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Broken Color Classic. Can you help?

TanruNomad

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
563
Location
San Diego, CA
Picked up a color classic a few weeks back, knowing it wasn't working. Finally started messing with it today so here's I got:

The computer turns on (fan works, HD spins), but ONLY if the mobo is removed. Yes that's right, if the mobo is connected, nada. I've tried using several adb keyboards just in case the soft startup key wasn't working. I've tested the pram battery (3.6 volts) on my IIGS and it works fine so its not that (unless I need a brand new one with full voltage?). I've taken the whole thing apart, checked all connections, re-seated all chips and the ram. The monitor doesn't show anything on the screen with or without the mobo connected, but if I turn the computer on without it and then stick it in while its powered on then SOMETIMES, it tricks the computer and the monitor comes on, but nothing more.

Whatcha think? I'd like it get it working.
 
My guess would be bad capacitors. Macs at that age often need recapping. I had to do it with my LC (which is about the same era as your Color Classic.)
 
You may want to buy compatible tantalum capacitors to help future proof your repairs. Also, I think it looks nifty if you get black colored caps. Looks... stealthy. ;)
 
Another cheap option is a Performa 550 board, nice drop in replacement.. same with a 575.. The CC is pretty limited with what it can do, Mine is stock other then the 040 upgrade in the PDS Slot..
 
Have you tried leaving your CC plugged-in overnight with the rear power switch on? If it starts up the next day it's almost certainly bad surface-mount caps on the motherboard. Mine was doing that and a recap completely cured it. This page is an excellent guide to recapping vintage Macs - it tells you how many of what type of capacitor you'll need and offers helpful suggestions. I ordered my replacement caps (black tantalum Nichicons) from Digi-Key.
 
Make sure you use two soldering pencils. I can't tell you how many times I've torn off the contact pads on a motherboard when attempting to remove the caps by doing one side at a time. Also, be patient and don't push too hard. The old solder might take a good while to liquify before allowing the capacitor to come off. The old cap should eventually just slide off with relative ease.

Also, I've found solder paste to be immeasurably helpful for me. I have shaky hands, so I could never hold my solder or iron steady enough. Inevitably I'd push the cap off the pads, or I'd fling hot solder everywhere when my hand jerks, making a complete mess. Now I just get a toothpick, put a dab of solder paste on it, place it on the pads or wherever I'm gonna solder, and just touch the iron to the paste. It kinda bubbles and melts, then makes a perfect connection. :)

Doesn't work for everything, but it does wonders for me.
 
Another cheap option is a Performa 550 board, nice drop in replacement.. same with a 575.. The CC is pretty limited with what it can do, Mine is stock other then the 040 upgrade in the PDS Slot..

Isn't the "Mystic Upgrade" for the CC in actuality an LC475 mobo?

I should be getting my hands on a CC shortly. YAY! A thousand years I've been looking for one...
 
I've got an old Mac Clone with a G3 upgrade not made by Sonnet, I can get the company sometime later tonight since I'm on the bus now.
 
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