Forum Rules and Etiquette

Our mission ...

This forum is part of our mission to promote the preservation of vintage computers through education and outreach. (In real life we also run events and have a museum.) We encourage you to join us, participate, share your knowledge, and enjoy.

This forum has been around in this format for over 15 years. These rules and guidelines help us maintain a healthy and active community, and we moderate the forum to keep things on track. Please familiarize yourself with these rules and guidelines.

Rule 1: Remain civil and respectful

There are several hundred people who actively participate here. People come from all different backgrounds and will have different ways of seeing things. You will not agree with everything you read here. Back-and-forth discussions are fine but do not cross the line into rude or disrespectful behavior.

Conduct yourself as you would at any other place where people come together in person to discuss their hobby. If you wouldn't say something to somebody in person, then you probably should not be writing it here.

This should be obvious but, just in case: profanity, threats, slurs against any group (sexual, racial, gender, etc.) will not be tolerated.

Rule 2: Stay close to the original topic being discussed
  • If you are starting a new thread choose a reasonable sub-forum to start your thread. (If you choose incorrectly don't worry, we can fix that.)
  • If you are responding to a thread, stay on topic - the original poster was trying to achieve something. You can always start a new thread instead of potentially "hijacking" an existing thread.

Rule 3: Contribute something meaningful

To put things in engineering terms, we value a high signal to noise ratio. Coming here should not be a waste of time.
  • This is not a chat room. If you are taking less than 30 seconds to make a post then you are probably doing something wrong. A post should be on topic, clear, and contribute something meaningful to the discussion. If people read your posts and feel that their time as been wasted, they will stop reading your posts. Worse yet, they will stop visiting and we'll lose their experience and contributions.
  • Do not bump threads.
  • Do not "necro-post" unless you are following up to a specific person on a specific thread. And even then, that person may have moved on. Just start a new thread for your related topic.
  • Use the Private Message system for posts that are targeted at a specific person.

Rule 4: "PM Sent!" messages (or, how to use the Private Message system)

This forum has a private message feature that we want people to use for messages that are not of general interest to other members.

In short, if you are going to reply to a thread and that reply is targeted to a specific individual and not of interest to anybody else (either now or in the future) then send a private message instead.

Here are some obvious examples of when you should not reply to a thread and use the PM system instead:
  • "PM Sent!": Do not tell the rest of us that you sent a PM ... the forum software will tell the other person that they have a PM waiting.
  • "How much is shipping to ....": This is a very specific and directed question that is not of interest to anybody else.

Why do we have this policy? Sending a "PM Sent!" type message basically wastes everybody else's time by making them having to scroll past a post in a thread that looks to be updated, when the update is not meaningful. And the person you are sending the PM to will be notified by the forum software that they have a message waiting for them. Look up at the top near the right edge where it says 'Notifications' ... if you have a PM waiting, it will tell you there.

Rule 5: Copyright and other legal issues

We are here to discuss vintage computing, so discussing software, books, and other intellectual property that is on-topic is fine. We don't want people using these forums to discuss or enable copyright violations or other things that are against the law; whether you agree with the law or not is irrelevant. Do not use our resources for something that is legally or morally questionable.

Our discussions here generally fall under "fair use." Telling people how to pirate a software title is an example of something that is not allowable here.

Reporting problematic posts

If you see spam, a wildly off-topic post, or something abusive or illegal please report the thread by clicking on the "Report Post" icon. (It looks like an exclamation point in a triangle and it is available under every post.) This send a notification to all of the moderators, so somebody will see it and deal with it.

If you are unsure you may consider sending a private message to a moderator instead.

New user moderation

New users are directly moderated so that we can weed spammers out early. This means that for your first 10 posts you will have some delay before they are seen. We understand this can be disruptive to the flow of conversation and we try to keep up with our new user moderation duties to avoid undue inconvenience. Please do not make duplicate posts, extra posts to bump your post count, or ask the moderators to expedite this process; 10 moderated posts will go by quickly.

New users also have a smaller personal message inbox limit and are rate limited when sending PMs to other users.

Other suggestions
  • Use Google, books, or other definitive sources. There is a lot of information out there.
  • Don't make people guess at what you are trying to say; we are not mind readers. Be clear and concise.
  • Spelling and grammar are not rated, but they do make a post easier to read.
See more
See less

Slot 8 Support Daughterboard for XT-IDE

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Very cool, as always, Glitch! I'll definitely buy a kit, when you complete this.

    - Alex


      Originally posted by glitch View Post
      ... Rev 1 boards will as well, if you've got one that has all of the edge fingers populated -- the ones I've got don't...
      My Rev 1 Boards don't either, IIRC it was only the very early prototype Rev 1 boards that had all the fingers and the unused fingers got removed a bit later on in the stage, before the main production run.

