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Cracked laptop hinges

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    #16
    Originally posted by Unknown_K View Post
    Do thinks like bondo and fiberglass filler (the stuff used to fill in dents in cars) work for this kind of thing? There has to be some plastic stuff modelers use also.
    Bondo is great stuff, as is the fiberglass cloth. You could also use acrylic resin. I've repaired CRT bezels and equipment front panels that have been shattered. using Bondo and fiberglass cloth. After sanding and painting, you can't tell that there was any damage.

    I recently retired an old Sony TV that fell on its face during the Loma Prieta quake and broke the bezel surrounding the CRT. Some pieces were lost as well. Good old Bondo saved the day and gave me almost 20 years of service.

    If you have screws that need to be anchored, use threaded brass inserts--Bondo won't hold threads worth a darn.
    Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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      #17
      Sorry, to resurrect an old thread, but since this is about T3100 hinges.... can someone confirm what the correct behaviour of the lid on a T3100/T3100e is? I just got one of these (which I'm very pleased with; especially the ultra-cool plasma screen) but I want to be sure there are no hinge issues on this one. When I press the latch on the front the screen springs up an inch or so, which I think is a good sign. But if I open it further - say, to about 45 degrees - then the weight of the screen drags it back to the same just-about-open position that you get when you press the latch initially. If however I pull the screen all the way open it sits there happily in the vertical position. I think that means it's ok, but It'd be cool if someone could confirm as I'm more used to modern laptops that stick firm at whatever angle you open them at, which this one definitely doesn't (then again it's not exactly a laptop anyway...)

      I suppose I should just take it apart and have a look inside, but this thread suggests that isn't a straightforward process for a T3100, and I'd hate to damage it taking it apart only to find there was nothing wrong with the hinges to begin with.

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        #18
        Originally posted by drykid View Post
        ...I suppose I should just take it apart and have a look inside, but this thread suggests that isn't a straightforward process for a T3100, and I'd hate to damage it taking it apart only to find there was nothing wrong with the hinges to begin with.
        I wouldn't take it apart unless you have to. I've got a 3100e and a 3200 and have had both of them apart several times; not terribly difficult but not trivial either, and there are a few fragile connections.

        Don't worry about the lid, that's the way it's supposed to be. It's fairly heavy and spring loaded, and the hinges are quite loose below 90 degrees open (which is why it can spring up and even bounce); once you get it past vertical the hinges tighten up so it will stay in place anywhere past 90 degrees vertical.

        Nice machines and yes, there's a certain charm about those displays. I've had my 3100e since new, never a problem; replaced the HD with a larger one, maxed out the memory (and replaced the battery of course ).

        Which model is yours, 3100 or 3100e?

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          #19
          Originally posted by MikeS View Post
          Which model is yours, 3100 or 3100e?
          It's a T3100e, with 1MB RAM and a 20MB hard disk. It came with MSDOS 6.22 on it, but I couldn't figure out how to get the additional 384 KB of RAM working under DOS 6.22 so I downgraded it to Toshiba DOS 5.01 and added EMM.SYS to the CONFIG.SYS. Now it sees the extra memory as expanded memory, which is fine. It has a Turtle Beach MPU-401 clone in the ISA slot, although I can't do much with that as it's missing the breakout box (anyone have a spare?), so I might take that out and put in a soundcard instead if I can find a cheap one. The standard IBM sound is pretty awful.

          It even still has the original boxed set of manuals that it shipped with, which was a nice bonus.

          Also I should say that I love the keyboard on it almost as much as the screen; if only laptops these days had keyboards like this one does...

          Thanks for confirming the lid behaviour anyway; I'm glad I don't have to risk taking mine apart now. It probably isn't that difficult a process, but it wouldn't be the first time I've messed something up by trying to take it apart without really understanding the process. I'll still need to remove the keyboard to replace the dead CMOS battery that's there currently, but that sounds a lot simpler.

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            #20
            Nice; as you probably know, the 3100e uses a normal IDE HD and has a 1.44MB floppy, nicer than the 3100.

            There's a thread on here somewhere about expanding the memory to 5MB, also a link to a 'sort-of' tech manual for the 3100.

            I assume you have CHAD and TEST3, the two main utilities.

            Yeah, great keyboard! No problem getting at the battery, just 3 screws from the bottom and a shield underneath the kb IIRC; battery's near the rear.

            Good luck, and enjoy!

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              #21
              Originally posted by MikeS View Post
              Nice; as you probably know, the 3100e uses a normal IDE HD and has a 1.44MB floppy, nicer than the 3100.

              There's a thread on here somewhere about expanding the memory to 5MB, also a link to a 'sort-of' tech manual for the 3100.

              I assume you have CHAD and TEST3, the two main utilities.

              Yeah, great keyboard! No problem getting at the battery, just 3 screws from the bottom and a shield underneath the kb IIRC; battery's near the rear.

              Good luck, and enjoy!
              Yeah I opened it up in the end, not to replace the battery as I don't have a replacement anyway, but just to check that the dead one wasn't leaking (I bought a Mac IIfx out recently that I'd put into storage in working order, and in the years it'd been stored it turns out the battery had leaked and destroyed the motherboard. So I'm super-careful about dead batteries now.) Anyway the one in the T3100e looked fine, but I physically removed it just in case. It seemed safer.

              But yeah I have all the utilities. I put Toshiba's own DOS 5.0 on in the end, so that should include everything. And I downloaded Net Tamer and got the thing online via dialup connection.

              Now I have a new toy, a T3200SX, which should give me better expansion options. I wanted to get an 8-bit soundcard for the T3100e, but the prices of those these days are just silly. But with a T3200SX I can just drop in the16-bit Soundblaster that I already have kicking around. The T3200SX is in nice condition; screen works fine, no hinge problems and it even has 5MB of RAM. Only problem is that the hard drive has gone on it and I'm not really looking forward to stripping this down far enough to replace that (if I can even find a suitable replacement.) The most annoying thing at the moment is that because the CMOS battery has gone, it always starts up with the hard drive enabled. Which means that every time I boot it I have to wait for it to spend about five minutes (or so it seems) trying to read a dead hard drive before it gives up and I can boot from floppy. So I think it's more important to replace the battery on this than the T3100e so I can leave the hard drive permanently disabled. It's a great machine though.

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