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Any way to replace 5160/5161 power supply?

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    #31
    Those caps look like plain old film capacitors--they rarely go bad. If you do replace them, be sure to check for an "X", "X1" or "X2" mark on them and replace them with similar types--those are "safety" caps, made to fail in a defined way.

    What does the relay do on this PSU?
    Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

    Comment


      #32
      I'm not sure of what the relay does, but I just finally got that board unmounted and scoped out the two caps. One of them is definitely faulty.

      When I scope on the other side of the cap, I get this beautiful sine (and the scope is misreading it as 12v but it's really 120v. It's because my probe had to be on X10 because my scope can't see 120v): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ps143128f2.jpg

      So that cap needs to go. I'm going to look at one of my AT PSU's I use for parts. I may have this exact cap on it since it's filtering line current. I wonder how the cap went though? It's connected directly to the AC outlet connector it seems..
      IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

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        #33
        Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
        Those caps look like plain old film capacitors--they rarely go bad. If you do replace them, be sure to check for an "X", "X1" or "X2" mark on them and replace them with similar types--those are "safety" caps, made to fail in a defined way.

        What does the relay do on this PSU?
        No X mark on it.



        I'm going to try and get as much as original replacement as possible. May not be the same brand, but I'm going to match the specs.
        IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

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          #34
          Whatever, just note that this cap is rated for 125VAC, so don't try to use a polarized cap. Any modern cap is likely to be physically smaller, so you might go to a 250VAC cap to get the same physical size. Try a Nichicon QXL2E104KTPT or a Panasonic ECQ-E2A104MW.
          Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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            #35
            I wouldn't plan on using polarized anyway. The two pins on this cap are directly connected across the AC outlet. DC cap would let out the smoke quite quickly if I did.

            The only capacitor I have at my disposal right now is 275V~, however it's 1.0MFD, not 0.1MFD like the original is, so I can't use that.

            I'm going to go to my local electronics surplus store, they should have a few nichicon caps of this type like you recommended.

            EDIT: Found a compatible replacement in my drawer. It's a 250v~(AC) 0.1uF..
            Last edited by evildragon; February 19, 2013, 03:10 PM.
            IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

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              #36
              Right across the AC line? So its funciton is EMI suppression. So it's either shorted or open. If it's shorted, magic smoke. If it's open, the PSU should work anyway.
              Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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                #37
                Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
                Right across the AC line? So its funciton is EMI suppression. So it's either shorted or open. If it's shorted, magic smoke. If it's open, the PSU should work anyway.
                Yea, after I noticed it was straight across, I started to suspect something else.

                I was able to find that the transformer on that board, it's solder pad had lifted just enough to disconnect. So I patched up the trace, and used the original capacitor, and viola, the PSU now makes it's relay clicks when turned on, and 120v AC is now going all the way to the main PSU board.

                However, the fan still won't spin, and no drives connected turn on. About how much load do these PSU's need to test them? I have a feeling I'm going to need to dig out my 286 motherboard as another test load.

                EDIT: Got the main PSU board out. Oh man there's a LOT of cold solder joints. I'm going to be busy tonight!
                Last edited by evildragon; February 19, 2013, 05:00 PM.
                IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

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                  #38
                  Got done a lot quicker than I thought I was going to take. I thought this would take me a couple days, but I was able to get right to this with zero interruptions.

                  And here's where we are at now.

                  http://youtu.be/JfNxK8lgpLE
                  IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

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                    #39
                    First of all, I can't thank you enough. If I could transform into an anime teenage girl and jump up and down clapping without seeming pervy, I would do that in a heartbeat.

                    Secondly, thank you for the close-up shots of what popped cold soldier joints look like, as well as what testing voltage with a multimeter looks like. I am less scared of electronics now, and if I had known that repairing popped joints was just a matter of heating up the soldier and reflowing it, I might have taken that on. In fact, I think the next time I have something like this happen, I will likely use it as an excuse to buy an iron and just give it a shot.
                    Offering a bounty for:
                    - A working Sanyo MBC-775 or Logabax 1600
                    - Music Construction Set, IBM Music Feature edition (has red sticker on front stating IBM Music Feature)

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                      #40
                      Good job!
                      This space intentionally left blank [ ].