      Nice looking mod


        Didn't have time to dig out the XT this weekend, should be able to get it tested next weekend. Glad to see people are interested in it
        Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


          Finally had time to test, it works fine with the rev 3 boards! I'll put together a rev 2 test tonight or tomorrow evening and test with the serial port.
          Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


            Works with the Rev 2 board, and the wiring is even cleaner than the Rev 3 board! It's like I meant it to work like that I'll post pictures and a full write-up later.

            Since I'm not sure how much interest there's going to be in these boards, if you're interested in one, would you be OK with buying a prototype run board? They work fine, and are high-quality OSH Park Made in the USA items.
            Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


              I'd be more than happy with a prototype board. Put me down for one and let me know how to pay for it.


                Pics of the mod installed on a Rev 2 card:

                The wiring is super-simple:

                The Rev 2 mod, as mentioned, works with all functionality including the serial port. I'll be doing a writeup on the install process and getting the files up to GitHub soonish. As you can see, this board got fitted with the Slot 8 Support board using silkscreen. I think I like the solder mask relief version better!
                Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


                  Looks great! Thanks for all your hard work!



                    I've got one prototype board left -- if more than one person wants one, I'll put a panel together sooner rather than later, but I've got some other projects on the board if there's no immediate demand for more of these.

                    Pricing as follows:

                    Bare board $2
                    Parts kit $3
                    Board + parts kit $5
                    Assembled unit $10

                    Ships in a bubble mailer, so even overseas shipping should be pretty cheap. I'll be working on a writeup and getting the design files on GitHub so if you'd like to just run your own you will be able to do that soon. As mentioned it's around $5 to get the boards made from OSH Park.

                    The two people who ordered prototype boards will be getting theirs shipped out today, if you happen to get your boards before my writeup is done, the only thing not covered by the pictures is that it helps to remove the solder from the back of the board on the EEPROM socket pins that the mod board connects to. Not required but it will help the mod board sit flat against the XT-IDE board. You can use solder wick or a solder sucker, you don't need to get the solder out of the XT-IDE board's holes, just get it flat.

                    The prototype boards do not have the mounting holes scored, so if you want half-pads you'll need to cut the board with sharp dikes or use a bastard file on them. Remember not to breathe dust from filing, these are FR4 boards and fiberglass dust is bad for you! A standard NIOSH paper face mask is fine if you're filing on them inside, or just go slow and use only down strokes on the file. Half-pads are not necessary for installation, but it makes it easier.
                    Last edited by glitch; November 7, 2016, 07:30 AM.
                    Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


                      As requested by Skydivingirl: if you're not using K3 as a power header, you can modify it to be a Slot 8 enable/disable jumper. I don't know what, if anything, uses K3. Pics:

                      This is the original non-disableable modification

                      This is jumper/header K3. It can provide +5V on a 3-pin header. Pin 1 (square pad with the box around it) is connected to +5V and is the end of the line for the trace. We're going to cut the trace between K3, pin 1 and P9, pin 1

                      I like to cut traces so that I can remove the middle of the trace -- that was you really *know* it's cut!

                      Cut off K3 pin 3 (nearest to the IDE header) so that we don't accidentally jump /CARDSEL to ground, that would cause bus conflicts.

                      Use K3 pins 1 and 2 as the jumper, just route TP1 to K3 pin 1, and K3 pin 2 down to /CARDSEL on the edge connector. Now, placing a jumper on the two remaining pins of K3 will enable Slot 8 Support!
                      Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


                        Thanks so much for your efforts on this! I'll be sure to post a picture of my card once I do the mod.



                          Finally had time to do writeups:

                          Building + rev 3 install:
                          Rev 2 install + K3 hack:

                          I still have one or two of the prototype boards left, if anyone wants a kit or assembled mod board. I'll be ordering more in the near future, so they're available for the VCF East XT-IDE workshop.

                          Files haven't been uploaded to GitHub just yet, I need to go through them, should be up within an hour or so.
                          Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


                            I'm calling this one finished! Here's the final design:

                            I ran it at OSH Park, castellated holes came out fine, and the solder mask relief for R1 is now fixed. There's a blank-out bottom solder mask layer included in the Gerbers, so that you can run it at board houses that do everything double-sided -- without it, you end up with the back totally covered in solder mask, which gets in the through holes.

                            I've got three of these new boards, if anyone needs them. I'll probably panelize 20 or 30 and run them, seems like that is probably a pretty good supply, considering the demand is low.

                            EDIT: Here's the GitHub repo with all of the relevant info: KiCad project, Gerbers (including a ready-to-go ZIP file), BOM, et c.:

                            Last edited by glitch; February 21, 2017, 08:52 AM.
                            Check out The Glitch Works | My Retro Projects | Vintage Computer Services | Glitch Works Tindie Store -- Vintage Computer Kits and More


                              I'll pick up one more from you.