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Run of the mill 3D printers

I would suggest Creality Ender 3 (build volume 220x220x250) for about $180.
It's an extremely popular printer, so you can be sure any problem you might run into (and rest assured you WILL run into problems, with printer of any make) has already been solved.
Alternatively you can look into resin printers if you're looking to print miniatures or parts for scaled models.
 
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tipc said:
So small models or figurines, down to 25mm tall will turn out convincingly? I'm more interested with accuracy then size. For some things the stated precision (~.002/.004") is insufficient. But you can't expect the world for 160$.
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Get an Elegoo Mars then instead. FDM printers are not good if accuracy and fine details are important to you.

(I own both an Ender-3 [heavily modded] and an Elegoo Mars)
 
dorkbert said:
I would suggest Creality Ender 3 (build volume 220x220x250) for about $180.
It's an extremely popular printer, so you can be sure any problem you might run into (and rest assured you WILL run into problems, with printer of any make) has already been solved.
Alternatively you can look into resin printers if you're looking to print miniatures or parts for scaled models.
Click to expand...

I agree, I've read a lot of positive reviews about this printer. It's a real workhorse with quality components!
 
Ok I don't know diddly about this stuff, and I'm having suggestions rudely thrown at me (IT'S A JOKE). Waiting means prices will only come down. Unless...I better act, they may be considered vintage soon 8O

In the interim I could try my hand at what I've coined poor man's 3d printing. Reducing a digital model to a series of cutting planes and etch each in copper shim stock. Then soldering it all together. Schmott, no?

I'd really like to invest in a printer that produces models of thermoplastic.
 
tipc said:
Waiting means prices will only come down.
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Prices are not an issue. There are resin printers like the Longer Orange 10 that are even cheaper than the FDM printer you linked to. I would still recommend the Mars instead - or at least the Longer Orange 30.

If you want FDM only for whatever reason, keep in mind that even a pre-built printer will not "just work". It takes lots of effort and learning to get good results.
 
With a resin printer, that's more or less the case. You have to wash the object using IPA and cure it in the sun for some hours after printing, but that's about it. Admitted, that's not fun work to do and you need to wear gloves when handling the resin, but it's not much effort.

For FDM on the other hand, sanding down the surface is often required and the result heavily depends on correct slicing, which is a whole field on its own.

To give you an idea... To be able to print this on my Ender-3:

IMG_20181227_151637805.jpg
(took 36 hours, btw)

I had to do over 100 modifications and made my Ender-3 finally look like this:

IMG_20201203_183809051.jpg

Most modifications were developed by myself.
 
tipc said:
What's more or less the case?
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What you wrote above: "create figurines relatively effortlessly"

tipc said:
And hasn't someone produced an advanced manual on the subject seeing a fair amount of stuff has been produced at this point? So excessive effort to produce worthwhile models isn't required?
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Every 3d printer and every object you print needs custom settings that you can't find in manuals. For FDM, even different filaments require a whole bunch of settings to make - often trial-and-error is needed to get it right. This is a very complex topic.
 
tipc said:
So small models or figurines, down to 25mm tall will turn out convincingly? I'm more interested with accuracy then size. For some things the stated precision (~.002/.004") is insufficient. But you can't expect the world for 160$.
Click to expand...

Whilst I haven't tried that printer small objects can be a problem. On my, albeit very old 3Drag, the issue is that the layers don't have time to cool, so even with the fan on you can get sagging.

As some one else said, the words "effortless" and "3-D Printing" only work when there is a "not" somewhere in the sentence. So you might want to pause between layers, or print multiple objects.

Some discussion on the issue here:-

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/35pjva/cooling_time_between_layers_ignored/

I would go and search some 3D printing forums for info on your printer.....
.... would you ask about vintage computers on a 3D printing forum...
 
tipc said:
So small models or figurines, down to 25mm tall will turn out convincingly? I'm more interested with accuracy then size. For some things the stated precision (~.002/.004") is insufficient. But you can't expect the world for 160$.
Click to expand...

I have several 3D printers (Flashforge, Creality 10S ProV2, etc..) as well as Resin (Qidi and Elegoo). Why do I have several? Because once you start, you keep upgrading to next next bigger/better model with nice to have features LOL!

I'm on the same bandwagon several others have suggested:

Resin for miniatures - better detail than FDM
Be prepared for the potential mess of resin, curing, etc etc. ..
Elegoo or Qidi for me - low price points

For FDM, I love my FlashForge for the dual print heads (I keep PLA on one and ABS on the other) - and am a raving fan of Creality. Love their printers and bang for the buck.
Ender 3 is def best entry choice in my book - low price point nice quality
Quality prints with the right setup but not as fine detailed as resin
Be prepared for initial frustrations of bed leveling. This will make or break a quality print.
Then you'll be playing with Kapton, hairspray, mirror blah blah blah to find the best surface for your prints (my goto setup for PLA is PEI on flex plate - rarely have I had a print get unstuck)

I would suggest watching some YouTube videos of people actually setting up and using their machines before you take the leap - I've seen folks get frustrated and give up and their machines never see the light of day again :)

-Alex
 
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tipc said:
Timo never told me how tall his figurine was.
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You did not ask. ;) That one was 20cm tall, as it was a final reliability test for the printer.

There still should be a manual/guidebook. It needn't cover every complication that could arise. Just most of them.
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For basic stuff like how to use slicing software, how to level the hot-bed, what filament to use etc., there's plenty of material around.

But still, no one can tell you how to print object X on printer Y with filament Z. This is trial-and-error in the beginning and turns into experience over time.

g4ugm said:
I would go and search some 3D printing forums for info on your printer.....
.... would you ask about vintage computers on a 3D printing forum...
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I think there's nothing wrong with that question here. While vice-versa it makes no sense (as you pointed out), many people use 3d-printers to create parts for vintage computers, cases for modern add-ons, missing or broken covers, and so on.
 
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tipc said:
There still should be a manual/guidebook. It needn't cover every complication that could arise. Just most of them.
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There are more or less an infinite number of complications that can happen, you'll just have to tackle the problems as they come. You'll not be alone in your problems, someone else will have almost certainly had the same issue as you. A google search will most likely give you your answer when you need it.
 
tipc said:
There still should be a manual/guidebook. It needn't cover every complication that could arise. Just most of them.
Click to expand...

I think many vendors or 3D printers shy away from providing a manual with issues and solutions because it would put buyers off, especially if they the first to do this. A sort of reverse box-ticking exercise.
 
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