Announcement

Collapse

Forum etiquette

Our mission ...

This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.


Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.



Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.


"PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.


Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.


New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.


Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
See more
See less

IBM Model F Keyboard Stuck Key errors... fixable?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    IBM Model F Keyboard Stuck Key errors... fixable?

    So, I came into possession of a Model F 83 key keyboard a couple years ago when a business closed. It was in storage since 1984 in its original box. The box reads "defective 7-6-1984" in marker. Inside is a printout of a report regarding the keyboard being taken to a repair shop back in 84. They said "the electronics inside had probably failed" and that it'd cost almost $200 to fix it, so they just replaced it with an aftermarket keyboard.

    Fast forward to today and I just repaired the motherboard on my first IBM 5150 (more on that in another thread soon!) and I'm really excited to get this system running. The keyboard is showing stuck key errors and it prevents "Basic" from loading properly when it is connected. The system will simply stop at various stages of the Basic screen loading (part way through words, etc.). Before basic starts to load I've gotten "3c 301", "05 301" and "01 301" errors so far. Mashing on the respective keys (thanks to a list of scancodes I found) before turning the system back on seemed at first to move the error to a different scancode but it has repeatedly given me "01 301" a few times now... it may go to another later.

    So, what do you think? Bad cable? Bad component on the circuit board? Actual stuck keys?? Where should I start? When I opened it I did notice that the black tacky tape stuff is incredibly gooey and left black residue on my fingers when I touched it... but its hard to tell if this could actually get into the keys. I didn't take it apart that far. I didn't see any visibly damaged components, but I doubt enough goes on inside one of these for anything to burn\explode anyway.

    I don't see any indication that anything was spilled on it and its in incredibly good shape. The cord even looks pretty solid to me... but that doesn't mean much.

    Any suggestions?

    Here is the keyboard I have:
    http://www.clickykeyboards.com/index...id/0/id/571249

    The box says IBM Personal Computer Keyboard 1501100.

    The computer I'm using it on is a 64-256 with what appears to be the '82 bios (if I'm identifying it right), all memory banks full, an AMD 8088 and no expansion cards currently installed other than a Quadcolor I CGA card.
    Last edited by Ozzuneoj; December 14, 2015, 09:04 PM.

    #2
    I just went through a fairly extensive cleaning (and then repair) of a Model F.

    There really isn't much that can go wrong inside of one. There is a circuit board which is cradled/bent to conform to a steel backing plate to give it the curve. The electronics are on that circuit board so there are no ribbon connectors to go bad. The electronics are fairly simple; the keyboard controller IC is probably not easy to replace without salvaging one from another keyboard.

    It's possible that there is something foreign in the keyboard that is causing the capacitive circuitry to trigger. Dis-assembly and cleaning is a pain but it can be done.

    Comment


      #3
      I'd guess a rocker plate (probably the wrong word) has come loose but that's a guess rather than a diagnosis - just from working with my own Model F's. I had the same symptoms when the plate under my ESC key went a little off to the side.

      I never finished mine, and should probably give it another crack.
      Other members on here have removed the PCB from the rocker/key assembly, sorted stuff out, and successfully reassembled.

      I'd start by checking the cable using a multimeter. The keyboard is easy enough to open - two flathead screws I think? or is it four?
      Then check for dry joints. If there is any obvious faults - you certainly want to pick this up before you separate the PCB-key sandwich - but I do doubt it's the electronics.
      Twitter / YouTube

      Comment


        #4
        Some pictures so that you know what you are dealing with:

        IBM_5150_Keyboard_internals_1.jpg

        This is where the magic happens - the circuit board. You can see the areas where the capacitive sensing is done.

        IBM_5150_Keyboard_internals_2.jpg

        This is the backside of the assembly - the steel plate that holds the circuit board in place and gives it its curve. Notice the minimal electronics.

        IBM_5150_Keyboard_barrel_frame_underside.jpg

        This is the underside of the plastic "barrel frame". The keys pop into the other side and travel up and down in the barrels. This side is where the flip plates (below) sit and pivot. The springs poke through to the underside of the keys.

        IBM_5150_Keyboard_flip_plate_and_spring.jpg

        And this is a flip plate - there is one for each key. Wikipedia has an excellent animation that shows how the spring and flip plate interact: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/F...tion-300ms.gif

        Comment


          #5
          Is that crud or glue between the 2 small IC's ?