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Originally posted by Trixter View Post
                        First of all, I can't thank you enough. If I could transform into an anime teenage girl and jump up and down clapping without seeming pervy, I would do that in a heartbeat.

                        Secondly, thank you for the close-up shots of what popped cold soldier joints look like, as well as what testing voltage with a multimeter looks like. I am less scared of electronics now, and if I had known that repairing popped joints was just a matter of heating up the soldier and reflowing it, I might have taken that on. In fact, I think the next time I have something like this happen, I will likely use it as an excuse to buy an iron and just give it a shot.
                        I'm glad you're happy, haha. It was quite a surprise after the repairs to the traces and reflowing the bad solder pads (I went ahead and added a little new solder too). At first I was just getting a bump from the fan, but no voltage longer than a split second. Then I figured the load I had may not have been enough. Attached another drive, and the fan ran for a good second, but still died. So then I tried a load that also took the -12v and -5v (a motherboard) and viola, the PSU ran and kept running. I also tested the voltages to make sure they were fine, and if I needed to, adjust it so it was within it's proper range. However, it was so perfect as it is, I didn't bother with adjustments. By the way, the PSU was dated inside under the PSU board, 1983. It's 30 years old.

                        Some of the solder pads required more than reflowing. Some of them were literally ripped from the board, and required a wire that was the right gauge to handle the current, to basically reconnect the traces to their destinations.

                        I'm going to re-use the box you sent me, but put in more extra padding (you packed it very well but I just don't trust the USPS after seeing how badly torn those solder pads were).
                        IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Time for some beer now, lol
                          IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

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                            #43
                            Alls well that ends well:

                            02240003.jpg

                            I believe someone (bettablue?) is running some sort of 5161 owner's database, but I wasn't able to find it in the forum (searching '5161 database' breaks the search functionality)...
                            Offering a bounty for:
                            - A working Sanyo MBC-775 or Logabax 1600
                            - Music Construction Set, IBM Music Feature edition (has red sticker on front stating IBM Music Feature)

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Jim, see here - doesn't look to be online yet.

                              If you do get a soldering iron, I'd suggest getting a temperature controlled station as the simple unregulated irons are next to useless - easy to burn the pads off circuit boards.

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Originally posted by pearce_jj View Post
                                ..as the simple unregulated irons are next to useless - easy to burn the pads off circuit boards.
                                Yep, that's very true. When I started soldering, that happened a lot. I use only temperature controlled ones now.

                                What becomes a pain though, is as I had to deal with Trixters PSU, heavy shock from shipping, caused solder pads from the heavy items like transformers, to literally be ripped off from the PCB. At that point, you have only one choice, to run a new trace, which is why there's some red wire in there now. I hate running new wire, but you gotta do it, if the pads are no longer there.

                                In this photo, you can see what I initially missed when I thought it was a capacitor issue, and explains why I thought the cap was bad. I was probing the cap from the points it connects too, not directly off the cap itself (which was a mistake on my part).



                                That isn't just a cracked solder joint, that pad is just gone.

                                So what I did was this, for mechanical reliability. Now I couldn't do this on all of the problem points as you'll se later, but if you notice, there's two solder pads directly after it. They are on the same trace So I'll need to bridge them too with solder or wire. What I did, was took my wire, laid it across them all, and made a rock solid solder connection with the wire, as seen here.



                                That wire is not going anywhere, and it's only mating with the circuit it should be.

                                Now, as I explained earlier, there were some solder points that weren't so easy. This one as you see here, that solder pad was just, gone completely as above, but there was however nothing to solder also nearby on the same trace, to add mechanical reliability. While in this picture, it may not look secure, it actually is. What the picture isn't showing, is that the solder on the wire and that single pin from the transformer, is actually quite thick, and the pin is surrounded. Not too much, and not too little. I tested the reliability. I was not able to pull off that wire.. So as long as you don't play soccer with the PSU, that wire isn't coming off (and I don't think it'll even come off then!).



                                So yea, I do recommend a temperature controlled iron, but in the cases of where the solder pads are already missing, you're in a whole different ball park.
                                IBM PS/2 Model 25, NEC V30 8MHz, 640KB RAM, ATI VGA Wonder XL, 2GB SSD, Ethernet, DR DOS 6/GeOS, Xircom PE3 Ethernet

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