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Proper Glue for Monitor Case

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    #16
    Okay, I found some solvent glue from a couple years ago when I had to fix a broken Lucite owl. Will this work, pic attached. Or how about the link to J-B clearweld. Will that one work?

    20211112_164707.jpg
    Buy J-B Weld 50112 ClearWeld 5 Minute Set Epoxy Syringe - Clear - 25 ml: Tile Epoxy Adhesives - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

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      #17
      Well, that glue says "medium bodied", which means that it does have dissolved plastics in it. Try a small bit in an inconspicuous place--it would be easier to handle that the pure solvent if it works.
      Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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        #18
        Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
        Well, that glue says "medium bodied", which means that it does have dissolved plastics in it. Try a small bit in an inconspicuous place--it would be easier to handle that the pure solvent if it works.
        Since I only have the one piece to glue back, how would I test it before gluing the piece? My guess is I'd have to try it on the same exact plastic as the broken piece, right?

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          #19
          Surely there's a hidden part of the case where you can apply a bit of this goop to see if it even adheres.
          Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
            Surely there's a hidden part of the case where you can apply a bit of this goop to see if it even adheres.
            I will find a spot on the inside lip of the monitor bezel as I'm not sure if the body plastic is the same.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Tincanalley View Post
              Okay, I found some solvent glue from a couple years ago when I had to fix a broken Lucite owl. Will this work, pic attached. Or how about the link to J-B clearweld. Will that one work?

              20211112_164707.jpg
              That Acrylic glue in the blue tube is not suitable (I have that one in my arsenal of glues, it has other applications) Also, I recommend 24Hr epoxy resin, not 5 min epoxy resin. The 5 minute resin (of any brand I have every tried) never cures nearly as hard as the 24 Hr resin and is also not suited to the task if you want a strong bond. I only use the 5min resin if its possible that I have to undo the bond in the future for some reason.

              But clearly you want to try this out for yourself. If you spend some years experimenting with glues, you will become very familiar with all of them and then be able to select the better one for the task at hand.

              This is the common 24Hr cure resin we use in AU is called Araldite (but avoid the 5min versions), (JB weld will have a similar product):

              https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/27288287...frcectupt=true



              These are its common applications according to Selleys;
              • Load bearing repairs
              • Gluing the head back on your hammer
              • Fixing loose table or chair legs.
              • Bonding solid pieces of Aluminium sheeting
              • Bonding timber on your boat
              • Repairing splits and cracks in Cricket bats
              • Bonding fibreglass sheets
              • Repairing Ski's
              • Fixing Dynabolts and metal rods into concrete

              (We have lots of glued up hammers down here in Australia and the resin works well for gluing up dental work until you can get back to the dentist)

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                #22
                Okay, I give--use the epoxy. My big problem with epoxies and plastics is that it generally requires a specialized formula, not a general-use one to get a good, permanent bond. If this were my project and I was restricted to epoxy, I'd use this stuff. You can find it at many big-box stores locally.
                Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
                  Okay, I give--use the epoxy. My big problem with epoxies and plastics is that it generally requires a specialized formula, not a general-use one to get a good, permanent bond. If this were my project and I was restricted to epoxy, I'd use this stuff. You can find it at many big-box stores locally.
                  That looks very good, similar to Araldite I would expect. Interesting that it can bond Nylon, usually slippery -oily feeling plastics like polypropylene, Nylon etc are incredibly difficult to bond and make really good containers for storing glue in !

                  Though it is fast setting at 20 min, so it might not get quite as hard as a 24 hr resin, but I have never tried this particular product.

                  Most likely this marine grade epoxy is pretty good, but its not in stock and I cannot see the setting time. Usually though marine rated products are a little tougher:


                  https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-19193...929486&sr=8-61
                  Last edited by Hugo Holden; November 14, 2021, 02:39 PM.

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                    #24
                    The commercial epoxies can be quite good. Caseway BA-500 for example, can even bond PTFE. Costs a bit, however.
                    Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post
                      The commercial epoxies can be quite good. Caseway BA-500 for example, can even bond PTFE. Costs a bit, however.
                      Well that looks amazing. If you can glue Teflon together, you could glue two Eels together. I must get some to try it out.

                      Speaking of Eels, I'm not sure if you heard the theory about Electric Eels. If you roll them up in aluminium foil, it shorts them out and they self cook.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by Hugo Holden View Post

                        Well that looks amazing. If you can glue Teflon together, you could glue two Eels together. I must get some to try it out.

                        Speaking of Eels, I'm not sure if you heard the theory about Electric Eels. If you roll them up in aluminium foil, it shorts them out and they self cook.
                        I confess that I've never had the need to glue two eels together. I have had the occasion to use Scotchweld to glue an aluminum bracket to a titanium tube. Heat-cured and it worked very well.

                        You've been watching Big Clive too much, I suspect.
                        Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by Chuck(G) View Post

                          I confess that I've never had the need to glue two eels together. I have had the occasion to use Scotchweld to glue an aluminum bracket to a titanium tube. Heat-cured and it worked very well.

                          You've been watching Big Clive too much, I suspect.
                          An eel was the most slippery thing I could think of, next to Teflon.

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                            #28
                            Whale blubber.
                            Reach me: vcfblackhole _at_ protonmail dot com.

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