 1 liter bottles from Walmart. Now, before you say that's a waste of H2O2, I try and pack the bath pretty full of parts.
                  Then you mustn't have tried doing something the size of a Televideo 925 monitor case yet. You'd need gallons and gallons and gallons of liquid.
                  I agree though that for small parts like a mouse or keyboard key caps, the liquid is the way to go. It just gets prohibitivly expensive trying to process large pieces in liquid.

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Yeah. My solution- get a big garbage bag and blow it up with air and stuff it inside of the shell so you don't need as much liquid. Works pretty good.

                    EDIT: If I actually had a Televideo 925, the cost would be worth it. Actually, I tend to use the plain 3% stuff from Walmart, and one time I even added a few liters of plain water to help the solution cover the parts. Still worked just fine.
                    Last edited by arfink; January 5, 2010, 01:53 PM.

                    Comment


                      #85
                      Originally posted by tezza View Post
                      Not sure where one can be bought where you are but DO go for the flourescent tube-type UV lights (some are small and coiled and fit a standard light socket..these are ok). DON't go for the round bulb-types..the ones that are the same shape as a normal lightbulb. Unless otherwise specificed these are probably just standard lightbulbs painted with a purple paint that only lets out UV light and filters the visible light. The UV that escapes is minimal.

                      Tez
                      Sweet so yes to these ones http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/0307207 and no to ones like this http://www.bulborama.com/store/cart....t_detail&p=815. Good now I know which Bulb to buy.


                      Originally posted by Lorne View Post
                      I got mine at Home Depot. They're an about 18" long tube type fixture. (I think they're also called blacklights).
                      Just be careful how you open the packaging on those things. They can be very hazardous.
                      Good then they will fit in standard tube lights then. That should be good as I have a few extra Tube fixtures that I can use. And thanks for the warning on opening them, I will be sure to be extra careful.


                      Thanks a bunch for the answers guys

                      Working Vintage machines SE/30, IBM Aptiva 2144 486, Tandy 1100 SL, HP Vectra 486/25n

                      Other machines
                      24 Macintosh computers ranging from 1989 (s/e 30) to 2001 (iMac)
                      5 Windows machines ranging from a Vectra 486/25n to a 2010 Core i3
                      1 DOS Machine a Tandy 1000SL
                      Old computer hobbyist!

                      Comment


                        #86
                        So is it also safe to say that this UV light is a "correct" one?
                        http://www.clasohlson.se/Product/Pro...x?id=137140573

                        Yes, it's in swedish but you can see the specs and it looks right doesn't it?

                        Comment


                          #87
                          I don't know about those funny shape bulbs - here's what I use:
                          http://jascoproducts.com/products/pc...&idcategory=40
                          They're $ 14.97 at Home Depot.

                          I have them set up like a mini tanning booth.

                          UV light setup.JPG

                          Comment


                            #88
                            Is very short-wave UV (UVC) more desirable than the UVA that you get from the typical "black light"? The emission peak's around 254 nm and will also erase EPROMs. Lorne, you should know about these--they're used in HVAC air purification systems, particularly for hospitals.

                            If so, then this would be the cat's meow. Another alternative would be a mercury-vapor lamp designed for outdoor use. Some of the metal-halide "grow lamps" are also pretty strong in the UVB area and can be gotten in 400 and 1000 watt sizes.
                            Last edited by Chuck(G); January 6, 2010, 09:49 AM.
                            Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

                            Comment


                              #89
                              Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
                              Is very short-wave UV (UVC) more desirable than the UVA that you get from the typical "black light"? The emission peak's around 254 nm and will also erase EPROMs. Lorne, you should know about these--they're used in HVAC air purification systems, particularly for hospitals.

                              If so, then this would be the cat's meow. Another alternative would be a mercury-vapor lamp designed for outdoor use. Some of the metal-halide "grow lamps" are also pretty strong in the UVB area and can be gotten in 400 and 1000 watt sizes.
                              I'm aware of them - they're used in air handling units for UV sterilization.
                              I don't much like the "Warning" that comes with those bulbs.
                              This H202 stuff is already dangerous enough.
                              I'm not sure I'd want to add another avenue for "skin burn and eye inflammation" to the process.
                              We can do that just fine with the H202 mixture all by itself

                              Comment


                                #90
                                All,
                                tonight i will start with my new retr0bright attempt.
                                An A500 case using the immersing method and 5 litres of 35% H202 also adding 5 litres of water.

                                I will use a fairly large container as the A500's case is not the smallest in the world...

                                Should i add the OXY laundry booster to this? i have not used this in my previous attempts and everything worked out great.. What do you think?? isn't the H202 + UV lamp good enough?


                                (Before and after pics will be taken)

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