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DS1216E Pinout - want to try and make a replacement

acadiel

Experienced Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2009
Messages
287
DS1216 chips (the DIP16) version are all over the place and seem to be readily available. I was looking at this, and wondering why nobody has made a quick PCB adapter for it (DIP28 socket on top, and pins on bottom) so we can adapt to a DS1216E.

Looking at the pinouts on the DIP16, and how they relate to the DIP28, I'm still missing some information (I don't have a unit to do this testing on, so have been going by the reference on this page and Maxim's data sheet https://pdfserv.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS1216-DS1216H.pdf.

Code:
DS1216 PIN/DESC     DIP28 PIN/DESC
1 X1                         UNKNOWN, goes to pad
2 X2                         UNKNOWN, goes to pad
3 WE*                      PIN 8, WE*
4 BAT1                     n/c - goes to +3V battery
5 GND                      PIN 14, GND
6 D                          PIN 10, A0
7 Q                          PIN 11, DQ0
8 GND                      PIN 14, GND
9 ROM/RAM*            UNKNOWN, goes to pad
10 CE0*                   PIN 20, CE0*
11 CE1*                   UNKNOWN, goes to pad
12 OE*                     PIN 22, OE*
13 RST*                   PIN 1, RST*
14 BAT2                   n/c - goes to +3V battery
15 Vcc0                   UNKNOWN, goes to pad
16 Vcc1                    PIN 28, VCC

So, five unknowns and these to potentially pick from on the DIP28:
Pin 26: VccB
Pin 27: WE* (but that looked already used?)

Anyone want to help contribute and correct? I'm in a bit of a brain fog, so I really need some help to double check these, especially if you have one of these and can meter out the pins.

Thanks!
 
DS1216 chips (the DIP16) version are all over the place and seem to be readily available. I was looking at this, and wondering why nobody has made a quick PCB adapter for it (DIP28 socket on top, and pins on bottom) so we can adapt to a DS1216E.

Hi acadiel, already done using an SMD DS1215. ATM I've designed a standard 28 pin version that works well in a Model II, 2 different versions for the 4P that allow the use of either the standard rom/2532 or a 2732 without any mods to the computer and one for the System 80 that doesn't work:( haven't had time to fix that one yet. Duane Saylor's original software modified to suit.
 

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Sweet! Will this work in the 1000 series? Are they for sale anywhere?
 
Working on a SmartWatch replacement here using a supercap so there's no battery to replace. It also uses Batten & Allen leadframe pins so it won't destroy single-wipe sockets. Here's the GW-1244-1, which is for the NVRAM version of the SmartWatch:

NIbsZDI.jpg


0tOZISS.jpg


Full writeup here:

http://www.glitchwrks.com/2018/03/17/gw-1244-1

Currently working on a time-sensitive project for VCF East, this one shouldn't be too hard to knock out once VCF East is done though.

Henry Courbis has a SmartWatch replacement sold as a NoSlotClock on Reactive Micro, but I don't know if he's selling just the bare boards.
 
I have found about 75% success with one of the sellers on ebay, and they are reasonable on best offers.

But I like that glitch works item....looks like a good alternative if you have an open ROM socket.
 
Sweet! Will this work in the 1000 series? Are they for sale anywhere?

The 28 pin version is pin for pin the same as the original DS1216E so in theory it should work on a 1000 but as yet untested.
Working perfectly on my Model II and two 4Ps.
Just had a peek in the cave, I still have a few of the 4P boards but I don't have any more of the 28 pin boards in stock. SMD DS1215s are no problem but unless I get a few orders I wont be ordering any more boards - don't want to get stuck with a lot of stuff collecting dust.
 
I wont be ordering any more boards - don't want to get stuck with a lot of stuff collecting dust.

Hi Gazza.

Please count me in for one Model 12 board.:)
Your Model II version works fine.
 
Hi Gazza.

Please count me in for one Model 12 board.:)
Your Model II version works fine.

Hi Hans
Another BIG Tandy, how many of these things do you have?;)
OK that's' one plus another 4 Model IIs I haven't even looked at yet.
BTW are you using any extra ram cards in your big Tandys?
Reason is, the Model II Smartwatch software has to fiddle with port 0FFH and hoping it's not causing any problems.
Gazza
 
Hi Gazza.

Another BIG Tandy, how many of these things do you have?

I can't compete with you :) (4 - 2)

I have one extra memory board in the Model II, but no problems with the Gazzawatch.
The Model 12 has no extra memory board, but the extra RAM bank on the motherboard can de paginated, so
this could cause a problem.
 
I have found about 75% success with one of the sellers on ebay, and they are reasonable on best offers.

But I like that glitch works item....looks like a good alternative if you have an open ROM socket.

I ordered a few DS1244 modules to dissect for my replacement board from eBay. The ones I ordered were date stamped 2015, but after taking them apart, I found them to be much older with dead batteries. Clearly relabels!

