Announcement

Collapse

Forum Rules and Etiquette

Our mission ...

This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.


Rule 1: Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.


Rule 2: Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.



Rule 3: Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.


Rule 4: "PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.


Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.


Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.


New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.


Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
See more
See less

PT Helios II cosmetic restoration is coming along....

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    PT Helios II cosmetic restoration is coming along....

    Well I finished the chassis repaint and repair. I actually had the whole thing done, but I wasn't happy with the front panel, it was in bad shape before the restore with gouges and scratches some of which even spot repaired wasn't looking good in primer, so I chemically stripped it down to the bare aluminum and special epoxy made for aluminum repair skim coated all the areas of concern, shaped and then resprayed it back in original white primer. We are expecting some rain on the east coast so I may not be able to do a final sand on the primer and spray into black with splatter coat till next week.

    I also replaced the broken connectors on the controller cards. I found an exact match back in May at Excess Solutions in Milpitas, that place is amazing. The match is perfect that I only changed the one on each card.

    Anyway... here are some pics in progress, and also a pic of the resprayed Sol-20. Figured since I had the gun out anyway and I bought a nice new on the air regulator for my HVLP sprayer to make doing the splatter coat easier, when I did the Apple II last time I wasted a lot of paint and cardboard getting the pattern right each time I did a layer of splatter....

    after the paint hardens up a bit, I'll wax everything to protect it. I decided not to use two part paint because of cleanup...

    IMG_0155.jpgIMG_0171.jpgIMG_0172.jpgIMG_0210.jpgIMG_0209.jpg

    Cheers,
    Corey
    Last edited by Corey986; July 2, 2014, 02:51 AM.

    #2
    Great work so far! I'd like to learn more about the "splatter" coat. Is that a special nozzle on the spray gun? Special paint? Just a technique? I haven't even considered painting anything because of that splatter finish. I do have to paint a NeXT Cube but it doesn't have a splatter coat. I have a Commodore 4040 drive who's paint is coming off as I clean it so that might be a good candidate.
    Maintainer of http://vintagecomputer.ca

    Comment


      #3
      Splatter coat has to do with constant low pressure. You turn down the air to the gun till it splatters on top of the painted surface. You do have to make sure you are thinned just right and use a good quality paint. I test the pattern on cardboard, lots and lots of cardboard and adjusting till the pattern matches the original. I take pictures of the original or have a sample near by for comparison.

      Each MFR has a different pattern.

      PT for example on the SOL-20 is a tight small pattern done in one direction then another while the piece is on the side. The Helios is a larger splatter pattern done in two steps one large and one small. The small and large merge to make a weird kind of spatter.

      Apple the splatter coat depends on the vintage. The earlier the II, the bigger the spatter size, but still done in two phase like the Helios.

      IBM PCs are the easiest. It seems they are very similar to a car trunk. I have had some success using trunk splatter, waiting a week to cure and overcoating...

      Cheers,
      Corey

      Comment


        #4
        Wow -- impressive work! My cosmetic "restoration" tools consist of compressed air and a damp rag

        Mike

        Comment


          #5
          Is that the original Sol-20 paper badge?
          retro computing at: www.neoncluster.com ....is dead

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Nama View Post
            Is that the original Sol-20 paper badge?
            I have the original one, but this is a modified version of the one from your website. The size didn't match the original so I had to tweak it. Then I had it printed up on a die sublimation printer on magazine paper like the original. I guess I could have used an industrial inkjet, but this is indistinguishable from the original except it isn't faded.

            Cheers,
            Corey
            Last edited by Corey986; July 2, 2014, 04:07 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              Actually I had no idea if it was original or not. It just looked really clean.
              After drawing the artwork, I never actually printed it....glad it works...looks great with your new paint job

              Phil
              retro computing at: www.neoncluster.com ....is dead

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Corey986 View Post
                I have the original one, but this is a modified version of the one from your website. The size didn't match the original so I had to tweak it.
                Corey, can you provide that file somewhere? I might need a copy and it's good to get it while it's readily available. I have another Sol-20 with a different name badge coming (I hope). Not sure if I want to change it but it's an option I'd like.

                Oddly enough, one of the manuals that's coming with that acquisition is an original PTDOS manual. There's no Helios II there though. It's not acquired from the original owner so I'm not sure why it's there. Unfortunately, the systems will come with no diskettes. I'll save the details of this acquisition for another thread IF it arrives. Apparently, UPS lost it yesterday. The package is marked "Delivered"... but not to me
                Maintainer of http://vintagecomputer.ca

                Comment


                  #9
                  It's not surprising that there is a PTDOS manual and no drive. By now every Helios II system either has had it's drives replaced with non-Persci or they have been completely rebuilt or thrown away. Also if the drives are shipped wrong or dropped they are destroyed as they have a glass voice coil setup and an incandescent lamp that should have failed by now. They are also very very sensitive to alignment.

                  There is only one person I'm aware of who knows how to replace or repack every bearing and has had a limited amount replacement parts including gears recreated, the number of working units I know of can be counted on a little more than 1 hand. He completely rebuilt my drive set.

                  As for the Logo strip, I'll send it to Nama later and he can host it since they are based on his work. BTW: the earlier units had the P swirl and the later units had just processor technology.

                  Cheers,
                  Corey

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks Corey,
                    I have updated my Sol-20 logo file with the feedback from Corey. Seems my original was a few millimetres too short and made for a bad fit.
                    The revised file can be found by following the FTP link on this page:

                    http://www.neoncluster.com/projects-...faceplate.html
                    retro computing at: www.neoncluster.com ....is dead

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks guys. I grabbed a copy. This is timely for me because I just acquired another Sol-20 (purely by luck) with a custom name plate. Not sure if I'll keep it or replace it.
                      Maintainer of http://vintagecomputer.ca

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Started to reassemble the drive, supply and case. No front panel yet...

                        You can see in the attached pics the single Persci drive with two disk slots. It shares a common motor, but has a head for each drive. This is one thing that makes the Helios really cool to watch when doing a disk copy with the cover off.

                        Also attached is a picture of one of the controller cards. Can you tell which cable connector on the card isn't original. The replacement I found was exact...

                        Cheers,
                        Corey
                        Attached Files

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Front panel painted and splattered. Now need to wait a few days to harden up so I can buff it out and reassemble the whole thing.

                          image.jpg

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Impressive. Would you consider posting a little video on the technique? It looks great.
                            Maintainer of http://vintagecomputer.ca

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I would like at some point to make a video of it, but a video of spray painting isn't so easy. First I don't want to ruin the camera because of any paint mist in the air. Second, to do it right I'd need a cameraman as I don't hang the piece as would have been done in the factory or in a paint shop, it put it on a card board box and move around the piece. It's more about not wanting to paint my walls and just wanting to paint the piece. Makes it a bit harder to do because you need to keep the angle of the gun much more consistent. The camera man would need a paint mask. I only have one and they are about $25-50 dollars. I don't use a cheap mask, but one made for spraying with an HVLP gun.

                              On a good note: my $26 on sale at harbor freight HVLP touchup gun works much better to do a splatter coat than my big gun... With the big gun I need to do two coats of different sizes to get the effect, with the small gun I can adjust the air pressure a bit easier with my finger as I go around.

                              Cheers,
                              Corey

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X