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This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

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Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

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New user moderation

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Other suggestions
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Do you know where to find this Keyboard? Pics

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    #31
    I wasn't thinking of it as an exact replacement, more a place to get the right keyswitches from.
    Legacy Computers and Parts

    Sales of, parts for, and repairs to, Vintage and Legacy computers.

    Comment


      #32
      Originally posted by Druid6900 View Post
      I wasn't thinking of it as an exact replacement, more a place to get the right keyswitches from.
      Ok. From looking at the Model 1, it looks more like the ADM then the Atari 800 keyboard does. The Atari 800 keyswitch yellow parts are slightly higher and need to be shaved down.

      Comment


        #33
        I finished replacing three keyswitches (hole saw method) and soldered all the leads to each terminal that broke due to corrosion. All the switches check out ok on/off during continuity test.

        I was going to solder the keyboard back to the motherboard and then came disappointment. I would need all the stars aligned just right for these new leads to all slide into the PC board holes at once. The original keyboard had thick terminal leads that were probably bent to specification so they were always aligned. My new leads bend easily and are all over the place.

        Does anyone have suggestions for fixing this? I'm thinking of using wire wrap between the keyboard and the top side PC board. Then tuck it under the keyboard hoping it doesn't present a clearance problem. Alternatively, routing all the wire wrap to the bottom for maybe more clearance. This would essentially be connecting the keyboard through wire. Perhaps I should be using different wire then wire wrap?

        Alternatively, using thin gauge bare wire (28 AWG?), maybe in 14" lengths soldered to each terminal. Then pull the wire through the hole, tighten the slack and solder.

        Any ideas appreciated


        Last edited by atod; July 20, 2011, 08:35 PM.

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          #34
          Originally posted by atod View Post
          Alternatively, using thin gauge bare wire (28 AWG?), maybe in 14" lengths soldered to each terminal. Then pull the wire through the hole, tighten the slack and solder.
          This one. It's what I've had to do when replacing the base on a picture tube. Fortunately, you should only have to do the three switches you replaced, as the factory ones should be fairly easy to align.

          But, I wouldn't solder the keyboard on just yet. Get the terminal's logic board working, and verify that all the key positions work (jumper it with a little bit of wire, see if the key registers), that way you know all the tracks are good and nothing else was damaged. You don't want to have to take the keyboard off again to fix a trace underneath it.

          -Ian

          Comment


            #35
            Originally posted by RetroHacker_ View Post
            This one. It's what I've had to do when replacing the base on a picture tube. Fortunately, you should only have to do the three switches you replaced, as the factory ones should be fairly easy to align.

            But, I wouldn't solder the keyboard on just yet. Get the terminal's logic board working, and verify that all the key positions work (jumper it with a little bit of wire, see if the key registers), that way you know all the tracks are good and nothing else was damaged. You don't want to have to take the keyboard off again to fix a trace underneath it.
            Thanks Ian. Actually, about 80% of the terminals broke due to corrosion. The polyvinyl adhesive leaked all under the keyboard and probably sat there for over a decade. So almost all the terminals will have long bare wire hanging from them. It's going to be daunting figuring out which wire goes into which component hole but I think it can be done.

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              #36
              Originally posted by atod View Post
              So almost all the terminals will have long bare wire hanging from them.
              You also need to be really careful that when you solder your extended leads to the board, you don't simultaneously unsolder them from the keyswitch from the heat. Be sure your lengthened terminals are very securely soldered/crimped onto what's left of the old terminals, and to solder quickly to the board.

              -Ian

              Comment


                #37
                Originally posted by RetroHacker_ View Post
                You also need to be really careful that when you solder your extended leads to the board, you don't simultaneously unsolder them from the keyswitch from the heat. Be sure your lengthened terminals are very securely soldered/crimped onto what's left of the old terminals, and to solder quickly to the board.

                -Ian
                Yeah, I validated that, but now I have to do it all again using wire.

                Comment

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