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Anyone Selling XT-IDE Cards?

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    #31
    Re D7 PD, this is for device detection. CSEL should be tied directly to ground (sorry if this is already caught). Nice PCB layout (and colour!).

    There is a Lo-tech full IDE PCB too btw.

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by glitch View Post

      I have a few question about your XT-ide board..

      1. Is it possible to get this PCB in a different color ( i would prefer green instead)

      2. Is it possible to edit /move some of the tekst on the PCB.

      3. Like to know if you can make the kit somewhat cheaper to only provide the parts that are hard to get (seems that the IC chips easilly could be bought by the buyer on ebay or so. (like the bracket)

      4. Which ROM / bios are you going to use?

      5. Why is interrupt 2 right behind interrupt 7 ? and not 2,3,5,7


      I really have intrest to order 5 boards, but before that i really would like see a working example. Maybe i could buy a bigger lot from you.. (20 and or 30 pieces) but i really need think about that.
      Last edited by Robin4; May 4, 2016, 05:41 PM.
      THE BIOS MASTER

      Comment


        #33
        Interrupts are not used in the XTIDE Universal BIOS anyway.

        Comment


          #34
          Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
          1. Is it possible to get this PCB in a different color ( i would prefer green instead)
          The purple is just a prototype rendering from OSH Park. The final boards will be deep cyan blue. You are of course welcome to run them in a color of your choosing, but I'll be doing a single run of a single color to keep costs down.

          Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
          2. Is it possible to edit /move some of the tekst on the PCB.
          Yes, but I've placed the current text where it is to try and keep the board self-documenting. What do you think should be moved?

          Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
          3. Like to know if you can make the kit somewhat cheaper to only provide the parts that are hard to get (seems that the IC chips easilly could be bought by the buyer on ebay or so. (like the bracket)
          The short answer to this is, "probably no." I will likely pull parts for a number of kits and bag them up. Splitting out parts and figuring out what the remaining kit bits should cost is more work for me. Besides, I doubt the average person, buying quantities of 2-3 ICs at a time, will be able to beat my kit costs if purchasing from reputable suppliers (i.e. actual parts suppliers, not some random guy on eBay).

          Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
          4. Which ROM / bios are you going to use?
          Assembled boards will probably ship with the 1.x series Universal BIOS. I will be using Atmel 28C64B 8K EEPROMs unless there's a lot of demand for 28C256. The board can of course use any of the available BIOSes since I've left the jumpers for the Chuck Mod on.

          Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
          5. Why is interrupt 2 right behind interrupt 7 ? and not 2,3,5,7
          Because that was the easiest way to lay it out. If this actually bothers people I'm sure I can put them in order. As pearce_jj said, interrupts aren't even used on this board.

          Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
          I really have intrest to order 5 boards, but before that i really would like see a working example. Maybe i could buy a bigger lot from you.. (20 and or 30 pieces) but i really need think about that.
          And before any one individual decides they want 20 or 30, they'll need to put cash up front! I got stuck with a huge surplus of various expensive components (anyone need Eurobus connectors?) after a previous failed kit project, wherein many people said they wanted kits, but no one wanted to pay for them when I'd gotten all of the components together. Lesson learned.
          Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by pearce_jj View Post
            Re D7 PD, this is for device detection. CSEL should be tied directly to ground (sorry if this is already caught). Nice PCB layout (and colour!).

            There is a Lo-tech full IDE PCB too btw.
            Thanks for the clarification! I'd figured out CSEL needed to be tied to ground, but I'd left the pull-down on D7 just because I wasn't 100% sure about its function.
            Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More

            Comment


              #36
              Isnt a production run on a green pcb not cheaper then deep cyan blue, because green was the basic color back then and was used for a lot of ISA card.. Deep cyan blue would be a more special color to me so it would be more expensiver.

              At question 3: I presume that you going to sell a full kit then? So the buyer dont have to look after the right parts.

              Why are there interrupt settings on the board if the universal bios dont use them at all? And does this adapter then works faster without these interrupt settings? (faster transfer rate)
              THE BIOS MASTER

              Comment


                #37
                The IRQs can be removed, all the BIOS does is request a transfer then poll the status bit, then rep INSW to transfer the sector (with chuck mod). Writes are slower with this MUX design, of course writes are less frequent in practice.

                Comment


                  #38
                  Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
                  Isnt a production run on a green pcb not cheaper then deep cyan blue...
                  Not necessarily. Individual board houses (mostly all in China now) base their raw PCB prices very close, irregardless of silk-screen color. Personally I'd prefer any blue board over a green one since soldering issues are far easier to inspect on a blue board than a green one.

