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In the market for my first hot air rework setup

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    #16
    I've been pondering a rework station for years. I never should have clicked that link. *sigh*

    g.
    Proud owner of 80-0007
    http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by VERAULT View Post
      I hear you Lee but the chineseum was really the determining factor. I bought a Chinese desoldering gun before my hakko fr300.. lasted 2 weeks. sometimes its just not worth the agrivation.
      Same thing happened to me with desoldering guns, actually, and I ended up with a hakko too. This soldering/hot air station has been good though. Although I haven't used the hot air side nearly as much as the soldering side.
      -- Lee

      If you get super-bored, try muh crappy Odysee channel: Old Computer Fun!

      Looking For: QBus SCSI Controller, Type 4 HDC for Tandy II/12/16/6000, Mac IIci drive sled, PC-era Tandy stuff, Old Unix Stuff, Serial Terminals (HP and DG in particular)

      Comment


        #18
        My next question is what should I use as a heat shiled (to protect nearby components and focus the heat on the IC I am removing). I have some thin gauge alluminum and stainless sheet metal squares. Should I just make a few custom shields for reuse? Would alluminum be more beneficial or less than stainless?

        Comment


          #19
          Not sure what the proper method is, but I use aluminum foil with a cutout for the chip I plan on heating.

          Lead free solder really needs a lot of heat to remove a chip and that heat will boil off a capacitor if you don't protect it.
          What I collect: 68K/Early PPC Mac, DOS/Win 3.1 era machines, Amiga/ST, C64/128
          Nubus/ISA/VLB/MCA/EISA cards of all types
          Boxed apps and games for the above systems
          Analog video capture cards/software and complete systems

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Unknown_K View Post
            Not sure what the proper method is, but I use aluminum foil with a cutout for the chip I plan on heating.

            Lead free solder really needs a lot of heat to remove a chip and that heat will boil off a capacitor if you don't protect it.
            Yet another reason to avoid that junk at all costs. I absolutely *despise* working on anything that's had that ROHS crap applied.

            g.
            Proud owner of 80-0007
            http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.

            Comment


              #21
              I think he is just referring to the trouble of having to re-work lead free solder. Wasnt there a push for that stuff for a while before they went back to alloy? I know I have have plenty of frustration desolderign with it. I use lead based solder myself of course. I assume most of us do.

              Comment


                #22
                As far as I know, everything made after some magic date is literally required to use ROHS solder.

                g.
                Proud owner of 80-0007
                http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.

                Comment


                  #23
                  is that a sarcastic comment? I have done plenty of repairs on modern stuff with lead based solder. Requirements are more like "guidelines".

                  Comment


                    #24
                    I wasn't clear. The *original* solder is the ROHS junk, not the stuff used to repair it.

                    g.
                    Proud owner of 80-0007
                    http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Well I got the hot air station in. Went to try it out today and it makes a huge racket when the hot air is on. Sounds like its coming apart. IF you move the unit while the air is on it sounds even worse. Clearly badly assembled. Filed for a return. Just super... Chineseum garbage.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by VERAULT View Post
                        I think he is just referring to the trouble of having to re-work lead free solder. Wasnt there a push for that stuff for a while before they went back to alloy? I know I have have plenty of frustration desolderign with it. I use lead based solder myself of course. I assume most of us do.
                        I usually add some lead-based solder to that crap before I try to desolder it. :<
                        -- Lee

                        If you get super-bored, try muh crappy Odysee channel: Old Computer Fun!

                        Looking For: QBus SCSI Controller, Type 4 HDC for Tandy II/12/16/6000, Mac IIci drive sled, PC-era Tandy stuff, Old Unix Stuff, Serial Terminals (HP and DG in particular)

                        Comment


                          #27
                          So this return is going to be a huge problem. I can tell by the poorly written and translated emails the seller is chinese. They dont seem to grasp ebay returns or anything I am saying so this will be a long drawn out return until I get the option to drag eBay into it. Just great.

                          Looks like I will need to choose a different rework station from a (hopefully) different buyer. You never can tell with the chinese sellers as alot of them have many different accounts. What a huge pain!

                          Comment


                            #28
                            At this point, you don't have anything to lose by opening the thing up and seeing if it's a simple repair. I haven't taken mine out of the box yet.

                            g.
                            Proud owner of 80-0007
                            http://www.f15sim.com - The only one of its kind.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              yeah i was thinking the same thing this morning.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by VERAULT View Post
                                My next question is what should I use as a heat shiled (to protect nearby components and focus the heat on the IC I am removing). I have some thin gauge alluminum and stainless sheet metal squares. Should I just make a few custom shields for reuse? Would alluminum be more beneficial or less than stainless?
                                I just use a cheap roll of aluminum foil from the store. Tear off some, fold it a few times to get 2-4 layers thick and wrap it around the components you want to protect, works fairly well. You can only reuse it so many times before the heat degrades it and it gets full of flux though.

                                Originally posted by geneb View Post
                                As far as I know, everything made after some magic date is literally required to use ROHS solder.

                                g.
                                It was 2005/2006 from the European ROHS directive that banned lead, cadmium and other heavy metals from consumer products. This is why electronics from 2005 to around 2010 had horrific failure rates, because the industry wasn't prepared and was using whatever they had that didn't have lead in it, which was terrible. Since it overlapped with the capacitor plague, it was that much worse.

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