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This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


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There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

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To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
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This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

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Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
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Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


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New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

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Removing Yellowing from Plastics - Part 4

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  • Osgeld
    replied
    I did a SNES last year in just plain h2o2 in a mostly transparent tub outside over an entire overcast weekend

    The console was washed in hot water soap degreaser and ISO alcohol so nothing was left on it, and it went from fairly tan to just about perfect no problems

    In fact I never use the high octane gel formulas just dollar tree stuff with some dollar tree oxy clean dissolved in some hot water and it works fine, takes longer and takes even longer without strong sunlight, but I'm starting to wonder if that's more heat than uv

    Leave a comment:


  • vwestlife
    replied
    Yes, I'm responding to a post from 2012, but for a reason...

    Originally posted by Lorne View Post
    Trust me: it isn't doing any de-yellowing at night (without UV lights).
    It may be bubbling (which is probably caused by the Vanish itself), but there will be no de-yellowing - UV is needed to make the process work.
    All it's doing at night is getting wet - it might make it look cleaner in the morning, but that's probably just old nicotine/tar being washed off by the bubbling.
    This video disputes that, and shows a Mac 128k being whitened by submerging the plastic into an opague container filled with diluted hydrogen peroxide (not a gel solution) and left overnight, without exposure to UV light. The amount of de-yellowing is not that great, but it looks like it's doing more than just cleaning the plastic:

    Leave a comment:


  • Druid6900
    replied
    Originally posted by Macclassic74 View Post
    Hi, I'm new here, I just have a question, is anyone aware of someone that offers restoration services, such as removing the yellowing for older computers, I would rather send mine off to someone and have them do it then mess with it myself?

    Thanks
    Depends where you are located. I'm sure that those people that have even RetroBrite'd their patio furniture would be more than happy to dazzle you with their ability to make case parts look brand new again.

    Leave a comment:


  • Macclassic74
    replied
    Hi, I'm new here, I just have a question, is anyone aware of someone that offers restoration services, such as removing the yellowing for older computers, I would rather send mine off to someone and have them do it then mess with it myself?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • tipc
    replied
    can you use guar gum in place of xanthum gum?

    Leave a comment:


  • tezza
    replied
    Looks good!

    Tez

    Leave a comment:


  • Securix
    replied
    The edit button seems to be missing, so I can't add this to the previous message. But here's the completed Apple IIe Platinum. You can see I avoided treating the logo for fear it would fade, so there a little yellowing still visible there. The photo doesn't do it justice. It really looks new.

    a2e-retro-done.jpg

    Leave a comment:


  • Securix
    replied
    It's late spring here in NJ...good time to do some retrobrite when it's nice and dry and not too hot.

    Here's an Apple IIe Platinum I just started working on. Decided to try just the lid and then start the rest of the case if things went well (which it appears they did...so I've started the rest of the case today.)

    a2e-retro.jpg

    Also started on this extremely yellowed C128D keyboard. Here it is before and after one day of treatment. The smooth plastic makes it harder for the retrobrite to stick (whereas the Apple's case is much rougher and seems to hold on to it better.) I think it needs another day and it should be good enough.

    128d-b4.jpg
    128d-aftr.jpg

    The keys need some treatment too but I don't really want to risk fading the keycaps.
    Last edited by Securix; May 19, 2012, 04:37 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • albyhf
    replied
    Understood!

    Thank all of you!

    Leave a comment:


  • tezza
    replied
    Originally posted by angel_grig View Post
    Hello Alberto and welcome to the forums!


    1-Are there any problems using too much Oxi ?

    Yes there are!In fact a bigger oxi dose has a bad effect on the plastic surface.See tezza's blog here:http://www.classic-computers.org.nz/...g-misstep.html

    2-Do I have to note a reaction (foam for or bubbles for example) adding oxi to the gel or it has to remain "stable"?

    Ι have never noted anything when adding oxi to the gel.You can see bubbles if you make a liquid retrobright solution. Look again at tezza's blog http://www.classic-computers.org.nz/...eydeyellow.htm

    3-At the end, with the original formula, is RetroBright more similar to a gel or to a foam?
    With the original formula retrobright is similar to a white non-transparent mixture (something between gel and foam!)
    Yes, you beat me to it. I was going to post up that unfortunate experiment of mine.

    You can certainly overcook things using too much. It's not just the active ingredient in "oxy" but there are other things in those laundry activators as well. Who knows what too much of these do. While experimenting I have used a concentrated "just oxy" mixture with some success but this was only on straight white/cream plastic with no markings. You've read what happened to the keys (i.e. damaged).

