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IBM Model 29 Keypunch Station

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  • NeXT
    replied
    For the moment I have not touched them. They still got a nasty divot in them and you get a "click-click-click" every time you cycle the clutch but cards still feed through without much fuss.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chuck(G)
    replied
    What did you end up doing about the rubber feed rollers?

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    Polishing is now complete. A clean and unpunched card will now pass through without jamming, snagging or getting damaged other than getting two black stripes from somewhere in the feed picker. Might of gotten something too oily.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    Okay.
    That was brutal.
    It took several weeks on and off but ALL of the relays have been dismantled and cleaned.




    This completes cleaning and repairs on the relay frame. Now I can go back to focusing on polishing the metal.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    Progress of cleaning the relays over the last has consisted of:

    1) Pull all the wire contacts from a relay and soak them in deoxit
    2) Using 1500 grit paper soaked in deoxit, clean the contacts
    3) Using another sheet of 1500 grit, clean each wire
    4) Reinstall each wire contact. Test to make sure contacts are now clean
    5) Smoke cigarette, contemplate your mortality because there's still a dozen more relays to go
    6) Continue onto the next relay

    This is a brutally tedious and time consuming job compared to the contacts in the punch mechanism itself. :P

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    CuriousMarc is on the game and while I was expecting scans in a few months he got them digitized in a week. Seriously dude you are a busy person and thank you for going out of your routine to help me out.

    So after analyzing the model C schematics I found that indeed some of the wiring differs from the Model B which is what was confusing me so much because so many of the undisturbed wiring was going places that didn't add up. The wire that comes from TB32-1 according to the schematics routes to relay point 17-1 Common and shared the 2-socket terminal with a jumper to 17-5 NO.


    The other wire however was a challenge because to the wiring diagram 26-8 NC doesn't go anywhere besides 26-9 and 26-10. It also was such a complicated circuit it was separated between pages.


    This entire circuit seemed to be fed 48V from the PSU however there was no continuity where I expected 48V to be so the wire could only be the 48V line. Sure enough digging further I found that DC power is distributed in series to everything via multiple strings and in this string I could now follow continuity up until 14-1 Common, so that had to be where the wire went.


    Well that cleans up the wiring. Now the relays.....

    Leave a comment:


  • whartung
    replied
    Great effort. Looks incredible.

    Leave a comment:


  • pgru2
    replied
    Very interesting, hopefully it will be in full working condition.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    Print head cleaning and lubrication completed and it's been reinstalled in the punch.



    The rest of the day was spent cleaning and polishing the main card path. A lot of it comes apart without too much of a fuss and I was able to hand clean each part. I'm using Turtle Wax chrome polish. Does as good of a job on aluminum as it does on the Eagle lol. Everything is cleaning up amazing.




    With that looking good I decided it was time to see if the motor came up so out came the oiling syringes and grease. It took about an hour to nail down and get every cam lobe, bearing and joint I could find but once the motor was attached other than aformentioned bad belts it idled nice and quiet.



    I then began manually actuating bail trips and greasing more areas. By the end of the night I was able to feed a card down from the input hopper (albeit it kept jamming because of the bad rollers), register at the punch station, advance it through the punch and register it at the read station, advance through the read station and into and into the output hopper where I could then stack it. I was also able to trip the print bail as well as supress printing while tripping the print supress solenoid.

    That gets the mechanical section taken care of for now. Just some more polishing and that's all ready to be reunited with the cabinet.
    Electronically, CuriousMarc was able to get back to me with the wiring diagrams I needed (thank you Mr. Verdiell) and I was immediately able to identify the two disconnected wires in my relay frame. The weekend is over but I should be able to tackle that this week, then.....ugh...cleaning contacts.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    Nah they retract fine so unless the print quality seriously suffers I'm leaving them alone. I seriously do not want to dismantle it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chuck(G)
    replied
    Well, if you get stuck on those pins, I suspect that replacements can be fashioned from music wire, which tends to be quite hard.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    Whie I patiently wait for additional documentation I decided to focus on the printer.
    At this point I've been warned by multiple people, other keypunch owners and retired IBM techs, that disassembly of the printer is absolutely not recommended even for cleaning unless absolutely necessary due to the extreme complexity of realigning the codeplate. Removal was relatively straightforward with one alignment noted and once removed I found it was relatively clean and the pins were all free moving. Here's the print head under a microscope.




    There are a few bent pins but I was unable to straighten them as none of my tools were small enough. To give you an idea about how small these pins are, a regular sewing needle is about twice the diameter. I'll just have to live with this.

    The unit will be hand cleaned but lubrication of the print head will be interesting since disassembly cannot be performed. the idea is to leave the head soaking overnight in iso and then tomorrow use a syringe to carefully oil each wire and let a drop or two of oil soak into the head via capillary action.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    It's my day off and I really don't want to get too involved today but I wanted to analyze the relays and figure out how to deal with the fact they are all oxidized.




    I can pull each pair out without touching the tension adjustment and slide them back in easily enough but exactly how to reliably clean each wire and each contact is going to be a challenge. I'm kinda hoping there's an easier way to do each contact without having to dismantle and clean every relay.





    I got no options that I can tell. Relays 14 and 16 had been swapped around at one point but they are functionally identical. Diodes and resistors tested fine and the only physical damage was one broken wire in the back I was able to splice back together. I was able to track down the other ends of the two unplugged wires to relay 26 and block 32 (just runs through a diode) however I still only have the Model B wiring diagrams and for relay 26 at least it doesn't make sense as it lists it as the field-side encode relay, which I think was for the multi-size card option I don't have? Also I can't tell how pin numbering correlates to position on the relays. Left to right in an S-path? right to left? *shrug*

    Edited: the answer to that last question is buried away in some 1401 documentation - http://ibm-1401.info/IBM-WireRelays-VG.pdf
    The contacts are also silver alloy, so they are naturally tarnished and adjustment requires measurement of tension weight in grams, so it's a good thing I didn't try and remove the adjustment before pulling those wires.

    Last edited by NeXT; September 6, 2021, 01:32 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chuck(G)
    replied
    Apparently, (as of the end of July), Terry's been hit with Covid. See last post here. He's well-known among the audio tape community. Another outfit that may be able to help you is JJ Short. They deal in typewriter rubber, but perhaps your 029 isn't too far from that.

    Leave a comment:


  • NeXT
    replied
    Can anyone here vouch for him? His website is jank and his business email is useless.
    I tried contacting him several years ago in regards to new rollers for my HP 9845B's tape drive and either my emails bounced back blank or would go through and bounce back verbatim. I've never been able to get in contact.

    Leave a comment:

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