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I'm finally done fixing my T1000

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    I'm finally done fixing my T1000

    We'll see if I attached the pictures properly on the new forum!

    I had to replace the bad power supply with a Mean Well RT85B and I had to fix the optical sensors on the floppy drive.

    I added a lo-tech 1MB board, 2MB EMS board, glitchworks XTIDE, and a GoTek in the drive B: position. I used a CNC to cut a hole on the left for a Yellow HDD LED and on the right for a toggle switch that selects which drive is drive A: and which is drive B:. It is tough to see in the picture because it is all black, but it turned out great.

    The CM-4 that came with it does not have a very good dot pitch, but I adjusted the focus carefully on it and it is much better than when it arrived.
    Attached Files

    Looks really good I like the a/b drive switch idea, that works on the fly I bet...


      Thanks, it does work on the fly. I was hoping I could use a standard DPDT switch if at least one side of the jumpers was in common on both the floppy and the GoTek and it was. The GoTek's ability to work with the T1000's low denstity floppy controller at 250kbits and yet have 255 cylinder images (2.25MB) is fantastic for moving files on or off it.

      My only gripe is that it runs the motor of the floppy when accessing the GoTek and because the T1000 is only 4.77 MHz, it is often accessing and not accessing both starting and stopping the drive motor again and again. it seems crazy to me that they considered it a valid tradeoff to let all the floppy motor spin and didn't have a select on the drive itself that is combined with the motor signal to decide whether it should spin or not.


        Interesting, I was thinking you'd be switching the floppy drive select lines, but you're toggling the drive 0/1 jumpers on the drives themselves? I don't think the B: drive should be spinning when accessing the A: drive; you might wnat to check to make sure your motor select jumpers or w/e on the Gotek are set properly. I struggled with that for some time when I was making a replacement floppy adapter for Trackstar boards, eventually I got it sorted out.


          Correct, I'm swapping the DS0/DS1 jumpers essentially with the swtich. The Tandy 1000 does not have the floppy twist so A: and B: share a single motor line. I'm tempted to try to monitor the motor and drive select signal to see if it would be okay to bypass the motor signal and make it only active IF the drive signal is active.


            Originally posted by alank2 View Post
            Correct, I'm swapping the DS0/DS1 jumpers essentially with the swtich. The Tandy 1000 does not have the floppy twist so A: and B: share a single motor line. I'm tempted to try to monitor the motor and drive select signal to see if it would be okay to bypass the motor signal and make it only active IF the drive signal is active.
            I still don't think your floppy should be spinning if the other drive is being read. I had the same problem on my TL (has no cable twist) and it was resolved (I think) by setting a jumper on my Teac 55b floppy drive:


            In my case I think it was the ML jumper; at first it was off, which meant motor would spin whenever motor signal was issued (for either drive.) I jumpered it and I _THINK_ that caused it to only spin when motor signal was active AND floppy was in-use (LED on).

            I will take a look at my jumper settings when I get a chance.


              I'll have to open it up and look at the jumpers again to see which ones it has - thanks!


                None of the jumpers are ML - this is a model 54, maybe it doesn't have this option. I looked through the maintenance manual for it and didn't see anything about it either.


                  is the Teac 54 a single-sided 180kb floppy drive?


                    It is a double sided 360K drive.