    I tried these experiments because my supply of H2O2 was a lot more expensive than the laundry activator. However, if you can get/afford hydrogen peroxide I would use that, and I would stick with just the small amount of Oxy recommended in the retrobrite recipie. I wouldn't try to boost it.

    The recipe that's worked best for me is Lorne's Xanthan gum/glycerine variation from the original recipe (except I used 6% strength H2O2). It's on the wiki. It forms a light gel you can paint on easily. If you can't get Xanthan gum, my own arrowroot variation will suffice, but it does tend to crust up, which may not let as much light through as you would want. Also, my technique/recipe does tend to make it foam more and it's easy to accidently overheat it.

    Good luck!

    Tez

    Leave a comment:


  • nige the hippy
    replied
    Originally posted by ziloo View Post
    ...is there any known or similar
    method out there for reviving transparent plastic like car's light lenses.
    ziloo
    Slightly O/T
    Years ago we used this stuff http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Onl...rasives_1.html for re-polishing acrylic & polycarbonate that was scratched. One of the guys in the workshop used to do helicopter windscreens with it. Important tip - initially use an abrasive that gives scratches as deep as the ones you're trying to polish out, then work finer.

    Leave a comment:


  • angel_grig
    replied
    Hello Alberto and welcome to the forums!


    1-Are there any problems using too much Oxi ?

    Yes there are!In fact a bigger oxi dose has a bad effect on the plastic surface.See tezza's blog here:http://www.classic-computers.org.nz/...g-misstep.html

    2-Do I have to note a reaction (foam for or bubbles for example) adding oxi to the gel or it has to remain "stable"?

    Ι have never noted anything when adding oxi to the gel.You can see bubbles if you make a liquid retrobright solution. Look again at tezza's blog http://www.classic-computers.org.nz/...eydeyellow.htm

    3-At the end, with the original formula, is RetroBright more similar to a gel or to a foam?
    With the original formula retrobright is similar to a white non-transparent mixture (something between gel and foam!)
    Last edited by angel_grig; May 14, 2012, 06:08 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • albyhf
    replied
    Originally posted by nige the hippy View Post
    in the UK for cooking I use a Heaped tablespoon for flour etc. as 1 oz (or 25g)
    a level tablespoon (of liquid) is about 20g
    there are 4 uk teaspoons to the tablespoon so 5g (same as a 5ml medicine spoon!)

    so...
    40g - 50g Xanthan Gum
    5g Glycerine
    about 1 or 2 g "Oxy"
    Thank you very much!

    Other questions...

    I think that the follows are simple questions and so I tried to search the answers in the threads...but without luck.

    2g of Oxy is a very little bit quantity in 500ml peroxide.

    1-Are there any problems using too much Oxi ?
    I mean: I know that using too strong peroxide can cause problems, is it the same with the oxi dose? Are there any contraindications?

    2-Do I have to note a reaction (foam for or bubbles for example) adding oxi to the gel or it has to remain "stable"?

    3-At the end, with the original formula, is RetroBright more similar to a gel or to a foam?

    Leave a comment:


  • nige the hippy
    replied
    in the UK for cooking I use a Heaped tablespoon for flour etc. as 1 oz (or 25g)
    a level tablespoon (of liquid) is about 20g
    there are 4 uk teaspoons to the tablespoon so 5g (same as a 5ml medicine spoon!)

    so...
    40g - 50g Xanthan Gum
    5g Glycerine
    about 1 or 2 g "Oxy"

    Leave a comment:


  • albyhf
    replied
    Hello everybody

    I'm Alberto from Italy and I want to restore my Commodore 64C (very yellow)

    I read a lot of things about Retrobright (also that there are a lot of guys using not the original formula)

    I want to use the orginal formula but I've a problem...here we don't use as measure units "tablespoon", "teaspoon", "cups" etc but only milliliter, grams, etc....and so I don't know what is exactly a tablespoon or a 1/4 teaspoon measure!

    I asked to "vecchi computer" (a italian site which talks about RetroBright) but the autor told me to be "generic" and that if I use more or less xanthan or glycerine or Vanish there aren't problems.

    Instead my Retrobright was very very very dense, difficult to spread on components, no visible effects adding vanish oxi and also no visible (or very low) effects on the plastic after a day out

    (I'm tring on a 2001 Pc keyboard with yellow keys to test the product...not on the C64, but anyway very low good effects but also no bad one)

    SO!

    Please! Could anyone convert for me in grams (or oz. is the same!):

    2 heaped tablespoonfuls of Xanthan Gum
    1 level teaspoonful of Glycerine
    1/4 teaspoonful of "Oxy" laundry booster


    thank you!!

    Leave a comment:

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