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Forum Rules and Etiquette

Our mission ...

This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


Rule 1: Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.


Rule 2: Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.



Rule 3: Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.


Rule 4: "PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.


Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.


New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.


Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
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Getting old Mac software from the interenet without a modern Mac

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  • sqpat
    replied
    I posted my method of doing this just now in another thread.

    Basically to sum it up, if your old mac has a working zip drive, you can create an HFS zip drive image (dd one or use HFVExplorer), use HFVexplorer to copy the contents of a .dsk file into it (such as the stuffit application) then you can use dd from a linux or mac machine or vm to burn this image to the zip drive. At this point, once the classic mac has stuffit, you can probably just use the a linux vm with hfsplus package to copy .sit files to the zip disk without full imaging every time.

    Caveat is you need the zip drive drivers already working on the classic mac.

    Leave a comment:


  • dhoelzer
    replied
    I use Iomega Jaz disks myself

    Leave a comment:


  • olePigeon
    replied
    I'm a big fan of Megneto Optical drives. I have a couple Fujitsu 2.3GB drives.

    Leave a comment:


  • Unknown_K
    replied
    Ethernet is the easiest once set up (either using FTP or just file sharing with a server), but for small files a CDROM drive or removable media works well enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • olePigeon
    replied
    I use ethernet and good ol' FTP.

    Leave a comment:


  • dhoelzer
    replied
    After getting a working OS 8.1 running and then a 9.2.2 via CD images, I now download directly to the vintage Macs. Why bother going through a modern system at that point?

    Leave a comment:


  • trr94001
    replied
    If your older Mac has Ethernet then AppleShare becomes a possibility. I use a titanium PowerBook G4 running OS 9.2.2 to get games onto my Color Classic. You could go direct to the net instead but as bad as it is, Classilla is much better on the modern web than any browser that runs on a 68k Mac.

    If your old machine doesn't have Ethernet you could still do LocalTalk if your inbetweener machine has serial ports.

    Leave a comment:


  • Zippy Zapp
    replied
    Yeah large .sit files for ISOs can be a pain. I have stuffit on my MacBook Pro so for large ISOs I unstuff it there and burn it with Toast. But for sit files and large updates that is all part of the experience. heh.

    Leave a comment:


  • flashedbios2012
    replied
    The major problem is dealing with large ISOs for G3 and G4 Games or other software. It takes FOREVER to unstuff them, even on a dual 1.42 under OS 9. Maybe I'm just spoiled by my q6600 with an SSD, but I do my downloading in the evening, then queue up SIT files to unstuff overnight, then it shut down.

    Leave a comment:


  • Zippy Zapp
    replied
    I use a modern MacBook Pro and burn files downloaded to CDs. (USB Burner) All PowerMacs have a CD drive. For the ones that don't I have a SCSI external drive a SCSI ZIP drive and a few SyQuest Drives that can be used as go betweens. If they are disk images it is fairly easy to write them using one of the PowerMacs. In some cases for the more modern Macs (G3/G4) I have shares setup on newer Macs with a lot of storage. But mostly it is easiest to use CDs for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • T-Squared
    replied
    Well, a method I use (it's not pretty, but it works) is to use a Powerbook series laptop (the one I have is a 165c). I've been able to get Reader Rabbit and Wolfenstein 3D to work on it. All I do is convert any non-compressed/HQXed files to HQX format on my Macbook, and then split the files up into separate text chunks, use Mac-ette to create a Macintosh-compatible disk, transfer the text chunks, and reassemble them on the old Powerbook and convert them back into program data.
    Last edited by T-Squared; August 6, 2017, 04:38 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • TravisHuckins
    replied
    Originally posted by Unknown_K View Post
    First off if you use a PC don't save any file on a fat formatted drive because it will destroy the resource fork and be unusable on an old Mac (NTFS works fine). Some files should be installable with a double click, *.sit files will need a version of Stuffit (free and found online). I keep newer machines around for downloading and a Win2k server for file storage (last version to have built in Apple shares). Ethernet between machines works well, ZIP disks help.
    I guess I won't have to worry about this because the only FAT32 drives my PC has are USB flash drives... and my old Mac doesn't have USB.

    Also my Mac has a CDrom drive that can read burnt CDs so that's how I would get software on it. I do have a few games on it (Lemmings and Sim City 2000) but that's only because I still have the floppy disks.
    Last edited by TravisHuckins; August 6, 2017, 10:14 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • SomeGuy
    replied
    I've also used a Freenas server for exchanging files between Mac and PC. Works great, but that assumes the Mac has an Ethernet port and already has a functional OS installed.

    If you are not allergic to floppy disks, it is possible (although tricky) to write Macintosh 400k/800k floppy disk images using a Kryoflux. Even a brain-dead USB floppy drive will write 1.44mb Macintosh disks images but you would still need a tool to create the disk images with the files you want. And splitting large files is a headache. Programs like "Macdrive 95" enabled Win9x to recognize and read/write files directly to 1.44mb Mac formatted disks.

    Some people have previously mentioned using a SCSI Iomega Zip drive for the purpose of moving files back and forth.

    Using Basillisk II it is possible to connect a Mac SCSI hard drive to a PC SCSI controller and use it directly as a drive within the emulator. Not good for every day back-and-forth transfers but useful for getting a Mac installed, set up, or backed up.

    I agree that sites offering downloads in pure SIT format is rather useless these days. Sadly, much Mac software has only been preserved in that format. Redumps from floppy or CD are badly needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • jmetal88
    replied
    I'll second the 'G3 as a tweener' notion. I'm actually using a G3-upgraded Powerbook 1400C for that purpose, with a Lucent/Orinoco WaveLAN PCMCIA card for network connectivity.

    Leave a comment:


  • KC9UDX
    replied
    The best "tweener" for a Mac is an Amiga. It can make 3" Mac disks of any size, and even run Mac software. If forks get lost, or otherwise out of sort, they can be easily righted from within AmigaOS.

    But to download files with one these days can be very expensive. So you pretty much need another machine to do the downloading anyway.

    Leave a comment:

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