                  Comment


                    #39
                    Originally posted by pearce_jj View Post
                    then rep INSW to transfer the sector (with chuck mod)
                    It just dawned on me, this won't work on dodgy systems like the AT&T PC 6300. If the "Chuck Mod" is permanent, then this board has no chance of working in those systems, does it?
                    Offering a bounty for:
                    - A working Sanyo MBC-775 or Logabax 1600
                    - Music Construction Set, IBM Music Feature edition (has red sticker on front stating IBM Music Feature)

                    Comment


                      #40
                      Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
                      Isnt a production run on a green pcb not cheaper then deep cyan blue, because green was the basic color back then and was used for a lot of ISA card.. Deep cyan blue would be a more special color to me so it would be more expensiver.
                      With the board house I use, solder mask costs the same regardless of color. The fact that the board is an ISA card has no bearing on its cost, other than the added expense of having the edge connector plated with hard gold.

                      Not to be flippant with anyone, but I do have extensive experience in managing small production runs of PC boards. It's part of what I do for a living. I'd like to think I'm decent at it!

                      Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
                      At question 3: I presume that you going to sell a full kit then? So the buyer dont have to look after the right parts.
                      Yes, there will be a full kit, and I'll probably take the time to write an assembly manual, or at least do a writeup on my assembly of an example board.

                      Originally posted by Robin4 View Post
                      Why are there interrupt settings on the board if the universal bios dont use them at all? And does this adapter then works faster without these interrupt settings? (faster transfer rate)
                      They exist because someone might want to use them in the future, and they're not hurting anything by being there but not being used. I see no reason to remove functionality and limit potential

                      Originally posted by T-R-A View Post
                      Personally I'd prefer any blue board over a green one since soldering issues are far easier to inspect on a blue board than a green one.
                      I also find the contrast to be better with blue boards, as long as they're not too dark. The board house I'm working with has a very nice deep cyan which really makes the traces stand out. Plus I like to think it differentiates my projects a little bit

                      Originally posted by Trixter View Post
                      It just dawned on me, this won't work on dodgy systems like the AT&T PC 6300. If the "Chuck Mod" is permanent, then this board has no chance of working in those systems, does it?
                      This and BIOS compatibility is why I chose to leave the Chuck Mod as a jumperable option.
                      Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More

                      Comment


                        #41
                        In case anyone is wondering, this is the deep cyan I'm using:



                        This is of course the prototype base board for the 20 mA current loop converter project.
                        Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Would it be possible to change the PCB so it's more conducive for use as a hard card? I'd be using this in a Compaq Portable and would prefer to mount the HDD in the expansion slot area, keeping both original floppies.

                          Perhaps the easiest way would be to have an option for hardcard buyers... make the PCB full length and add mounting holes in the long section?

                          -J
                          My Site (under construction!) | My Apple Lisa 2/10

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by compu_85 View Post
                            Would it be possible to change the PCB so it's more conducive for use as a hard card? I'd be using this in a Compaq Portable and would prefer to mount the HDD in the expansion slot area, keeping both original floppies.

                            Perhaps the easiest way would be to have an option for hardcard buyers... make the PCB full length and add mounting holes in the long section?
                            See this writeup: http://www.glitchwrks.com/2010/12/16/xtide

                            Adding a bunch of blank space for mounting a hard drive would add a lot of cost to the board. Using an industrial Flash module keeps the board compact, draws significantly less power (important for systems like the IBM 5150 PC with its original low wattage supply), and then you don't have to worry about a mechanical hard disk, especially in a portable machine. Personally I use an XT-IDE with industrial Flash module in my Leading Edge Model D, which lets me keep both floppy drives and not worry about overloading its supply.

                            I'll be selling various capacities of industrial Flash modules as an option for these, too.
                            Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by Trixter View Post
                              It just dawned on me, this won't work on dodgy systems like the AT&T PC 6300. If the "Chuck Mod" is permanent, then this board has no chance of working in those systems, does it?
                              Correct. You will have to use it as a rev 1 card (i.e. compatible mode). However, it is possible to add yet another transfer mode to the BIOS but it wouldn't be much faster than using the existing compatible mode. Also, this additional transfer mode would really only be needed if you absolutely must use a normal harddrive since, when using CF media, you should be able to use other types of controllers such as the XT-CF or even a regular 16-bit IDE controller. And of course, with memory mapped I/O controllers such as the ADP50 there is no problem at all regardless of drive type.
                              Looking for a cache card for the "ICL ErgoPRO C4/66d V"

                              Comment


                                #45
                                Final design, as submitted to the manufacturer:



                                Final design changes:

                                - Extra LED output using a spare inverter from the 74LS04
                                - Few component value tweaks
                                - Added layer for hard gold plating on edge connector

                                Should have prototype boards in hand in about a week.
                                Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More

                                Comment

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