Announcement

Collapse

Forum Rules and Etiquette

Our mission ...

This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


Rule 1: Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.


Rule 2: Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.



Rule 3: Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.


Rule 4: "PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.


Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.


New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.


Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
See more
See less

Removing Yellowing from Plastics - Part 4

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Removing Yellowing from Plastics - Part 4

    Blimey! we are now at Part 4, the saga continues. This idea has been taken on by the Airstream mobile home community, Lego and Transformer toy restorers, vintage telephone and radio forums, vintage pinball and fruit machine forums, the list goes on and on...

    On the computer side of things, Apple, Atari, and Super Nintendo forums have picked up on Retr0bright as well as the wider Amiga community. Thanks to all at VCF for helping to make this as awesome as it has become!!

    The condensed history so far can be found at the Wiki, which is located here:-

    http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

    The Wiki has received over 130,000 hits and I noticed that the hit counter broke again today!!

    This should bring you up to speed as to what we are doing and what has been achieved so far. This thread here is for ongoing discussions and experiments around this core project. If you clean any of your own parts using the methods described in the Wiki or can suggest any improvements, please do so here; We will always be looking for "before and after" photos of your work and we can add these to The Gallery, as part of the Wiki.

    Part One of this saga is here:
    http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcfo...ad.php?t=11877

    Part Two is here:
    http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcfo...ad.php?t=12566

    Part Three is here:
    http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcfo...ad.php?t=14369

    I never expected this idea to capture people's imaginations in the way it has; God, how I love the Internet!!

    OK, meanwhile, back in Retr0bright land......
    Last edited by Merlin; June 10, 2009, 12:46 AM.
    Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

    #2
    Hmm... it seems everyone likes reading 250-post threads; you must all be masochists, that's all I'm going to say!

    Please use this thread to continue the discussions.

    Thanks
    Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

    Comment


      #3
      Here's my latest deyellowing project completed; a calculator that is at least 20 years old.

      Before:

      Calc before.JPG

      Buttons: I hadn't realized how yellowed the buttons were until I took it apart. It's definitely UV that casues the yellowing - the underside of the buttons never saw the light of day, but the tops sure did. What a difference.

      Calc buttons - tops & bottoms.JPG

      After: looks good as new.

      Calc after.JPG

      Comment


        #4
        Seems to me a rubber cement bottle be a good storage bottle for a batch of Retr0bright. Its dark brown bottle (almost opaque) would keep light out, and the lid has a brush built into it.

        Comment


          #5
          Nice work, Lorne!!

          You would not believe the things that people are using Retr0bright on now; lego, Transformers toys, old telephones, vintage fruit machines, Super Nintendos, Airstream trailer parts, classic car lenses, the list goes on and on.... the Wiki still gets around 500 hits per day and more people are joining the Wiki.

          I have loads of new photos to add to the Wiki but I need to get the time to do it. I have a day off next week so I'll probably do it then.

          @ olePigeon

          Good idea!! I thought about using those plastic 'jars' you can get cocoa and coffee in these days. They are dark coloured, opaque and ideal for this.
          Author of the Retr0bright Wiki - http://www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com

          Comment


            #6
            Just think if you had thought to patent it....LOL
            Legacy Computers and Parts

            Sales of, parts for, and repairs to, Vintage and Legacy computers.

            Comment


              #7
              I can't seem to find 10% hydrogen peroxide around here. Everything else I need is around here, but I can't seem to find 10% hydrogen peroxide.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Tupin View Post
                I can't seem to find 10% hydrogen peroxide around here. Everything else I need is around here, but I can't seem to find 10% hydrogen peroxide.
                And here, would be where?

                I, or someone else, may be able to tell you where to get it, but when no one knows where you are because you don't enter it in your profile in the User Control Panel, there's not much help that can be offered.

                (Mods: noting your location in your profile should be a requirement)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sorry, I just put it in now. St. Louis is where I am.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Tupin View Post
                    Sorry, I just put it in now. St. Louis is where I am.
                    OK - now I can help.

                    You can get something of 30-40% strength from a company called Prochem. That's the stuff I use - you can dilute it, if you're not impatient like me.
                    (BTW: good quick response on getting your location added to the UCP)
                    The stuff is called Urine Rescue (it wouldn't be my choice of names, but...)
                    Prochem has distributors in MO: http://www.prochem.com/about/us.php?s=MO in Hazelwood and Kansas City - if that's too far for a drive, maybe they could ship it.
                    It shouldn't be more than about $ 25 for a gallon, which is way cheaper per oz than what others have been paying, when they buy 10 oz at the hair dressers.

                    Mods: I wish it was this easy getting everyone to add their location.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Wow, I didn't even know they could sell hydrogen peroxide that strong to civilians...

                      I just realized there is a Sally's Beauty Supply around here, and they have 12% "Clairoxide" for $4.20. Just need to stop by a Walgreens and I'm set.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Check the MSDS on it first - it wouldn't surprise me if it's not what you think it is (especially at that price).

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yep, it's definitely 12%:

                          http://www.science-house.org/learn/C...appendixc.html

                          Clairoxide is specifically listed as being 12%.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            OK, good stuff - it just looks too cheap for me.
                            I'm thinkning there might be something in there that you might not want in there.
                            Merlin?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I think it's meant to be mixed with other hair supplies, so what's in the bottle is just 12% hydrogen peroxide.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X