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Tandon TM100 fixing door latch pins??

A

atod

Experienced Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2010
Messages
303
Location
New York, NY
Hi

Has anyone repaired the white pins in this photo? The pin keeps popping out from the black receiver that accepts it. This causes the door latch to not work.

Wondering if anyone has a workaround for these drives.

Thanks



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
This is one of the more common TM100 issues when it's seen hard use, particularly in schools. The too-energetic "flipping" of the latch to open results in the platic latch pin guides breaking. If no one has an extra latch mech for you, you might try simply wrapping a couple of loops of (solid) wire around the guide, so the pin doesn't pop out.
 
I'll try asking around for another latch mech. I was using it more last night and the black portion that wraps around the white pin completely snapped. I tried MEK solvent to join the plastic, but this must not be made of styrene.
 
I've found that methyl chloride works well. Most hobby shops sell Ambroid Pro-Weld or Tenax-7.R, which are both very good solvent cements, much better bond than MEK or even Xylene.
 
I haven't had this problem (yet) with my TM100s, but I've fixed similar problems in other appliances (eg. dishwasher door latch) by tieing the metal axel into place with a little loop of fine steel wire. There's usually something you can loop the wire around to hold the axel in place, or sometimes you might need to bore a tiny hole or two to anchor your wire loop. On these disappearing items, I try to repair/conserve where possible, rather than replace. If using expoxy, you can also put a loop in place first for tensile strength, then add the expoxy for stability.

Rick
 
RickNel said:
...If using expoxy, you can also put a loop in place first for tensile strength, then add the expoxy for stability.
Rick
Click to expand...
Indeed; epoxy alone isn't always strong enough and often a pin or loop or whatever isn't secure enough either, but both together usually gives a very strong joint.
 
I gutted an old Shugart to fix that drive the receiver as you call it had broken off so there was no way of holding the pin in place.
 
Last edited:
I had one of these TM100s with a completely broken pin-holding piece.

I fabricated a new pin holder with a bit of sheet brass and a short length of 3/32 brass rod.

Why brass? It's non-magnetic. You could certainly do the same with stainless steel (non-magnetic alloy; not all alloys are), aluminum, or what-have you.

The result will probably last longer than I will. It's not difficult; just hand tools, but a drill press can come in handy. :)
 
Chuck(G) said:
I had one of these TM100s with a completely broken pin-holding piece.

I fabricated a new pin holder with a bit of sheet brass and a short length of 3/32 brass rod.

Why brass? It's non-magnetic. You could certainly do the same with stainless steel (non-magnetic alloy; not all alloys are), aluminum, or what-have you.

The result will probably last longer than I will. It's not difficult; just hand tools, but a drill press can come in handy. :)
Click to expand...

Hello, after several years, one of my TM100's now has a broken pin-holding piece as well. I'd like to perform your fix using brass parts; do you happen to have any images of the fix?
 
I'll see if I can find the drive in question. AFAIK, I didn't take any photos because few on this list have interest in metalworking. Heck, you might be better off finding someone to 3D print a replica.
 
For the moment, I made the fix using 50-lb nylon test line and it seems to be working well. However, I left the metallic latch brace off. The only reason I can think of for that part is to prevent the latch from being depressed to far.

Still, it would be nice if a Tandon enthusiast printed off a few 3D replacement hinges.
 
Someone left the remains of a TM-100-1 with me about a year ago after I used it for parts to repair a couple of TM-100-2s for him.

It has the later model brass axle (replacing the two white color plastic pins), and I think the door latch itself is intact.

PM me if you still need the parts and I'll check to make sure the parts are usable, and we can work something out.

Michael
 
atod said:
Hi

Has anyone repaired the white pins in this photo? The pin keeps popping out from the black receiver that accepts it. This causes the door latch to not work.

Wondering if anyone has a workaround for these drives.

Thanks



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Click to expand...

I've had success with JBweld.
(high solids epoxy for non US folks.)

I have 6 TM-100 series drives and all of them have broken.
 
Chuck(G) said:
I'll see if I can find the drive in question. AFAIK, I didn't take any photos because few on this list have interest in metalworking. Heck, you might be better off finding someone to 3D print a replica.
Click to expand...

Well someone has :)
Thanks to our friends on the Stardot forum:

https://stardot.org.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=45&p=230615

with link to:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3135233

Also needs a short brass rod. Not sure of this fits 100% of TM100s but worth a try.

Regards,
John
 
Yes,
I just uploaded the Ver 3 files, which allow the bridge material in the holes to be punched out easier. That prevents
the holes from being mis-drilled.

The replacement hinge part should work on any Tandon TM-100.

Larry
 
Luckily I haven't needed this yet, but just wanted to say that I really appreciate you taking the time to make it since I probably will eventually, and I have friends in the retro community that also have 3d printers and we're excited to have people design these parts.
 
ldkraemer said:
Yes,
I just uploaded the Ver 3 files, which allow the bridge material in the holes to be punched out easier. That prevents
the holes from being mis-drilled.

The replacement hinge part should work on any Tandon TM-100.

Larry
Click to expand...

Ok Larry, you get my vote for "product of the year, 2019!" Just what I needed to fix a Tandon drive used with my Vector 3. Now my drive door is as good (or better) than new. I also finally got to use the 3D printer my kids gave me for xmas a couple of years ago for something useful.

Thanks for the great work!

Mike
 
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