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Forum Rules and Etiquette

Our mission ...

This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


Rule 1: Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.


Rule 2: Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.



Rule 3: Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.


Rule 4: "PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.


Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.


New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.


Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
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Best Motherboard for a 5162/ XT-286

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  • animekenji
    replied
    It wasn't that long ago that you could still get a 5162 for a reasonable price. I guess someone figured out that they are pretty rare and spread the word.

    Leave a comment:


  • race
    replied
    Originally posted by ajacocks View Post
    The frustration is that I already have a 5162 in great condition, minus the motherboard. I really don’t want another complete system.

    I’ve been looking for a year now, with no results.

    - Alex
    Still looking? Just acquired a very clean 5162.

    I don't have any floppies, but it boots up and passes the memory check. Then comes to a blank screen with blinking cursor. The inside is super clean, if you're interested I'd be happy to send some pictures.

    Leave a comment:


  • Exceter
    replied
    Originally posted by SomeGuy View Post
    These days they are encouraged to use burn-out-your-retina-blue LEDs because idiots love them.
    Finding modern computer parts without LED's is, perhaps, my greatest pet peeve when building a modern computer. Modern computers are so modular they might as well be legos and, somehow, people think that a few dollars worth of weird multi-color and or flashing LED's make it look like they have a one of a kind super computer.

    Leave a comment:


  • DDS
    replied
    Originally posted by modem7 View Post
    During my electronics training (which was prior to the 5162), we were told that engineers were being encouraged to use green lights to indicate normal/good and red lights to indicate abnormal/failure. Something like that (it was a long time ago). It made sense to me. And, and in the electronics world that I worked in, it would be so much better to walk into a room of green lights, and instantly know that no equipment is indicating a known fault. And if there is a known fault condition, the red light would allow you to quickly go to the faulty equipment.

    Re drive access LED's. In the case of a floppy drive, you don't want the user removing the floppy whilst the floppy drive's LED is on. In the case of a hard drive, you don't want the user powering off the computer whilst the hard drive's LED is on. Considering the aforementioned green/red philosophy, green is undesired because it would suggest to the user that all is good. And red is undesired because no fault condition exists. So maybe amber was used as something in between, a 'warning'.
    I'm in agreement with the idea of the light color providing status information to an operator, especially nowadays when one can have tricolor LEDs that can switch red/amber/green as needed.

    But it is important to remember that in the early days, as it was with Henry Ford's color choices, (black, black or black) one could have any color LED they wanted, as long as they wanted red.

    Leave a comment:


  • SomeGuy
    replied
    These days they are encouraged to use burn-out-your-retina-blue LEDs because idiots love them.

    Leave a comment:


  • modem7
    replied
    Originally posted by maxtherabbit View Post
    does anyone know why IBM chose to make the LEDs amber on the 5162?
    During my electronics training (which was prior to the 5162), we were told that engineers were being encouraged to use green lights to indicate normal/good and red lights to indicate abnormal/failure. Something like that (it was a long time ago). It made sense to me. And, and in the electronics world that I worked in, it would be so much better to walk into a room of green lights, and instantly know that no equipment is indicating a known fault. And if there is a known fault condition, the red light would allow you to quickly go to the faulty equipment.

    Re drive access LED's. In the case of a floppy drive, you don't want the user removing the floppy whilst the floppy drive's LED is on. In the case of a hard drive, you don't want the user powering off the computer whilst the hard drive's LED is on. Considering the aforementioned green/red philosophy, green is undesired because it would suggest to the user that all is good. And red is undesired because no fault condition exists. So maybe amber was used as something in between, a 'warning'.

    Leave a comment:


  • framer
    replied
    Marketing... To make it different than the AT look?

    framer

    Leave a comment:


  • maxtherabbit
    replied
    does anyone know why IBM chose to make the LEDs amber on the 5162?

    Leave a comment:


  • framer
    replied
    Sell the extra parts. That one inside picture tells the store. It clean and not hacked. You can clean the case and it works. It has a original 5162 HD w/yellow LED. The case is not the computer but that case has value to resell as wll as PS HD HDC/FDC video card MIO card.

    framer

    Leave a comment:


  • animekenji
    replied
    Originally posted by T-R-A View Post
    You're calling $620 reasonable???? Me thinks not.
    It actually would be if it didn't look like it fell off a truck.

    Leave a comment:


  • ajacocks
    replied
    The frustration is that I already have a 5162 in great condition, minus the motherboard. I really don’t want another complete system.

    I’ve been looking for a year now, with no results.

    - Alex

    Leave a comment:


  • framer
    replied
    IMHO it really is a real 5162 MB. It looks to have the original HD with a yellow LED and original floppy. It may be an un-hacked system. It's close to me so and I feel the itch. I'd say bargain, cleaned up worth double but you may not find another at that price if you flip it. It also fas a card in it with an eprom I'm not familiar with, could be of interest. Keyboard and monitor included...

    framer

    Leave a comment:


  • maxtherabbit
    replied
    A nice looking trinitron at that, but it's no 5154

    Leave a comment:


  • Exceter
    replied
    Yes, I am. They're usually over $1000 without a screen and this one comes with a screen. You won't find one cheaper anywhere unless you get extremely lucky or have a buddy who does you a favor. There aren't even any left at Computer Reset. There wasn't even a motherboard. I looked.
    Last edited by Exceter; April 3, 2021, 04:15 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • T-R-A
    replied
    Originally posted by Exceter View Post
    There's a complete 5162 for a reasonable price here: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...7-73651d2ba837
    You're calling $620 reasonable???? Me thinks not.

    Leave a comment:

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