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This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


Rule 1: Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.


Rule 2: Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.



Rule 3: Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.


Rule 4: "PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.


Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.


New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.


Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
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5150 networking recommendations

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  • modem7
    replied
    Originally posted by Stone View Post
    Laplink requires you to run it on both computers so I'm not confident you can use it on the Win 7 machine.
    It can be done (with caveats). A procedure for LapLink 3 is at http://www.minuszerodegrees.net/transfer/transfer.htm
    Not something I would suggest though as a long term file transfer method.

    Leave a comment:


  • bettablue
    replied
    Originally posted by Stone View Post
    Laplink requires you to run it on both computers so I'm not confident you can use it on the Win 7 machine. What version of Lantastic? Not all of them will run under Windows, either, but I know v. 8 will.
    I actually have a few software titles to choose from. Those are only the onces I was interested in. Of these, I have several versions. I think I have all totalled, about 2 or 3 versions of Lantastic. However, if there is a single program that I can run from the IBM to access the shared directories, I'm all ears! I want to take a program or file from the shared folder on my Win 7 computer, and copy it to one of the two internal hard disks installed into the expansion unit; something with a simple interface, that won't require it to be run on both computers like Laplink, However, at least I know Laplink enough to use it easily.

    I also have several options for copying data from one of my other computers to the IBM too, but all of them still need to be set up. I have a Laplink 3 Null Modem cable, I purchased from modem7, for use with either my primary computer, or the Tweener I built up from an old Gateway P2 computer that was given to me. By setting up a dual boot scenario I could use Lapklink on either machine to store the data and access it from the IBM. Then there is the Zip disk method. The Gateway Tweener has an internal 100 Meg Zip drive, and there is an external 100 Meg Zip drive connected to LPT2 on the IBM, so I could use that, but I still need to get that set up and tested before I spend the $10.00 for the final release of that program.

    I guess right now though, the only way to bring data to the IBM is via floppy disk. The tweener has a native 5.25" DSDD 360 Kb floppy drive. The drive has been tested to read and write to known good floppy disks just fine. I'm still trying to muddle my way through formatting some of the "bad" floppy disks I have. I have a full stack of disks that I know are good, if I can just get them to format properly, then I'll have a great supply. Some of these floppies, I just bought as NOS.

    So yeah, there are still a few things I'm working on. But I'm close to finally finishing the hardware setup. Once I get the network adapter installed and connected to my network, I'll be finished and can really move on to the software end of things.

    I will still keep my eyes and ears open for other options as the arise, but for now I have quite enough to do with a much degraded mental capacity. New medications are driving me crazier than I already was!

    Again, thanks everyone.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stone
    replied
    Laplink requires you to run it on both computers so I'm not confident you can use it on the Win 7 machine. What version of Lantastic? Not all of them will run under Windows, either, but I know v. 8 will.

    Leave a comment:


  • bettablue
    replied
    As always, I get the best advice from these forums.

    I made a deal with a member of the forums to purchase one of his for a very good price, so once my first LTD check comes in, which will be as early as Monday or Tuesday, I'll do as tha man says; you pays your money and takes your chances, but in this case, I'm guaranteed that the card will work.

    I have a couple of network programs to use on my 5150 set up. But I'm not completely sure if one is really better than the others. All I'm going to use it for is to connect to my Windows 7's shared hard resources. My Win 7 computer actually has three HDDs, a 500Gig primary "C" drive, a 1 TB Secondary "D" drive and a 1.5 TB "E" drive. All of the resources for the IBM PC are stored on a shared directory structure on the "D" drive. It's broken down into multiple folders with the largest being my DOS game collection which has 9500 folders (Approx 7500 games) using 7.67 Gigs of storage space.

    I have a list of programs that looks pretty good. In particular, IBM LAN Client for DOS, Laplink 3, or Lantastic. At least these are the one I'm focussing on, unless I find something better.

    Thanks again everyone.

    Leave a comment:


  • DOS lives on!!
    replied
    Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
    How about this one? Cheap, jumpered and NE2000 compatible. The docs claim it's 8-bit or 16-bit.
    Heck, that's essentially an Addtron AE-200LC card. Cheap and NE2000 I agree with, but I don't think mine was jumpered. So this one will be quite easier to setup. Guess those variants were designed with an echo in mind.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stone
    replied
    Originally posted by bettablue View Post
    I agree with all of you here though. Why would anyone sell a piece like that if it's not working?? Am I also to assume that there are those out there who will assemble a complete system out of bad parts just for display? It wouldn't surprise me. But then again why would one buy a card like this knowing it was bad?
    I don't know if anyone assembles complete systems made of bad parts but there are definately those who display individual components and these are solely for display purposes so functionality is not relevent to them. I'm getting ready to sell some of my prize 'doorstops' to collectors of this ilk.

    Leave a comment:


  • Chuck(G)
    replied
    Thomas, I've seen pulls of bipolar PROMs sold on eBay. Maybe they figure that you want to paint it metallic green and hang it on the wall?

    Seriously, I think it's just the appropriate weasel words making it clear that they couldn't test it and therefore warrant its operation. You pays your money and you takes your chances.