The SmartWatch replacement I'm working on will have a DIP ROM socket on top, so it'll work just like the original SmartWatch/NoSlotClock. The only difference is, it'll use a DS1315 (newer version of the IC) and a supercapacitor, which will provide around 2000 hours of power-off timekeeping, but recharges almost instantly when powered on and will likely never need replaced.
 
Hi Gazza.

I can't compete with you :) (4 - 2)

I have one extra memory board in the Model II, but no problems with the Gazzawatch.
The Model 12 has no extra memory board, but the extra RAM bank on the motherboard can de paginated, so
this could cause a problem.


But they ain't mine, I'm just the silly bunny that got stuck with them :wallbang:
and Dusty got one of the keyboards.
So that's one keyboard I don't have to repair :D:D:D:D:D:bigparty:

The software keeps an eye on port 0FFH so I'm hoping it wont cause any probs.
 
Working on a SmartWatch replacement here using a supercap so there's no battery to replace. It also uses Batten & Allen leadframe pins so it won't destroy single-wipe sockets. Here's the GW-1244-1, which is for the NVRAM version of the SmartWatch:
Full writeup here:

http://www.glitchwrks.com/2018/03/17/gw-1244-1

Currently working on a time-sensitive project for VCF East, this one shouldn't be too hard to knock out once VCF East is done though.

Henry Courbis has a SmartWatch replacement sold as a NoSlotClock on Reactive Micro, but I don't know if he's selling just the bare boards.

Drool.... please keep us in the loop when these are order able. My Tandy 1000SL one can set the time, but doesn't seem to 'tick' when it's off. So it gets the time from the last time it was set. I have another one en-route from China, but I'm 0-2 for working ones.

Edit: I was looking at Maxim's sheets, and there was an A-E variant, with different connections for each. I think the one for us was the E variant, which is what I've been ordering. I'm assuming yours might be compatible with the E variant? What are the differences between the 1216's and the 1244s?
 
Last edited:
The 1244 is a NVRAM potted module, the 1216s have a socket for either a ROM or a SRAM, depending on the revision. They both use compatible Phantom RTC chips -- the 1216 uses a through-hole version, while the 1244 is surface mount (you can see it in the article I linked, I dissected a DS1244 from China). Obviously there's no reason to make the SRAM versions with my GW-1244-1, so I'll be focusing on the ROM versions. I think I can make a single board with one or more configuration jumpers to select the ROM size/type. In any case, I'll definitely be targeting the -E variant, as my Ampro LittleBoard Z80 system uses the -E variant.
 
Hi Gazza.

Please count me in for one Model 12 board.:)
Your Model II version works fine.

Hans, if you still want one for the Model 12 let me know, that plus the 4 Model IIs is enough to run off one more batch of boards.
I'm interested to see how it runs on the Model 12 - if at all;)
 
Hans, if you still want one for the Model 12 let me know, that plus the 4 Model IIs is enough to run off one more batch of boards.
I'm interested to see how it runs on the Model 12 - if at all;)

Hi Gazza.

Yes, I'am sure.
I want to try the gazza watch on my Model 12.
I had to replace the battery holder on the Model II version as a 2032 didn't fit in it. The pressure on the spring wasn't enough to keep it in place.
Let me know the total costs and I'll pay you with paypal.
 
I'd be interested in three for Model II/12/16B/6000 systems, three for Model 4GA/4D systems and two for Model 4P systems if you are making these.
 
I'd be interested in three for Model II/12/16B/6000 systems, three for Model 4GA/4D systems and two for Model 4P systems if you are making these.

I still have a few boards for the 4Ps, both 2532 and 2732 and these are plug and play;) with no mods required to the computer but I'm out of the 28 pin boards. I want to make a couple of small changes and then I'll be sending the gerbers this week, so with a bit of luck they should be here in a couple of weeks. I've never tried these on a Model IV mainly because I don't have access to one but if the original Dallas Smartwatch worked OK then the 28 pin version should work OK.
cheers
Gazza
 
I still have a few boards for the 4Ps, both 2532 and 2732 and these are plug and play;) with no mods required to the computer but I'm out of the 28 pin boards. I want to make a couple of small changes and then I'll be sending the gerbers this week, so with a bit of luck they should be here in a couple of weeks. I've never tried these on a Model IV mainly because I don't have access to one but if the original Dallas Smartwatch worked OK then the 28 pin version should work OK.
cheers
Gazza

Okay, I have 2532s in my 4Ps (modified boot ROMs). Let me know when the new ones are available.
 
I finally got a DS1216-E from eBay that actually showed like 3.2 volts on both of the pins and ground. Plugged it into the 1000 SL/E and it worked. Anyone want the old E version that was dead to take apart?

I still need one for my Tandy 1000 though. :)
 
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