          IBM_5150_kbd.jpg

          Larry G

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by retrogear View Post
            Is that crud or glue between the 2 small IC's ?



            Larry G
            Crud? Glue? Neither. The area you circled has about five components (mostly resistors) in it.
            PM me if you're looking for 3½" or 5¼" floppy disks. EMail “ ” For everything else, Take Another Step

            Comment


              #7
              yea, I see the components but it just looks like gray crap in the middle. probably my eyes ...

              Comment


                #8
                Instead of speculating why not just wait for me to answer the question?

                IBM_5150_Keyboard_internals_3.jpg

                No crud at all ... just resistors. I would not have put a keyboard back together after an extensive cleaning and left an obvious problem in place ...

                Comment


                  #9
                  The problem here sounds to me like either the plate is somehow loose causing bad contact, somehow a liquid or something got in and is causing issues or just a bad controller in general. These work using capacitance rather than metal-on-metal contact so any foreign substance can trigger a keypress (even your fingers on the PCB). There's a nice disassembly guide on the 5155 board here: http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/...ard-t7644.html . The process is the same except a PC (XT) board has two screws to get it open rather than removing plastic stuff.

                  If there does turn out to be a PCB\controller problem these boards are dirt cheap. It's not hard to get one for $30-40 shipped, especially if you don't mind going through and cleaning yourself.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Compgeke View Post
                    If there does turn out to be a PCB\controller problem these boards are dirt cheap.
                    Ya', if you want on that's listed as 'for parts only', or 'not working'. Suppose the failed part is the one you need? Then you're stuck with two keyboards that both need the same part!
                    PM me if you're looking for 3½" or 5¼" floppy disks. EMail “ ” For everything else, Take Another Step

                    Comment


                      #11
                      >I would not have put a keyboard back together after an extensive cleaning and left an obvious problem in place ...

                      Lost track of who the OP was ...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I've an 84-key model F that needs new foam... keys hit and miss. Bits of the foam layer poke out from the metal plates, and that disentegrates. It's a future project.... love the feel of that board.
                        ---
                        Currently seeking:
                        * Roland MPU-401/AT (with daughter card header)
                        * Magitronic K-156 Keyboard (5pin DIN w/ XT-AT switch)
                        I also collect PC and C64 Sierra On-Line software!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks so much for all the input! I've dismantled this keyboard down to the PCB with only the cable plugged in and I'm still getting random stuck key errors. Its too bad, this thing is spotless inside... its obviously been in its box for 32 years.

                          Any suggestions as to what to do from here? I just have the PCB laying on my desk with the cable plugged into it, so there's no chance of anything conductive touching the pads. Maybe this isn't a proper test?

                          If this does in fact mean that its a problem with the circuit board, I can't find any information about people trying to fix these. There are several disassembly pages online but nothing about actually fixing or replacing components and diagnosing problems. Basically, something is telling the computer that random keys are being held down, and it is causing the system to lock up while getting through POST. There are two small ICs, the large black Intel chip and a small silver square IBM chip. Is it possible that the electrolytic capacitors have gone out of spec and need replaced? I know that that happens with speakers\amplifiers of this age.

                          EDIT: I found a very detailed thread related to these keyboards here:
                          http://www.vintage-computer.com/vcfo...p/t-43923.html
                          ... but it just kind of ends with no resolution sadly. There's also no mention of stuck keys, so... who knows.

                          I really don't want to spend $120 to get a working keyboard for this computer. Is there any alternative? Aftermarket keyboards that are more common? Adapters to use "newer" keyboards on a 5150?
                          Last edited by Ozzuneoj; December 19, 2015, 06:12 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Where in Pa. are you?

                            I've got several keyboards for a 5150.
                            PM me if you're looking for 3½" or 5¼" floppy disks. EMail “ ” For everything else, Take Another Step

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Ozzuneoj View Post
                              I really don't want to spend $120 to get a working keyboard for this computer. Is there any alternative? Aftermarket keyboards that are more common? Adapters to use "newer" keyboards on a 5150?
                              Lots of people use the PS/2-to-XT converter described here. If I had to do it today, I'll probably use a Chinese Maple Mini clone to do the heavy lifting. (How times have changed--the Mimi has several times the power of the 5160 and costs $4 shipped from China...)

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X