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Macintosh Plus Analog Board repair

Theoryboy

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2020
Messages
42
Location
Ireland
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My Plus before the analog board died.



Hi, I am trying to get my Plus back up and running. Its a 240V/International Analog version. I have recapped it and checked the diodes, and optoisolator, but I still get the flup flup flup no power on.
Apart from the Dead Mac Scrolls, is there any other reference or guides on repairing these?
 
There's a lot more to the analog board than just the capacitors, diodes and optoisolator.

I would first check the flyback to see if it's good or bad. Look at the glue on the top of the flyback coil and see if it looks heat damaged. It should be yellow, if it's brown or dark brown/black, it could mean the flyback is failing. You can check for arcing if you turn the machine on in a dark place and look for corona discharge, which is a purple glow, which usually makes a hissing/whining sound and also usually creates ozone.

If the flyback is fine, I'd recommend reflowing every last solder joint on the analog board and the neck board with new solder. Compact Mac analog boards are notorious for having failing solder joints due to the excessive heat inside the machine. Sometimes you can see them, which looks like a second ring somewhere between the PCB and the soldered pin, but often times you can't because they're microscopic.

Another thing is what type of capacitor did you use for the horizontal deflection? It's the large 3.9uF bipolar capacitor. You can't use a normal capacitor here due to the high frequency, and since this type of capacitor is no longer available in electrolytic style, you'll have to use a polypropylene film capacitor rated for high frequency.
 
Thanks very much for your in depth answer. Yes I kept the 3.9uF in place. My flyback seems fine, in use there was no ozone smell, arcing , and the glue is still yellow. My screen was stable before it died.

I reflowed all the solder joints, and found a few suspect ones but no change.
It just wont start the power supply side.
 
Hi, just a little update. I think it was the Schottky after all. I took a chance on this as it looked a bit cooked. I replaced both CR20/CR21 though.




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Yeah those parts deffo look like they had a bad time. Good it was an easier fix.

I had a GBU406 go thermonuclear on a customer's Macintosh SE awhile back and it smoked up the whole house. That analog board had been baffling me with weird behavior until that time, when the duff component revealed itself. Unfortunately it took out the analog board with it by burning the board.
 
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