    How about this one? Cheap, jumpered and NE2000 compatible. The docs claim it's 8-bit or 16-bit.
    Last edited by Chuck(G); July 10, 2012, 03:35 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bettablue
    replied
    Oh, no... The card I have is the same model, but definitely not from the same source. Mine came from a questionable PS1 that was given to me through posts I make in Craigslist in Vegas. It was eventually stripped and sold/scrappred for parts. When the previous owner gave it to me, he had no clue of the network adapter worked or not. I know the sound card and another card in the system worked, but there was a least one other card that didn't. I don't remember which. I do remember that I recycled the system because too much of it didn't work. So, I will be perfectly OK with the assumption that with this and all of the work we tried and were still not able to get to work, then I'm pretty safe in thinking that the card is bad.

    I agree with all of you here though. Why would anyone sell a piece like that if it's not working?? Am I also to assume that there are those out there who will assemble a complete system out of bad parts just for display? It wouldn't surprise me. But then again why would one buy a card like this knowing it was bad?



    Originally posted by Stone View Post
    You didn't get it from the same source as the link you provided, did you? Because the operative message in that sale is:

    This piece of history is rare and will be a fine addition to your vintage computer collection. Due to age sold As-Is.

    ... and we know what that means.









    Leave a comment:


  • RWallmow
    replied
    Originally posted by bettablue View Post
    The card I'm using is the same as the one on E-Bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-EtherE...item2c5cf3a40e

    Personally, I think the card is bad, maybe static shocked or who knows. Ed and I have done everything that has been provided to me by way of instructions, directions, reading materials galore, even Mbrutemans guide to tcpip. We installed the packet drivers which were sent by Jimmy, which looked like a great solution; at first, but for some reason, we can't even get the card to be recognized by the PC. Of course that could mean that the machine isn't set up to recognize the IRQ, but I have the IRQ on this card set to 3.

    Outside of that, I have searched and found downloaded driver installation guides. Intel.com has been a seemongly great resource too. I have gone through as much of the documentation as possible, and what pertaines to DOS. I have to admit, Intel has a lot of information from troubleshooting to downloads and drivers.

    Now maybe there is something else I missed.
    That card you linked, I don't see jumpers on it, Is there a separate config program that you need to run first to set the card to IRQ3? I have a similar vintage jumper-less 3com EL-III card that MUST be software configured before you can install its drivers (for DOS anyways, it has a PNP windows mode, but that's not applicable to DOS).

    EDIT: Also are you sure that card will work in an 8-bit slot? Many people have claimed my EL-III card should work in an 8-bit slot, but I could never get it to install (or detect with its config util), which is why I got the WD cards I use now.

    EDIT2: I see reference to a "softset" utility to configure the card, have you done this step?

    Leave a comment:


  • Stone
    replied
    You didn't get it from the same source as the link you provided, did you? Because the operative message in that sale is:

    This piece of history is rare and will be a fine addition to your vintage computer collection. Due to age sold As-Is.

    ... and we know what that means.









    Leave a comment:


  • bettablue
    replied
    The card I'm using is the same as the one on E-Bay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-EtherE...item2c5cf3a40e

    Personally, I think the card is bad, maybe static shocked or who knows. Ed and I have done everything that has been provided to me by way of instructions, directions, reading materials galore, even Mbrutemans guide to tcpip. We installed the packet drivers which were sent by Jimmy, which looked like a great solution; at first, but for some reason, we can't even get the card to be recognized by the PC. Of course that could mean that the machine isn't set up to recognize the IRQ, but I have the IRQ on this card set to 3.

    Outside of that, I have searched and found downloaded driver installation guides. Intel.com has been a seemongly great resource too. I have gone through as much of the documentation as possible, and what pertaines to DOS. I have to admit, Intel has a lot of information from troubleshooting to downloads and drivers.

    Now maybe there is something else I missed.

    Leave a comment:


  • MikeS
    replied
    Originally posted by RWallmow View Post
    Am I missing something? All I saw in the auction was "This item has not been fully tested and is being sold as is." Which is typical of 99% of the vintage PC gear sold on ebay.
    For parts or not working: An item that does not function as intended and is not fully operational.
    I don't know about you guys, but Not fully operational kinda sounds like it's not working; maybe you'll get lucky.

    Leave a comment:


  • Stone
    replied
    Originally posted by DOS lives on!! View Post
    That's just what it says in the generic item description for this auction. Those descriptions barely even apply to the item. The seller chose that because he assumed the worst possible scenario of this card's working order since the seller didn't bother to test it.
    I'm glad you learned how to read sellers' minds.

    Maybe someone should call them and take them up on their offer regarding their statment: 'If you have any questions or specific testing you would like done please email or call us before bidding. (805) 648-3300'

    Then we would all know exactly what this is all about, wouldn't we?

    Leave a comment:


  • DOS lives on!!
    replied
    Originally posted by Stone View Post
    The card being offered on eBay *DOES NOT WORK*. Read the auction -- it's being sold for parts!!!
    That's just what it says in the generic item description for this auction. Those descriptions barely even apply to the item. The seller chose that because he assumed the worst possible scenario of this card's working order since the seller didn't bother to test it.

    Leave a comment:


  • mbbrutman
    replied
    Originally posted by Stone View Post
    The card being offered on eBay *DOES NOT WORK*. Read the auction -- it's being sold for parts!!!
    Thanks for clearing that up, but your initial wording is what caused the confusion. It could have very easily been interpreted as "WD Chipset cards do not work", not "That particular card does not work."

    WD chipset cards do work, and are at the upper end of the performance curve for old Ethernet cards.

    Leave a comment:

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